Hey all so i got these front springs and struts sitting in my garage waiting to be installed for months now... i want to do it!! i got my rear suspension in and it feels good. Well i want to get the front refreshed before i get my subframe connectors welded up so.... lets do this

What type of spring compressor did you use? (link?)

What else did you replace at the time? Im going to replace front struts/springs and sway bar bushings.

Other special tools needed?

Things you wish you knew before starting the job?

Is this do able with hand tools and floor jack?

How scary is it to do this job? The thought of the spring un compressing in my face is nerve racking...

How did you 'index' the springs? How crucial is this?

Any information/advice is greatly appreciated!! Thanks all

EDIT: ops if a mod sees this the thread name was supposed to be front springs... not front struts.... lol

 

This is what I used
http://m.ebay.com/itm/400993435820?_mwBanner=1

I did it on a lift however if you jack it up enough to have space where to insert the compressor I guess it will work. Just make sure you skip two coils per side or else you wouldn't be able to take it out.

Also cut a piece of pipe 1" long and slide it on the thread. This allows the compressor nut to stick out further.

Indexing is easy. There is a hole in the bottom of the A Arm where the end of the spring needs to be visible.

Just do a search on TGO as there is a lot of information and links to YouTube videos

 

I used a loaner tool from Autozone for free. It was the OEM brand. You will also need a 5" spacer tube cut out of 3/4" water or gas pipe.

https://mobiledistributorsupply.com/...oqxoCis3w_wcB#

It worked fine but man it gets tight. You do not want to mess around with half-*** compressors.

I only needed to compress mine to get the control arm out of the way to do the motor mounts.

 

inspect your strut mounts carefully and replace if needed.

an alignment is recommended after replacing springs as it will change ride height. you may want to consider replacing centerlink and all tie rod ends while you're there if their age and condition is unknown. may save another alignment down the road.

 

We have just done ours with a floor jack as far out on the a-arm as possible.

Its good to take a piece of chain and a bolt to chain the spring to the arm though to prevent it from flying out if something was to happen.

 

i did not use a spring compressor either good safety step with the chain just incase the jack slips or clasped all at once 😲

 

Is that a internal spring compressor?

The one you linked is that the one they do as a rental at autozone? also same question internal spring compressor?

Can you guys also explain a little more what the 3/4-1" 'spacer tube' is used for?

Funny you say that because i see the strut will have to come back out for it to be replaced so those might go on the list. I redid the whole steering linkage 2 years ago with moog and its still solid, will re-grease while im down there though

So you guys just jacked it at the a-arm with out a spring compressor and used a chain tied to the arm as a safety point?


So i was actually thinking about dropping the a-arm and getting a shop to press in some new ball joints and bolt bushings. Are the bushings that hard to do by hand? same thing with balljoint? i was reading some people had trouble trying the moog as its 'oversized'.

 

I had no problems using standard garage tools rebuilt my hole front end I will be moving the car tomorrow will update with pictures then

 

Yep. Put the jack as far out on the a arm as possible. A good ratchet strap works good too to hold the spring to the A-arm.

Works like a charm on lowered cars. Stock height and/or heavy springs can be more difficult.

 

You were able to do the ball joints and a arm bushings as well?

Thanks again guys for the help. So if I were to use a spring compressor the jacking at the a-arm is not needed?

Also no one has said this is a scary job lol... is it not? Why did I read this is a nerve racking job

 

A jack under the a-arm is still helpful to move the arm up and hold it in place while you get the strut bolts back in. You would just be having the force of the spring being held by the compressor not the jack.

Its not a scary job, but it has the potential to be dangerous. That spring has a LOT of stored energy when compressed. Get in the wrong spot and let something slip and that sucker will fly out.

 

Replace the strut mounts. The rubber and the top bearing only lasts as long as the struts do and should be replaced at the same time as the shocks. They are a wear item

 

Gotcha ok. Ive watched a couple vids on it and read the how to in the stickies so makes sense now. Ok ok well im always very cautious about safety when working on the cars so i'll just use extra caution when doing it. Just still curious about how the internal spring compressor works. Everything ive seen just uses a jack under the a-arm so far

Hmm ok has anyone gone with the J&M strut mounts recently? I was reading 10 year old posts saying its the one to get. Just havent seen much recently on it.

Found here https://hotpart.com/product/camarofi...e_pa_color=red

Or what did you guys go with for strut mounts?

 

I suggest Founders mounts if you want aftermarket. I run Delco OE though.

https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/

 

Damn they almost look identical except for the logo! Founders do have 21 reviews tho.....

So for stock replacement thats AC Delco 901-005 and 901-006?

 

I just did this 6 weeks ago since I went from old stock a-arms to awesome tube UMI arms. I used an internal spring compressor that i rented from Advanced Auto Parts. I ALSO used a floor jack. you have to figure out the "sweet spot" of where to line up the 4 arms (hint, there is a stickie/thread containing photos of this). I compressed the spring with the compressor out of the car in a diffeent room so in case it blasted loose it didn't hit the car. once the spring was compressed I delicately positioned it into the upper pocket and used a floor jack to bring the a-arm up to mate the two together, MAKING SURE to index the spring properly. It was a balancing act to do, but it worked. those springs can be dangerous. for removing them I used the safety-chain method as well.