U Joints
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From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
If you mean driveshaft U-joint, it simple.
Get under the car, find where the driveshaft connects to the rear axle. Its held together by 4 bolts. Unscrew the bolts and slide the driveshaft forward a bit (you may need to do a bit of prying). At the end of the driveshaft (disconnected end) is the U-joint. Remove and replace.
Get under the car, find where the driveshaft connects to the rear axle. Its held together by 4 bolts. Unscrew the bolts and slide the driveshaft forward a bit (you may need to do a bit of prying). At the end of the driveshaft (disconnected end) is the U-joint. Remove and replace.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Yes there's one at each end. Your shaft might not use conventional snaprings to retain the U-joints, in which case you'll need a press to break the nylon retainer
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
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From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
Some people also use a propane torch to heat up the plastic retainer so the U joint can be pressed apart with a large C clamp or vise and sockets.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by IROCKZ4me
Some people also use a propane torch to heat up the plastic retainer so the U joint can be pressed apart with a large C clamp or vise and sockets.
Some people also use a propane torch to heat up the plastic retainer so the U joint can be pressed apart with a large C clamp or vise and sockets.
I was under my car today for a short while and I saw no such 4 bolts. Am I just not looking hard enough? I'm asking this because everytime I tap the gas my whole car shakes back and forth. Espicially in reserve. What could this be? Motor mounts? it doesn't do it when it's cruising, just when I tap the gas to give it a forward thrust motion.
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 727
Likes: 1
From: Charleston, WV, USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z + Misc. project cars.
Engine: Supercharged + Nitrous TPI 355 CID
Transmission: Art Carr built Th700r4
I was under my car today for a short while and I saw no such 4 bolts. Am I just not looking hard enough?
The U joint has a cross shape. <h1>+</h1> There is a bearing cap on each of the four ends. Two opposing ends are pressed into the yoke of the driveshaft. The other two opposing ends are retained with two straps bolted (with four bolts) to the pinion yoke.
Usually worn U joint vibrations occur most at light throttle. and are a buzzing type sensation. When accelerating (or decelerating against the engine) it takes up some of the clearance and the vibrations usually are reduced. It also may clunk when changing throttle positions. A bent or out of balance shaft has about the same buzzing vibrations but they are not throttle dependant they are driveshaft RPM dependant.
Could you describe more thoroughly what you mean by "...my whole car shakes back and forth"? Is it a rapid vibration type shake, or more of a slow wobble? Does it move one direction and then stay there until you let off the throttle and then move back, or what exactly?
Sounds like you may have a major suspension component broken or loose.
Check your transmission mount. The torque arm pushing up on the tail of the trannie breaks them easily. It may look ok just sitting there, try to jack up the transmission to see if it lifts off of the crossmember. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the motor mounts too, as well as the torque arm, the rear control arms, the panhard rod, the shocks, and the bushings, bolts & mounts for all of the above.
Just as an idea of the type of thing you might look for:
I know a guy that bought an early eighties TA that was tight when he bought it. After driving it about a year, including trips to the dragstrip, and autocrosses, it developed a cluncking loosness in the rear end with side to side movement. Upon investigation of the problem we found that a previous owner (or one of his so called "mechanics") had apparently broken or lost one of the large specially shanked panhard rod bolts and had replaced it with a regular 5/16" bolt with fender washers and a nonlocking, regular nut. While the fastener was tight he hadn't noticed any problems, but when it loosened over time it allowed the car to move side to side over the rear axle quite a bit with a lot of clunking.
Last edited by IROCKZ4me; Jan 3, 2002 at 01:33 AM.
Thanks for the help. I'm learning a lot.
Ok Imagine this. I'm pulling out of the driveway in 1st gear going pretty slow in 1st just getting it cruise (no gas) then I tap the gas to give it a forward thrust and it bounces back and forth about 2 times. It's worse in reverse. I can hear a lot of the gears being noisy and what not and my rear end (not the one in my pants) obviously has been had fluid leaking out. Also, it does this in every gear (but 1st 2nd and 3rd are the noisiest) This is my project car so I don't use it as a daily driver. I thought it was the transmission mount too. I checked those but not with a jack, I'll do that today. I used the pry bar. So should I just check to see if everything is bolted together back there? Also, I need BADLY new shocks and struts, could that also be it?
Ok Imagine this. I'm pulling out of the driveway in 1st gear going pretty slow in 1st just getting it cruise (no gas) then I tap the gas to give it a forward thrust and it bounces back and forth about 2 times. It's worse in reverse. I can hear a lot of the gears being noisy and what not and my rear end (not the one in my pants) obviously has been had fluid leaking out. Also, it does this in every gear (but 1st 2nd and 3rd are the noisiest) This is my project car so I don't use it as a daily driver. I thought it was the transmission mount too. I checked those but not with a jack, I'll do that today. I used the pry bar. So should I just check to see if everything is bolted together back there? Also, I need BADLY new shocks and struts, could that also be it?
I'll probably just put new mounts in anyways. It wouldn't hurt anything and they're not that expensive, plus, it would be a good learning experience (hopefully a good one!). I'm a little worried about the motor mounts. That makes me nervous. How hard is that and is there anyone who has done this?
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