I have the bolts hand tight in my UMI k member . The car is getting an LS but doesn't have the engine in yet. I was wondering about getting the K member aligned correctly. The alignment tabs are smaller than the factory ones allowing for some variance.

 

Just don't tighten it with a wrench. Run the bolts up so the K member is in place and then leave it until the engine is going in. When you're installing the engine/tranny install the motor mounts to the engine and K member and make those finger tight too. Then bolt the transmission mount in place and work on tightening the K member and motor mount bolts in a ping pong fashion. Do it in 2-3 torque steps to make sure nothing binds. Also, invest in some 3/8-16 x 1" flange bolts and flange nuts. Every time I have removed my motor mounts or K member braces I have to replace half dozen washers. You don't get that problem with flange heads.

 

Excellent idea!! Thank you

 

For torquing them I do all bolts to snug, then all bolts to 20 ft/lbs, then 40 ft/lbs (3/8-16 grade 8) then the K member bolts which are 90 ft lbs I believe. If your transmission crossmember is slotted you can adjust that if the motor mounts aren't going in very easy but that should be a last effort.

 

I still need to buy the crossmember. Will probably buy a torque arm with relocation crossmember but I don't think UMI makes one for a T56. Will have to look at BMR or Spohn

 

Don't buy the Spohn crosmember unless your exhaust runs the stock location, it's strong but it really hampers your ground clearance. I ran their T-5 crossmember and the pipes weren't happy. You could always buy a regular T56 retrofit cross member and then buy the track pak style that uses a shorter arm and has it's own separate mount.

 

Have you ran the short arm or had any dealing with it? I've thought about that but didn't know how streetable they are?

 

I've not owned one but if I had not already owned my aftermarket torque arm setup I would buy that version. It interferes with much less and has some advantages.

 

Short arms increase forward traction, but can great wheel hop. They can also create wheel hop under hard braking

 

Interesting!! That doesn't sound very appealing

 

Depends what your plans for the car are.

 

I had a UMI mid-length torque arm (competitor product to the BMR Trak Pak). No quirky handling that I could tell. However, I found the ground clearance too poor to live with on the street and removed it from my car after a year of use. The problem is the cross-bar has to route under the exhaust and it gets too close to the road surface.

The short torque arms (like the Jegster) are the ones that cause quirky handling. Those are purpose built for drag racing.

 

Most people would just situate it until engine and trans mounts line up. But if you really want to pay attention to the finer details, then mount it to square the chassis (front and rear suspension pivot points are squared up).