a question for the rear guru's
a question for the rear guru's
has anyone tried making a brace for their rear end? or tried welding reinforcement to the axl tubes? i was thinking of either making a "girdle" connecting both tubes together possibly bracing against the diff cover (webbed TA style cover). or maybe just welding reinforcements on the tubes (either square or tube steel welded along the length of the axl tubes , front and rear) ? any ideas?
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Car: Camaro Z28 1LE R7U
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: G-Force Dog-Ring T5
If you have enough traction and power to cause the rear end housing to flex to the point where reinforcement is nesscsary, then the housing itself is the least of your worries. You are going to need a stronger rear end, i.e. 12 bolt. Reinforcing the housing will not stop you from tearing up the ring gear or breaking an axle.
On the other hand, an aluminum cover with studs that preload the bearing caps is a good idea, but the axle tubes and the housing is more than strong enough.
On the other hand, an aluminum cover with studs that preload the bearing caps is a good idea, but the axle tubes and the housing is more than strong enough.
under a hard launch , as the rear rotates, the tubes usually flex forward a bit which distorts the case and also helps you destroy the rearend. on earlier 10 and 12 bolts there are heavy duty rears with larger tubes that help correct this, usually out of HD trucks (also welding the tubes to the center section helps). but a swap is expensive on third gens . i've seen low 9 second cars with older 10 bolts that have some wacky mods done to them and they actually live. just wondering if anyone experimented with anything like that on a third gen seeing as the rears arent the best.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
The support cover and brace kit from Jegs is made by LPW Racing Products and is called the "Ultimate Rear end Cover" It is a support/girdle cover simular to most others but with a couple of drilled threaded bosses outboard of the bearing cap support screws.
Their brace kit is basicaly a couple of tubes (one for each side) with rod ends for both ends of each tube, brackets to weld onto the axle tubes near their ends, bolts & nuts, and a small plate to tie the two rodends together on the back of the cover better. The system triagulates the rear end very well to prevent the ends from pulling forward.
If you just weld straight pieces of tubing (square or round) directly to and parralel with the axle tubes you will stiffen the axle tubes a little but triangulation like this system uses is what really stiffens them.
The cover is sold sepperately from the brace kit, so you can make your own braces for it if you want.
http://www.lpwracing.com/main.htm
Their brace kit is basicaly a couple of tubes (one for each side) with rod ends for both ends of each tube, brackets to weld onto the axle tubes near their ends, bolts & nuts, and a small plate to tie the two rodends together on the back of the cover better. The system triagulates the rear end very well to prevent the ends from pulling forward.
If you just weld straight pieces of tubing (square or round) directly to and parralel with the axle tubes you will stiffen the axle tubes a little but triangulation like this system uses is what really stiffens them.
The cover is sold sepperately from the brace kit, so you can make your own braces for it if you want.
http://www.lpwracing.com/main.htm
Member

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, Canada
Car: Camaro Z28 1LE R7U
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: G-Force Dog-Ring T5
Originally posted by GRENDLE
under a hard launch , as the rear rotates, the tubes usually flex forward a bit which distorts the case and also helps you destroy the rearend.
under a hard launch , as the rear rotates, the tubes usually flex forward a bit which distorts the case and also helps you destroy the rearend.
Originally posted by GRENDLE
on earlier 10 and 12 bolts there are heavy duty rears with larger tubes that help correct this, usually out of HD trucks (also welding the tubes to the center section helps). but a swap is expensive on third gens . i've seen low 9 second cars with older 10 bolts that have some wacky mods done to them and they actually live.
on earlier 10 and 12 bolts there are heavy duty rears with larger tubes that help correct this, usually out of HD trucks (also welding the tubes to the center section helps). but a swap is expensive on third gens . i've seen low 9 second cars with older 10 bolts that have some wacky mods done to them and they actually live.
All these mods you are talking about do matter when you get into the 9-second range, but your rear end will never get you there. Sure there are lots of ThirdGens that are running 12s and even the odd one that dips into the 11s with a stock type rear end, but if a ThirdGen is running 12s with any kind of drag slick the rear end must be closely monitored, and its lifespan WILL be seriously shortened.
Bottom line with ThirdGen rear ends - they just aren't big enough. Period.
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
I do have to agree with Hunter Motorsports that 9s on a 7.5 aren't going to happen.
Most cars running 9s are running 60' times around 1.3x.
A normally prepped 7.5 rairly lives beyond 1.60 60's.
You can install aftermarket axles, gear set, solid pinion preload spacer, a better diff, & a girdle/cover & axle tube braces, maybe even billet bearing caps, but it will probably still not live a long time running 60's below 1.50 (at least not in a heavy car) even with all that. Even with a good gear set, the pinion tries to shove that small diameter ring gear and the diff it's bolted to out of the back of the housing, usually breaking the bearing caps(and/or bolts) in the process. The larger the ring gear diameter is the less the pinion tries to shove it backwards.
Most cars running 9s are running 60' times around 1.3x.
A normally prepped 7.5 rairly lives beyond 1.60 60's.
You can install aftermarket axles, gear set, solid pinion preload spacer, a better diff, & a girdle/cover & axle tube braces, maybe even billet bearing caps, but it will probably still not live a long time running 60's below 1.50 (at least not in a heavy car) even with all that. Even with a good gear set, the pinion tries to shove that small diameter ring gear and the diff it's bolted to out of the back of the housing, usually breaking the bearing caps(and/or bolts) in the process. The larger the ring gear diameter is the less the pinion tries to shove it backwards.
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