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Does it seem to transmit any power steering pump noise up through the column? That seems to be one of the big concerns with the M-van piece.
No, I don't feel or hear anything and the one joint has damper built into it which probably keeps that from happening. I just got back from a road trip to a show and car ran great and steering was so much better.
No, I don't feel or hear anything and the one joint has damper built into it which probably keeps that from happening. I just got back from a road trip to a show and car ran great and steering was so much better.
After not driving the 3rd gen for a while (one cylinder now has low compression on the new engine... sigh), I fired it up to move it around and found the pump noise through the steering wheel really obnoxious. Maybe it was just some Stockholm syndrome when I said it was fine. Or the exhaust isn't loud enough.
The earlier non-booted Astro van shafts have the rubber damper. These are the ones to use as there is no pump noise. But they aren't a direct bolt in, they need some work to be used.
The jeep shafts are the same way. Rubber damper and no noise. These are a direct bolt in (IIRC).
Ive got at least 13 years on my Astro van dealeo & not one single issue with it.Worst problem i ever had was the bearing caps sliding out a bit (as seen in the vid JamesC refers to in the link).At the 20 sec mark you can see only one side of the u-joint moving side/side.Mostl likely the bearing cap/s have slid out some.Or were never pressed all the way in.
This happened to mine a couple weeks after i made it.Initially i only re-center punched the caps, but they slide out anyway.After pressing them back in, i spot welded them, problem solved.You have to really snug them up, so there is no slack whatsoever, without binding of course.
Also there is a small flat spring (looks like a tiny mono leaf spring) on a flat spot on the main shaft, near its end.This spring keeps the shaft under tension once inserted in the outer tube.If you leave that spring out you will have slack between the two parts.Especially as you extend the shaft (no pun) after its installed.Since at this point the main shaft is close to "slipping out" of the outer tube.
Ive always had the damper end installed, so cant complain about pump noise either.
Well , as much as this thread discouraged me , I ended up installing the Astro shaft I had bought some time ago (Bought it before I read this thread) . The rag joint in my original shaft was loose and having the Astro shaft with no play I went for it . I've only driven it once since I installed it and I did notice less play in the steering wheel in comparison with the loose original , and I did not hear any weird noises coming from the steering wheel .
I'll update this when I've driven it more , and I'll be listening closely for any new sounds/vibrations .
Just a thought; because of the, "mine works good with no noise", and, "mine generates noise and vibration", maybe it's the pump itself that's the problem. I rebuilt my pump when i was having a different steering issue, but my pump didn't make any noise before or after i rebuilt the pump, so i didn't get any noise before and after i replaced my steering shaft.
Just a thought; because of the, "mine works good with no noise", and, "mine generates noise and vibration", maybe it's the pump itself that's the problem.
No pump noise before the swap to the Astro Van shaft, no pump noise after replacing it.
Seems like some days I notice it more than others. But really the only time it really sticks out is with windows up and no radio, at least for me. Not annoying enough to bother changing back yet.
Well , as much as this thread discouraged me , I ended up installing the Astro shaft I had bought some time ago (Bought it before I read this thread) . The rag joint in my original shaft was loose and having the Astro shaft with no play I went for it . I've only driven it once since I installed it and I did notice less play in the steering wheel in comparison with the loose original , and I did not hear any weird noises coming from the steering wheel .
I'll update this when I've driven it more , and I'll be listening closely for any new sounds/vibrations .
Well , it's been four days now , and I've driven it maybe 75 or so miles . At first because I had either the windows open or the A/C on I couldn't hear it and of course that led me to close the windows and not run the A/C as a test . It turns out that very faintly on hard corners where I'm not stepping on the gas I can barely hear a hydraulic pump whine sound , if I'm stepping on the gas during a hard corner the engine noise completely blocks it out . Moderate to sedate cornering produces no sound I can hear . So , yes if I go specifically listening for it I can hear it , but it's otherwise so barely there that I can't call it any kind of detriment .
Yeah it really just boils down to whether or not you notice the noise and if it even bothers you. I hardly notice it anymore really. If the noise is very excessive, it's possible there's an issue with the pump/box or some air trapped somewhere.
And really it's not like it's that hard to swap out. You already have it, might as well try it! The most annoying part is wiggling the factory one off of the steering wheel shaft if it's a tight fit like mine.
I have to remove a supercharger to get at the steering shaft It's something I'd only really like to do as little as possible. My car makes loads of noise at idle, so not sure the noise would bother me. The question is: is the upside worth it?
