So, I was redoing my centerlink and tie rods, and I noticed that my steering box is leaking like a stuck pig, as well as the hydraulic line from the pump. The way I see it, I have 3 options:

1. Fix the box I have. This is impractical because I don't have tons of time and I need to drive the car

2. Replace the box with another power steering box. Just tear this out, run new lines, and get a reman box. The issues I can see are getting a WS6 box in decent shape for not all that much money, and

3. Tear out the box, pump, and lines, and put in an 84+ S-10 manual box. This isn't all that expensive ($230 for a reman box from discountsteering and a $175 core charge.) If I want, I'll pull another S-10 box out of a yard in order to get that $175

Anyway, I'm looking for recommendations and advice on which of these paths I should follow. Ideally, I'd like to have a plan of action BEFORE my pump gives out due to leaks or I bust a line or something of that nature.

 

I replaced mine with a replacement fast ratio steering box and it wasnt that expensive or terribly hard. O'Reilly here in town ordered me one.

 

I am about to replace mine in a month or two with this. = https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PNB391080
Looks decent enough to me.

 

If you think you're going to walk into an autozone, advance, NAPA... and buy or even order a close ratio box an actually GET a close ratio box in the box you're in for a surprise. I went through probably a dozen different ones including the standard rebuilds, an AC Delco rebuild, Lars... and found NONE that were correct. I shot some videos and posted them and information all over the place, but this is a good place to start:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...c-z-quick.html

(search for me and steering box on here also, there's a bunch of threads I posted info in)

FWIW, after I posted a few videos I found that the AGR and other $$$ performance boxes are no better. I came to the conclusion that the rebuilders either don't check what cores they are starting with or don't care (I'm sure AGR and the likes know better so there's no excuse there), just rebuild whatever they get as a core, and often people with old muscle cars are buying the "close ratio" boxes, swapping them in their older cars and returning their original's as the core so you pay for a close ratio box and typically you get something not close ratio AND the wrong stops (too much travel) for an f-body.

 

I rebuilt mine, and it wasn't too bad to do. Here is the kit I used #8522; https://www.plews-edelmann.com/repair-kits/ Like 83CrossfireTA said, I bought a couple of steering boxes, Auto Zone, Advance Auto. None of them were even close to my original. And by the way, they are all remans. The only thing they replace is the seals. If you don't have time for #1, you don't have time for any of the others. It doesn't take long to rebuild a stock unit. Maybe a couple of hours start to finish with a good rebuild video. https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...g+box&fr=yfp-t

 

I've rebuilt 2 at this point, once you figure out how to do the fussy bits the actual rebuild takes less than an hour. The only part that really requires any instructions is reloading the ***** and setting the preloads. Mine typically take 2-3 days or so but that involves some degreasing, deburring, priming and painting while I have it disassembled.

 

I used a rubber hose for the steel *****. Worked slick.

 

The one Oreilly ordered for me was definitely a correct fast-ratio steering box. Ive driven third-gens that didn't have it and you can tell the difference . It does probably help that every suspension piece under mine has been went through also.

 

While I'm not disagreeing with you on the feel, I checked my steering box out of the car and measured a lock to lock with the reman's and both were off by more than a quarter turn. My factory one was quicker. And those were suppose to be fast ratio. Mine runs 3 turns lock to lock in the car. http://www.powersteering.com/fast-ratio-conversions/

 

I had my original 12.7:1 ratio box rebuilt by these guys.

http://www.powersteering.com

They did an awesome job and I know I have my original box back with the correct ratio and steering stops. I wasn’t confident that I would get the correct box from Advance, AutoZone, NAPA, etc.

 

I recommend Turn One Steering. Sell lots of noise toys to make the Recirc-Ball setup as good as it can be.

 

What does it cost to have this place do the rebuild? The site does not say. How did you pack it for shipping?

 

Their website does list their pricing. $289 for the rebuild with standard detailing. $49 extra if you want their extreme detailing. Shipping was probably $25 each way.

For shipping, they have instructions on their website, but basically drain as much fluid as you can by rotating the pitman arm back and forth and then put the whole thing in a heavy plastic bag so it won't leak out of the box. I used an oversized box, packed all around it with some old towels/rags and crumpled newspaper and then taped box really good with packing tape. They also have a good shipping/packing guide on their website.

It was probably a little more expensive than some of the auto parts store options, but the quality of the rebuild is top notch and I know its the right one for my car.

 

Thanks, I should have looked closer. I finally found the pricing. I may try to rebuild it myself but this is a good option.

 

http://leepowersteering.com/

These guys do EXCELLENT work. And can provide some upgrades in the process.

GD

 

If you do rebuild it yourself get the Plews 8522 kit and a piece of rubber hose the size the steel ***** will fit in.

 

If it's a close ratio (12.7:1) F-body 16" wheel box you should have just under 2.25 turns (steering wheel) lock to lock (and at that point the tire should clear the inner fender or just barely be touching it), and one with 15" wheels should have just a little bit more, and the pitman arm should travel 62* pitman arm travel from lock to lock.

I think I've tested 14 aftermarket rebuilds from all sorts of different rebuilders now that were all supposed to be close ratio f-body boxes, and not one was. Out of those only one was a 12.7:1 box, and that one had the wrong stops in it so it had almost 90* travel (in an f-body that would put even skinny front tires in to the inside fenders).

Here is me testing one of the first ones (I know it's an awful video but if you can sit through 6 minutes you'll probably get what I'm getting at):

and here is one only slightly better from when I sort of refined my testing process, this is the close ratio box that doesn't have the right stops:

I got to the point where a bunch of the local parts stores ordered in all the parts that might be right, I would just show up and setup my degree wheel/indicator setup in the back and test them.

I can just about guarantee that anything you got from one of the standard stores (autozone, advance, NAPA, oreily...) is the correct box unless it was a 1 in 100 freak accident. As a matter of fact, the store brand rebuilds are all done by the same company with one of 2 stickers on it and put in different store brand boxes (Duralast...) and the Lars and other rebuilds are no better (they have nicer paint )


If you click on my videos and then look at some of the recommended videos (I might have a link in one of the video descriptions also, I know I've posted it on this forum before), you'll see that even the high $$$ rebuilds that advertise specifically 12.7:1 boxes are rarely correct also.

Honestly, at this point, unless you have a 12.7:1 box, got it rebuilt or rebuilt it yourself and know you got your original box back I doubt you have a rebuilt close ratio box.