rear lower control arms seized
rear lower control arms seized
so anyway im trying to replace my rear axle
my car is an 89 rs and its a rust bucket for sure
i cant seem to push the bolts out of the brackets for the lower control arms. they seem seized fast to the rubber bushing. should i just burn them out? whats involved in replacing the bushings once i do that?
any tips or tricks very welcome
my car is an 89 rs and its a rust bucket for sure
i cant seem to push the bolts out of the brackets for the lower control arms. they seem seized fast to the rubber bushing. should i just burn them out? whats involved in replacing the bushings once i do that?
any tips or tricks very welcome
Re: rear lower control arms seized
Do you have any impact gun? I recently did that job, fortunately my car isn't rusty. An impact gun is great for stuff like that. I bought Founders control arms. They were super reasonable priced and I didn't have to deal with putting new bushings in the old, cruddy control arms.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,080
Likes: 34
From: Spring Hill, Fl.
Car: 87 iroc-z
Engine: 454
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: rear lower control arms seized
BFH 'em out.
i agree, buy some founders arms and get new hardware with them. well worth it.
i agree, buy some founders arms and get new hardware with them. well worth it.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,918
Likes: 2,448
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: rear lower control arms seized
Cut the ends off with a wizz wheel. Throw ALL the remains of the corpses in the trash.
Buy NEW control arms with NEW bolts. Goop em up REEEEEEEEL good with anti-seize; especially, the outside of the bolts where they go through the sleeves of the bushings, and of course, the inside of the bushings.
You're obviously in the Rust Belt. Learn to deal with it. Ignore people in the Sun Belt who have not the vaguest dimmest foggiest remotest hint of a whiff of a glimpse of a clue what you're facing. (they're not stupid, or bad people, just, out of their "zone"... about like somebody that's never been not in Kansas anymore trying to tell somebody in California how to pass emissions) Grease, wizz wheels, and anti-seize are your best friends.
Buy NEW control arms with NEW bolts. Goop em up REEEEEEEEL good with anti-seize; especially, the outside of the bolts where they go through the sleeves of the bushings, and of course, the inside of the bushings.
You're obviously in the Rust Belt. Learn to deal with it. Ignore people in the Sun Belt who have not the vaguest dimmest foggiest remotest hint of a whiff of a glimpse of a clue what you're facing. (they're not stupid, or bad people, just, out of their "zone"... about like somebody that's never been not in Kansas anymore trying to tell somebody in California how to pass emissions) Grease, wizz wheels, and anti-seize are your best friends.
Re: rear lower control arms seized
The bolt holes in the bushings are lined with steel tubes. The bolts corrode solid in the tubes and there you are beating the bolt to death and it won't slide out.
Sometimes they'll come loose and drive out with an air hammer, assuming you have a compressor. Otherwise cutting works.
Sometimes they'll come loose and drive out with an air hammer, assuming you have a compressor. Otherwise cutting works.
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 286
From: Florida
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:42 Auburn
Re: rear lower control arms seized
Yes that is for the pair. Those are the basic poly bushing. Your should spend the extra $10 or so for the 3 piece poly bushing. They let the control arm twist slightly so it will not bind under the pressure of cornering.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 20
From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
Re: rear lower control arms seized
Another vote for the Founders 3 way poly joints
Ride excellent
Ride excellent