I have to remove a supercharger to get at the steering shaft It's something I'd only really like to do as little as possible. My car makes loads of noise at idle, so not sure the noise would bother me. The question is: is the upside worth it?
My answer would be , if you have a worn factory rag joint that is creating play in the steering by all means consider the Astro shaft if you have to take it apart . But if your factory rag joint is tight , and since in your case there is a lot of additional work required , I can't see the benefit other than not having a rag joint to eventually get sloppy (If yours is presently tight , that is) .
PS , not any kinds of a dealbreaker , but it's only a 99.5% bolt in , there is a small notch required to be filed into the steering shaft that exits the firewall to provide clearance for the Astro shaft's pinch bolt . Takes about 2 minutes with a Dremel tool and the right bit and is easy as can be to do , but deserved mention anyway because the stock shaft has no such slight machined groove for it's bolt ......
I can totally see where everyone is coming from. There is a noticeable whine amplified through the shaft being there’s no rubber to isolate it from the top side of the shaft. Its pretty much like the effect of listening to a fuel injector though a screw driver. Anyway, yea if your car is relatively stock with a stock exhaust, I would just stick to the stock shaft. It seems like alot of the guys, including myself, with more modified cars seem to not mind the most. I mean with the semi solid motor mounts, cam, and slp loudmouth I cant hear any whine. I also upgraded all the other bushings and steering parts on the car, so getting rid of the archaic rag joint wasn’t a bad idea.
Thanks guys. The noise definitely won't bother me, I just want a nice precise driving machine. Will all my suspension mods, I think this could be a good idea for me still.
To eliminate the P/S system noise need to use an Astro shaft that has the rubber insert. In the pic it is right before the u-joint.
RBob.
What year Astro does this shaft come out of? I've read and re-read threads multiple times and I always seem to forget the important bits. Is there an RBob definitive Astro shaft guide? I know the AWD shafts are to be avoided and there is some sort of bearing that you need to pull when you remove the shaft from the van. These are pretty difficult to find here locally for some reason, so when I do find the correct year I want to hop on it.
Did someone ever try to combine the Firebird shaft with the unmodified astro shaft? We will try that next week.
Unfortunately i don't have an unmodified Astro shaft, so we need to turn the head again. I'll let you know!
The point of using the astro piece is to eliminate the rag joint w/ a u-joint.So you'd want to at least swap that end. The other side uses a dog bone or something type joint, its mostly metal and doesn't wear near as much, but since you have to remove the whole thing to replace the rag joint might as well go the whole nine yards.
Did someone ever try to combine the Firebird shaft with the unmodified astro shaft?
You can't merge the 3rd gen shaft with the Astro shaft. Been too long to remember why. But you can merge a 4th gen shaft with the astro shaft for a true bolt-in solution. But I don't recommend it unless you really know what the hell you're doing and have sick welding skills. Seriously, it's not something that should be touted here.
You can't merge the 3rd gen shaft with the Astro shaft. Been too long to remember why. But you can merge a 4th gen shaft with the astro shaft for a true bolt-in solution. But I don't recommend it unless you really know what the hell you're doing and have sick welding skills. Seriously, it's not something that should be touted here.
Don't worry. A professional welder will do the job for me. As far as i can see, i can merge the 3. Gen shaft with the astro shaft. Don't know why it shouldn't be working? we will see it next week.
Don't worry. A professional welder will do the job for me. As far as i can see, i can merge the 3. Gen shaft with the astro shaft. Don't know why it shouldn't be working? we will see it next week.
Keep us updated, maybe with a tutorial. Cheers, Ryan
As far as i can see, i can merge the 3. Gen shaft with the astro shaft. Don't know why it shouldn't be working? we will see it next week.
I don't think the two halves of the joint are compatible, that's why I used 4th gen joint. But I can't remember the fine details. @mw66nova did the work for me and might remember better.
I also replaced the lower column bearing (engine bay firewall) while I was in there. You can get a new steel bearing from Hawks Motorsports. Expensive little sucker but brand new and true direct fit without hassle.
I also replaced the lower column bearing (engine bay firewall) while I was in there. You can get a new steel bearing from Hawks Motorsports. Expensive little sucker but brand new and true direct fit without hassle.
07-10-2018, 08:41 PM
It's something I'd only really like to do as little as possible. My car makes loads of noise at idle, so not sure the noise would bother me. The question is: is the upside worth it? 
