Anyone using this set up on a mostly street car? How does the car feel/drive?

Mostly aggressive/spirited street driving style and occasional track use. 90/10 split.

The set up is koni yellows, stock sway bars 34mm/24mm, SBC 350, T5, C5 Z06 wheels/tires. Adjustable LCAs and PHB to be added down the road.

850 to me seems a little stiff for the front does it not given my application? But it's what was recommended. I was thinking an 800 front 175 rear would be more ideal?

 

I cant recall exactly what my global west springs are but i believe they are near that 800/175 range. Rides good, very stiff on sharp bumps with the shocks set stiff

 

I run 1050/250 on my 86 with a lowered panhard bar
I also ran 800/175 on my 92 with a **** ton of suspension work with excellent results

 

The 92 sees a lot if street use? I'm not going to have any crazy mods just lca's and PHB with konis which I know are firm to start off with.

 

Not too stiff or bouncy on the street? I'm leaning toward these rates very much now that I understand the sportline kit rates are around 700 front and 110-170 variable rear. Seems a little soft but the car I drive had oem shocks.

 

No i dont think its too stiff until you hit a major pothole or big bump in the road. Here in PA we have some bad quality roads. Normally the car is fine but any bad road that has a uneven transition you will know it immediately lol but shocks are set stiff on mine and it handles very well despite being on crappy stock size tire and no subframes

This is my 91 z28, daily not the race car in sig

 

GW springs used to be advertised as 850/185 (or maybe 195), and yes, they're really nice, aggressive springs on the road...

 

Not so much anymore, now it just sits in the garage sad and alone....

Unless there is something wrong with the stock control arms and pa hard bar just leave them alone and get the konis and good wheels and tires. Replace the front strut mounts with a good aftermarket bearing type mount and I'm sure you will more than happy. Most aftermarket suspension parts only make the car nosier and ride worse.

 

Only thing wrong with them is bushings need to be swapped out but being lowered I wanted to have some adjustability in the rear to centre the diff and keep things in alignment. Figured bushing money could go towards new gear instead. Also planed on getting the lca relocation brackets and rear shock relocation brackets just for now and then determining after measurements if lca's or PHB is needed.

I've already decided on the bmr strut mounts koni yellows c5z wheels and either 265 or 275 upfront with either 295, 305 or 315 out back. So really tires and springs are the only things holding me back right now.

 

PA is very much like Ontario but you have a little more sidewall to absorb bumps than I plan up have however konis are adjustable and your on the firmest setting so I think 800 could work out well actually for me.

 

My black turbo car ran eibach pros which are basically 700-750 front and 170 progressive rate rear. Same shocks that are on the daily driver 91 now. Car had 18/19" tires and lower profile tires and ran smoother than my 91 does with the global wests but the race car has roll bar and subframe connects and alot more mass to carry. And the shocks then likely were in better shape than now. They are old lol probably need replaced

I think you'll be ok on one of the medium settings on shocks

 

I run 850/175 on my car with Koni yellows. It isn't bouncy, since it is well within the dampening range of the Konis. It is harsh though, since I'm pretty low. Third gens don't have a huge amount of travel when lowered, and most complaints of ride quality are a result of hitting bump stops. For the front, I run a strut mounted foam bump stop to try and help, and the rears car be shaved a bit (I still need to do this) to give more travel. You can also run the foam 4th gen style bumpers in the rear, I'm sure they'd be much softer than the factory rubber or aftermarket poly. Ground Control actually has a trick new strut ( http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=970/CA=86 ) for the front that adds another inch of bump travel, and most aftermarket strut mounts offer more bump travel over stock, so theoretically you could add two additional inches with those and a good strut mount, which I'd assume would reduce the number of instances of bottoming out quite a bit.