OK, so I haven't gotten to look at this yet.

My car is up getting the new Hawk's 17" GTA wheels and tires put on. While they're at it, I had them put the Hotchkiss 1" lowering springs on the car too.

Just got a call from the guy (he knows his ****). He said now the rear shocks are too long and the springs slip out of the cups when the wheels are off the ground. He says he's worried if I hit a really big bump on the street the springs would come out of the cups.

Is this a thing?

 

Sweet baby Jesus

 

Sorta... Just ask him to shorten the shocks for you and you'll be good to go.

Two easy solutions... First, realize that when the axle is hanging free, the car is off the ground. How often do you fly your thirdgen, Mr Knight? Second, if you're really worried about it, make and install some limiting straps. Limiting straps are old school band-aid tech for that exact problem. Basically a seatbelt style heavy duty strap with anchors at both ends that you attach to the frame and the axle or suspension on the other end so that the travel is limited and the springs can't pop out.

It's pretty much a non-issue. Just don't hit the turbo boost and you'll be fine.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEL-10309N

 

No he doesn't.

How far the axle droops is limited by how far the shocks extend. Different brand shocks extend different lengths. Just slap it together and run with it. The spring are not going to fall out unless you free fall from a mountain cliff.

If it really really really bothers you, then some of the original IROC shocks have shorter free length.

 

Reminds me of a trip to AZ where I ran up the switchbacks to Jerome. Fantastic drive!

If you want stock, I respect that, then yada, yada, yada. Buy your parts.

Modern tech advancements are showing up in coilovers. Traditional shock/spring combo just doesn't have good options for us. Prove me wrong!
Welding an attachment plate up in the spring perch will actually be an improvement in shock angle - it's slight, but an improvement. If you want to argue, go ahead, but I won't. The consideration is operating range - you need to know desired ride height. Coilovers have some adjustment, but not as much as commonly thought. You can adjust about 3/4" and stay in operation range. Know what you are doing. Be informed. They can eliminate the need for weight jacks in the rear - not the front.



The stock rear range is 16". Detroit Speed sells the Uber Jri at 2" drop. Full disclosure: I have the RideTech HQ6110 with 250# and a 19mm PHB.

I suggest that you purchase a quality coilover in your desired operating range and have several springs and PHB's to experiment with. Quality parts will be rebuildable and customizeable for your application (future tweaking as you learn). Bars are cheap from a JY, and two spring rates should help. No one can tell you exactly, you have to experiment. Be informed in your choices. Know your plans and goals. Dampahs and Rubbahs are primary. Every other part is in a support role/secondary role. Good Luck!

If performance isn't your thing, then strap them down and accept the performance loss. Springs support the weight, and shocks are basically a timing device - simplified explanation. If you're mismatched, then you are - bounce.
Most won't pay for quality, then want advice for achieving quality - yada, yada, yada.

 

Beltech shocks for 1-2" drop on the way.

While I may not be jumping as often as K.I.T.T., I don't want the springs dropping out of the pockets every time I rotate the tires.

 

Pick it up by the differential and they wont

 

Or put shock on it that match the shorter springs and never have to worry about it

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Bb168dICQAAKAA5.jpg

 

It's not a big deal unless the springs are super short.
I have UMIs weight Jack's and they are 1in or so below the spring perch with the rear end hanging. if I go too crazy at the autocross, I can hear the rears clunk back into the perch.
The spring can't really fall out.
If your worried, you can bolt down the spring on one end so it won't go anywhere.