So this is something I certainly didn't expect. Pulled the old engine, and the suspension was unweighted for 4 months. Finally dropped the new engine in today, and the suspension is still WAY too high. I measured and it's about 4.5 inches high. Now the trans is still out, but that's nothing compared to the engine. Plus I actually got IN the engine bay on the frame rail, and it only compressed about .5" an inch. I had it unweighted for about a week when I did the big brake swap and front suspension work, and it when it was done, it was barely noticeable that it sat high, and after 20 minutes, it was normal.

......so do I just have to wait???? could the struts somehow have gone bad and locked? ...as I said, I have about .5" of suspension travel that I can actuate with my body weight.

 

ive seen that happen a few times. once the car moves, it will settle back down. of course putting the transmission in will help, but if your able to roll the car back and forth a few feet a couple times, i think you'll see it settle.

 

yup. the wheels are canted in and that geometry is keeping it from settling.

 

I understand the wheels being canted and everything, I'm just surprised to see it be THAT much higher. ....oh, we shall see what happens!

Thanks

 

I rebuilt my motor to a 383 this winter, I lost about 100lbs difference with aluminum heads, lighter intake, no AC. It took about a couple of days for it to settle, but ended up 1" higher in the end. I just finished replacing the springs with Eibach's sportline set. I haven't got it on the ground yet to see the difference.

 

The only real weight differences I have are aluminum heads, which drops weight, and I'm swapping in (but not yet installed) a TKO600 in place of the T5 which will add weight, albeit, more centered than up front.

....it's come down 3/4" inches since yesterday. I've talked to a few of my buddies, and they all seem to think this is normal, due to the camber/geometry, and the fact that they were decompressed for several months. ...which is what you guys are saying too. ......guess we'll see

 

Just to let you know, I installed the Eibach sportline springs in the front and it settled down great. sit's right on top of the front tires now. I kinda like the looks of the rear 1 1/2" higher. A 70's look on a 80's car. Lol I have the rear springs, but haven't installed them yet.

 

Just to update, the car is now about 99% of full weight up front. Haven't rolled it back and forth, but i'm still over 3" higher than I should be. Stood on the frame rails with my body weight and still can't get it to compress. Any chance those shocks just won't recompress?

 

We didn't need that update. You just need to get off your duff and drive it

 

Try turning the wheel from lock to lock a few times.... that should help settle it a bit.

Then you need to roll it back and forth a few times as others have stated.

you have already established that standing on the car isn't helping, so why keep doing it?

 

Yep. the geometry of the front suspension won't allow it to drop until the contact patches for the front tires are allowed to spread farther apart.

If you draw it out on a sheet of paper it will become evident why pretty quickly.

 

I do understand the geometry of the camber, again, I'm just surprised to see this MUCH gap from tire to fender. ...and I appreciate the responses. I'm normally pretty intuitive, but I just can't see how this hasn't settled further, camber or not....BUT....this is my first rodeo with an engine swap, so I'll see what happens. I do appreciate the feedback...makes me feel a little better.

 

Yup, it needs to roll back and forth or turn the wheels L&R several times

 

My car mostly settled driving around the block. Then it continued to change ride height over the next 2 weeks of driving. First it was high, then the front went down really low but was really crooked side to side, then the front rose up higher and became straight, and meanwhile the back continued to slowly sink down. This all happened over the first 2 weeks of driving.


You just have to give it some use and time and not freak out about it. If it needs to be altered later on then it is not difficult. This is really one of the easiest things in comparison to the rest of the engine swap.

 

First drive yesterday! ....car ran well. ....suspension was still up in the air before the ride, but it definitely settled some. Nowhere near all the way, but it did get better. ...I'll give it a few drives and see what it does.

 

I'm no physics major but having been into aircraft my whole life I can tell you one universal common truth between airplanes & cars ;

Gravity ALWAYS wins !

 

Yup...

And it SUCKS too, and it NEVER sleeps.

Remember: gravity is NOT just a good idea, it's the LAW!!!

 

Well I'm rootin for gravity at the moment!! ....Still riding higher than stock!

...and while I've learned to trust my fellow TGOers, I'm STILL uncertain of what could be causing it not to come down.

 

Quote:
[...and while I've learned to trust my fellow TGOers,] Now there's a statement to make a guy wonder.

 

So ....um.....I've solved the problem.



The spring wasn't properly seated in the K member. I've had them out several times, and I can do 'em by myself without a compressor. Just never thought they could be seated wrong. A arm was right, not the K member. Anyhow...now I know. Feel kinda dumb, but figured I'd come clean. LOL.

 

While you didn't need to "come clean", that just shows the integrity of a good man. Good job on fixing the problem.

 

Well I don't mind. If that's the worst thing I do to my car, I'm a happy camper!

 

Glad to hear ya got it figured out.
stuff happens. i've had a few "Ooops" moments too.