McLovin1181

Hi guys,
I was instructed my my boss, that I need to start making How-To videos for new hires at my work.
The Videos need to show a process to someone who's 100% new.
(basically making sure an idiot can properly do something)

I Figured making a few videos on working on my 3rd gen would be good practice.
tear my video apart
(I know the spring clocking was a weak point)

redneckjoe

i thought it was a good video and you did a nice job.

on the critique,...the only problem i see is this quote;
(basically making sure an idiot can properly do something)

your asking a lot, lol

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

What kind of videos instruction are you doing for work?

Tear your video apart huh? Ok...

The basic format is very old school instructional. Dry but functional, if that's what you're going for then that's fine.

WRT to the actual content, 2 things that I would argue are wrong:
- never use a cinder block under a car, they tend to crumble with pressure. I know that using it as a wheel chock is one in a million chance that it crumbles and fails but it could happen. Use a proper wheel chock or a piece of wood.
- you shouldn't hit the threaded part of the tie rod stud to knock it loose. At least you used a soft face mallet so you're pretty unlikely to booger up the threads, but you can still bend them. Take a heavy hammer and whack the knuckle that it goes through and it will break loose.

one thing that is a matter of opinion:
- It's easier/less work/safer to pull the a-arm pivot bolts then the strut side. pulling the a-arm bolts allow you to keep a bunch of heavy suspension parts between you and the spring and makes the spring compressor unnecessary. The only disadvantage is that it's harder to line them back up, but a second jack and a pry bar will usually make it work fine.

Good luck with that, they'll just keep finding better idiots...

McLovin1181

Well thanks for the input
The videos are meant to be very quick and to the point.
People lose interest easily.

The cinder block was a good area.
I should have said "behind" the tire not under.
or used a wood 4x4 ex.
Just as a rollback failsafe.

my work keeps hiring people who can't even use a screwdriver let alone make million dollar f35 parts.
My goal is to idiot proof everything

I plan on making a steering rebuild video
TBI rebuild
And properly sound dampening the doors.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Overall not bad. I could probably do the job after watching the video. The camera-work was decent and everything was in frame. As far as the voice over the instructional format is fine, but there were some long pauses in the middle of sentences that felt jarring. A few more takes on those would take care of that I think. It would have been nice had the proper installation of the spring compressor been caught on camera and explained, but I understand it's hard to go back after the fact. In the same vane, I'd generally expect a word of caution about how compressed springs hold tremendous energy, and it can be very dangerous handling them. As someone following along it would have also been nice to include torque specs for the fasteners when reassembling, to remove any doubt. Also, although it's taken care of by the title in this case, a quick mention at the beginning of the video of what the "training" intends to accomplish by the end would be helpful to get the right frame of mind. Good work, it's nice that you're contributing to the thirdgen community at the same time as practicing for your work .

RBob

iTrader: (1)

*This* I started doing springs this way years ago. It is so much easier and safer. Compressing a spring is like holding a hand grenade with the pin pulled.

RBob.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

I'm not familiar with that method. Do you put a jack under the A-arm when removing the bolts or just knock them out and let the A arm get pushed down with the remaining travel of the spring?

McLovin1181

When I replaced the A-Arm bushings with poly, I had one hell of a time getting them to line back up.
And that was with just an A-arm and a new ball joint attached.

I do despise spring compressors though.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I've done stock bushings, ES and prothane... it takes some fiddling but I've never had a set that i couldn't get back in.

Usually I use a big shop jack under the spring pocket, if I need it a small bottle jack under the rear bushing and then pry in/out with a flat pry bar. This combination will usually get it back in there in less than 10 minutes

RBob

iTrader: (1)

I use a standard roll-around floor jack like the one in your video. On the lift plate there are four tabs that stick up. I align two of those under the lip of the a-arm between the bushings. Jacking it up a bit relieves the tension on the bolts.

Using two phillips screwdrivers push the bolt out while the screwdriver takes it's place. This prevents the a-arm from dropping while working on the second bolt. Then remove both screwdrivers and slowly let the arm down. As it can move further down then the other method the spring is completely relaxed.

I do the same screwdriver trick with the install. Use them first then push them out as each bolt goes in.

For safety can also wrap a chain through/around the spring and a-arm. The chain goes through the opening in the center of the spring pocket.

RBob.

Ghettobird52

I like how short and to the point the video is. This will def help in a few weeks when i go to rebuild my front end!

Quick question,

In the video when you lower the control arm down along with spring and strut, you keep the rotor and brakes connected. Would this be possible if i was to replace the ball joint as well?

Is the brake line long enought to set the brake parts to the side while i replace ball joints/control arm bushings?

Thanks

McLovin1181

If you replace ball joints, I suggest removing the brake line.
It would be a pain to try to keep the assembly together.
I suggest just buying new lines as they are $12 a pop and the original ones are probably worn.

I would also replace any other parts they are old and worn out.
Such as: sway bar mounts and end links ex.

thirdchance

I liked the simple video format. Well done. I have fretted over this procedure many a time.

One question is what about the rubber upper spring isolator? I finally took mine to a real shop and they were unable to re-install the upper spring isolator. I now have a lot of squawking there when turning lock to lock.

As outlined in other forum topics the upper isolator is a factor in ride height setting and is used by some and not by others. Some use heater hose as an easy compromise. I believe the stock rubber has to be put in a certain way.

Did yours have a rubber isolator on the top of the spring?

I agree with the safety chain around the spring BTW, but I am old...lol

Ghettobird52

But if i have to remove the brake lines, doesn't that require me to bleed the brakes once everythings back together? Never done that one before

Yeah im going to replace everything upfront suspension wise ; struts, springs, strut mounts, swaybar bushings & endlinks, ball joints and control arm bushings.

McLovin1181

I wasn't able to use the 1/2 in rubber isolator.
I even bought new ones.

If you hear a cluck or such when turning, you probably didn't seat the spring all the way in the upper mount.
You will need to remove them and make sure they are seated in cross member
(Ask me how I know this)

McLovin1181

[QUOTE=Ghettobird52;6151397]But if i have to remove the brake lines, doesn't that require me to bleed the brakes once everythings back together?

Ya man, good time to learn to bleed brakes.
Your DOT3 is probably old and dirty anyways.

Not to mention 3d gens already have bad Spongy brakes to begin with.
Fresh DOT 3 helps

Ghettobird52

damn ok gotta add that to the list! And yeah it is, ive owned the car for over 8 years and its never been changed so... haha

thirdchance

Thanks McLovin1181: yes I read one thread somewhere in ThirdGen about clocking the springs up in the mount properly. Can't locate it now. Will get the shop to try again.

And yes did flush the brakes last year along with new SS lines, rotors, calipers, pads, Konis, Eibach and susp bushings. A lot firmer pedal.

McLovin1181

A simple way to see if the Springs are seated in the top purch, is to Simply take a flashlight and look directly underneath the a arm.(safely)

​​​There are two holes in the a arm perch one of them should be covered up by the spring.