I have an 88 305 TBI Firebird.
If I am driving at pretty much any speed above 25, and hit the brakes at a medium pressure, the car will shoot to the right. I have almost ended up in the other lane at times. I constantly must compensate for the shift that the brakes produce. Will this problem be solved by bleeding the brakes, or is it something else? This is my first problem.
Second, how do I bleed the rear drum brakes? I see the same valve that you turn to let the oil out, but it is reccessed in there. What do I use to get at it? I can't get a wrench in there and a socket is probly not deep enough to do the job. I'm probly not trying hard enough, so I'll give it another shot.
Third, the brake oil in my car now is disgustingly black. It looks almost like someone put used motor oil in there. I was surprised at how dirty it was. Is this caused just by being old, or is there a leak that will cause it? It's black all the way through in the front, from MC reservuior to break caliper. I don't know about the back however. If anyone could get back to me about any of thses problems, I would appriciate it.

Especialy the odd braking problem.
Thank you
Tyler

 

I'd say your rubber brake lines are at the point they shold be replaced. They break down inside and clog the line resulting in uneven braking pressure.

Replace them and bleed bleed bleed til there's clear fluid and that should solve the problem. If not, then you need to take a look at the calipers (first) and the rotors (second).

 

Yes JZ is right,its more than likely to be your rubber hoses.Best replace them all now(dont forget the rear one).Use good quality fluid and when bleeding,start from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder(passenger side rear)
PM

 

Most often you'll find that the bleed nipples are rusted in place and won't turn without snapping off. With drum brakes it's easier to just get new wheel cylinder assemblies, since they're cheap.

 

Yeah but.. then you run into the same problem with rusted flare nuts on the brake line!

 

I thought about that, and have been there. Of course in that case the best solution is to replace part of the brake line as well. However, I have pulled the brake line through the backing plate on a Chevette and replaced the wheel cylinder by turning it and not loosening the nut on the line. You can get quite creative when you don't want to pay a brake shop more than the whole car is worth. I've even bled brakes with frozen bleed screws by allowing fluid to squirt past the piston seals.

 

Ok, so I replace the rubber hoses. BUt how do I get to the bleeder valves on the drums? I don't think they are rusted, but I would at least like to try to get them. It looks like they are resseced in there though.
What works?

Tyler

 

The bleed screw comes through the backing plate right above where the brake line goes in. There is a retaining clip back there that holds the wheel cylinder in place. You should not need to remove it unless you're replacing the wheel cylinder. There's probably a special deep socket you can get over the bleed screw with a bleed hose in place, but a good 6-point deep socket should work without a hose.

 

if you break a bleeder in a caliper , their cheep for our cars also like $35.00 for a rebuilt at the local pep boys. or you can try and get it out with an easy out. thanks for the hose info . i didnt know there was a problem with those, mine was pulling to the right also . i cleaned and lubed my brakes and it helped a lot but didnt cure it. guess i know what i'm replacing next.