Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

I've done:

1. Steering box rebuild
2. Rag joint rebuild
3. New tires/struts
4. Wheel bearings
5. Alignment

I've not done:

1. Steering box gear "lash" - assumed the tech did this properly
2. Steering linkages - can't see anything with slack
3. Control arm bushings/ball joints - I had a shop tell me they looked OK

The steering is still UPS-truck like. Not a definite center feel. It was pretty much this way when I bought the car. The steering box and rag joint jobs did improve it a bit but it is still way floaty.

I have:

New steering linkages kit (all pieces)
Replacement LCAs with new bushings and ball joints and new Moog 5662 springs

What would be the next most likely thing? The steering box adjustment seems easy but I have read to be careful. Maybe I should do that first?

rburrow87

iTrader: (1)

I improved mine a ton with a couple of things. The main thing was messing with the steering box "lash" as you called it, and then making sure the steering wheel is as close to centered as possible. I'm still not sure if the centered wheel is just placebo or if the steering gear's feel changes that much slightly off center though.

I rebuilt my box myself and followed the factory spec as closely as possible, but between assembly lube and new aftermarket seals, I can see it being not quite perfect after the initial assembly. I ended up adjusting mine quite a bit tighter later on (just recently in fact). Still not quite a modern rack and pinion sports car feel, but now it's pretty solid instead of floating around like an older lifted solid front axle Jeep. It still feels a bit soft on center and I have a feeling our cars are just that way with the stock box, and maybe because of the overall steering gear + linkage design. But I wouldn't really consider it sloppy.

You definitely don't want to run the lash over tightened, but it's not going to explode or ruin everything because you went a little too far and went on a quick test drive down the street. You only want to make small changes though, especially when it gets close to good. Like 1/4 turn increments if it's extremely sloppy, and 1/8 and less once you start noticing change. Just mark where it is now and note your changes so that you can revert back if things get weird.

If you're feeling straight up sloppiness, like you can move the steering wheel back and forth an unreasonable amount before there's any resistance with the engine off (or car movement if you're driving), then it's likely that you have one or more shot tie rod ends somewhere or that lash adjustment is just too loose, or a combination of both.

You can tell if you tightened it too much because the steering will kind of "stick" around center. You'll notice that it doesn't really return to center all the way on it's own when you're driving (assuming it mostly does now) and you'll find yourself having to slightly overshoot steering corrections and turn back the other way a touch to get it to go where you want because of the sticking. An abnormally tight tie rod end or ball joint can cause this feeling too.

Hopefully that makes sense. I find it difficult to describe and explain these kinds of things sometimes.

New steering linkage (and idler arm I hope) certainly won't hurt since you already have it. Alignment is important too of course. Do you know what specs they aligned it to by chance?

GASPEDDLER

iTrader: (2)

I had some center "slop" in my steering which was most noticeable on rough roads, I tended to have to chase the car in order to keep it centered in the lane. My steering/suspension system with the exception of the steering box was new or rebuilt so that eliminated most potential culprits. I did notice that when I turned the steering wheel slightly side to side from center that no movement occurred at the pitman arm which led me to believe the box was worn and required adjustment. I tightened the sector shaft adjustment screw clockwise one quarter turn only and I marked my beginning point and my finishing point before attempting to adjust. The adjustment removed about 50% of the slop out of the steering which allows me to control the car so much better on rough roads. My plan is to eventually send my box off to have it rebuilt, but for now I'm pleased with the results.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

Thank you both for the very detailed and helpful responses. I will give it a go and report back.

RJ IROC

Don't even think about touching that over-center adjustment unless you're absolutely positive the preload on the sector shaft was set properly. Should have been done when the box was out of the car. Tightening the over-center adjustment with an improper sector shaft preload is going to wreck the box. All tightening that set screw does is make the tapered gears mesh tighter. You'll still have slop in the steering system, but now it'll bind and be hard to turn.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure the rebuild was done properly. I stood right there and watched him. He's done hundreds of these boxes. Rebuilding the box, as mentioned, didn't improve the floaty center much so I'm thinking it wasn't bad to begin with.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ering-box.html

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What did you have the alignment set to?

If it's the stock specs, that's a big part of the problem.

Have them set it as follows:

Caster: L +4°, R +4.5° (or, as high as they can get it, with about a ½° split like that)
Camber: L -0.5°, R -1°
Toe: about .030" - .050" in (front of the tires that much closer together than the rear of the tires)

You can use less split on both, and SLIGHTLY more negative camber, if the roads where you usually drive are relatively flat (no high center crown). Seems like around most of LA they have a good bit of crown though, except on the freeways, so those specs should work out fairly well. Also be aware that the higher the positive caster, the farther the wheels will be sitting back in the wheel well, and therefore the worse the fender rub will be; which can't be helped, because in these cars, the way to increase caster is by moving the top of the strut rearwards.

The stock specs SUCK. They cause the vague center problem and rapid outside edge wear to the tires.