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Just got my three point today in hammered black. It's a beautiful piece but I am questioning the "BMR" flat plate in the middle.
The whole idea of a STB is to transfer rigidity from one strut tower to the other. The flat "BMR" plate allows the bar to flex when pressed. Really? I thought these things needed to get pressed on one end and push 1:1 on the other.
I leaned on one end while the other end was on the floor. I was able to noticeably deflect the bar. I've never been able to do this with the consistent cross section bars.
I have it on my car. It clears the firebird hood easy. It rubs on the hood liner a bit. Upgrading to a 3 point this xmas. Mine seems to be built strong. One of the few that clears OEM hoods with TPI.
I had the BMR 3 point brace and it made a noticeable difference in creeks and rattles. I too noticed that it flexed, but it did help. Ultimately didn't like the forced advertising of that BMR right in the middle of my beautiful TPI! ...currently running a Jamex 2 point. ....and although pricey, I'd like to upgrade at some point to the Heidts 3 point. Money is needed elsewhere for the time being.
Any "TPI" specific brace should clear a Camaro hood.
The main purpose of that brace is to distribute side load from one strut tower to the other. This is load from a horizontal force, not a vertical force. While you may notice the bar flex in a vertical plane, I would bet it's still very strong in a horizontal plane and will in fact take out a lot of the side to side flex. I will agree that the flat plate is not as strong as a solid piece of tube, however I would also bet that it will perform it's job very well, especially being a 3 point brace.
Just got my three point today in hammered black. It's a beautiful piece but I am questioning the "BMR" flat plate in the middle.
The whole idea of a STB is to transfer rigidity from one strut tower to the other. The flat "BMR" plate allows the bar to flex when pressed. Really? I thought these things needed to get pressed on one end and push 1:1 on the other.
I leaned on one end while the other end was on the floor. I was able to noticeably deflect the bar. I've never been able to do this with the consistent cross section bars.
Back it goes I think.
My BMR subframe connectors flex when pressed too.. BMR told me to weld these little metal squares between the subframe and the drip rail. So basically, they wanted me to use the rigidity of the drip rail to reinforce the subframe connectors. No joke..
Ran that same one on my car for track days an auto crossing never notice it flexing at all.that flat part that says bmr on it has to be a 1/2 inch piece of steel again never notice it flexing all I know is when I put it on there was a big difference..anyone want to buy one in perfect shape.going to a HSR so it doesn't fit
My BMR subframe connectors flex when pressed too.. BMR told me to weld these little metal squares between the subframe and the drip rail. So basically, they wanted me to use the rigidity of the drip rail to reinforce the subframe connectors. No joke..
It's BMR...
-- Joe
By tying the subframe connector into the drip rail/rocker panel at a few spots along it, you effectively add a ton of rigidity to the combined structure. It's common fabrication knowledge. It doesn't take much...you have two long structures of metal running beside each other. Without the welded gussets, they will have some amount of flex independently. Now you tie them in to each other by welding the gussets along them and you create an extremely rigid section now. It's no different than the body mounts along a truck frame tying the two sections together to give the assembly much more structure as a whole.
By tying the subframe connector into the drip rail/rocker panel at a few spots along it, you effectively add a ton of rigidity to the combined structure. It's common fabrication knowledge. It doesn't take much...you have two long structures of metal running beside each other. Without the welded gussets, they will have some amount of flex independently. Now you tie them in to each other by welding the gussets along them and you create an extremely rigid section now. It's no different than the body mounts along a truck frame tying the two sections together to give the assembly much more structure as a whole.
That only provided rigidity in one direction.
I can put my car up on the lift using measuring sticks and the body flex is immense with the BMR subframe connectors, even with the welded tabs.
Adding MAC subframe connectors helped a little, but the fact is neither are even close to how strong my other Formula was with SSM subframe connectors.
I stitched welded the Global West two-cat design from the mid 90's. I was rear-ended at a traffic light, and I believe the SFC saved me from extensive body/frame damage.
Also, I purchased Kenny Brown STB and like it. I seem to have good luck with the mid 90's products!
I stitched welded the Global West two-cat design from the mid 90's.
Those are the ones I have on my GTA, along with a BMR STB, and my car has hardly any flex. I can jack up the rear on one side and be able to put jack stands under both sides of the car.
I stitched welded the Global West two-cat design from the mid 90's. I was rear-ended at a traffic light, and I believe the SFC saved me from extensive body/frame damage.
Also, I purchased Kenny Brown STB and like it. I seem to have good luck with the mid 90's products!
I have a stb that kinda looks like that. No brand markings. N Ed to get around to putting it on .
I can put my car up on the lift using measuring sticks and the body flex is immense with the BMR subframe connectors, even with the welded tabs.
Adding MAC subframe connectors helped a little, but the fact is neither are even close to how strong my other Formula was with SSM subframe connectors.
-- Joe
I can't comment on the BMR connectors vs other brands, however they made a big difference on my personal car. Before them, if I jacked it up by the front frame rail under the driver's foot area, the front of the rocker would probably get a foot off the ground before the rear tire came up. Now, it lifts the rear tire after jacking it a few inches. You can feel it during driving as well. However, a subframe connector is only going to do so much by itself for chassis rigidity. The real and unfortunate solution is a full cage, but that's not ideal for myself as well as most other's with "street" cars.
Those are the ones I have on my GTA, along with a BMR STB, and my car has hardly any flex. I can jack up the rear on one side and be able to put jack stands under both sides of the car.
So the BMR STB fits under the GTA hood without issues?
12-07-2017, 08:58 PM
