Hey guys . I have a 2 part question..

Question 1

Im re installing my front end. Same old factory a arms, idler arm, pitman arm, front sway bar,spindles. Aftermarket ball joints, TRQ centerlink, tie rods & sleeves . It's up on Jack's without wheels, and the steering column is locked in position( steering wheel centered)

I turn the rotor assembly as straight as I can get it then try to install tie rods to spindles. The driver side is too long even though I reduced the tie rods as short as I can get them. The only way I can get the driver tie rod in is when I turn the rotor assembly out... but obviously it's not straight with the steering column locked... Anybody know what I can do to correct this??

Question 2

If one rotor assembly is looser than the other, will this be ok?? I think I tightened the passenger side balljoint up tighter than the driver side.

 

I'm not 100% sure what you're saying, but let me try to help. I may have more questions than answers until I know more.

1. Did you remove the steering linkage (center link and tie rods) as an assembly and match your new parts up so they were exactly the same length as the ones you took out?
2. You didn't take the Pitman arm off the steering box, did you? Is the Pitman facing straight toward the front of the car?

 

1. Yes.and I matched centerlink and tie rods were matched as close as I could to get them to fit

2. Pitman arm was never removed. Its facing toward the engine I believe because I have the steering wheel in locked position

 

Does the passenger side line up right?

How close were you able to match the length of the tie rods compared to what was in the car?

 

Yes, passenger side lines up fine.

I'll double check the size comparison on both old and new tie rods when I get home

 

The steering is turned WWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY left. Like maybe one full turn of the wheel.

The Pitman and idler arms should both point straight front-to-rear at the "center".

 

Yep, first pic shows it clearly. Get the steering wheel centered and everything should fit.

 

Ok . I readjusted everything. The steering wheel looks straight to me. Here are the pics, tell me how this looks...



idler arm

Pittman arm



Passenger side


Driver side

 

That looks much better. The tie rod adjustments even look just about equal on the 2 sides.

Everything fit now?

 

Yes, I just tweaked the driver side a tad in to match passenger side... now I'm trying to screw the tie rod nuts on

 

There ya go.

 

What about question #2?
It feels ok to turn by steering wheel...


Also, the stud on the new tie rods are shorter than the old ones.. Is this normal?? Its like I cant get the nut started enough to screw on..

 

You could try sqweeezing them together with a C-clamp, yuuujjjje Channellocks, etc.

You're asking about "rotor assembly", but then talking about how much you tightened the ball joint nut. That isn't clear, makes no sense. Explain what you mean.

 

What I mean is when I move the spindle with my hand left to right one side is a little tighter than the other side

 

Are you saying that with the tie rods disconnected but the ball joint nuts tight, you are rotating the steering knuckle at the ball joint and one side feels like it has less resistance?

Were you able to torque the ball joint nuts to spec? If so you should be fine. Even if you didn't torque them, as long as you get them close to the same it should be ok once you get your cotter pin in place.

 

Are you sure you have the tie rods in the right positions? I think the inner and outer tie rod studs are different lengths.

 

Yes that's what I'm saying.

I cant fit a torque ratchet there so I had to use a regular wrench. They should be at least spec but I tighten the passenger side a little more than driver side. The driver side has less resistance

 

yup, that was it... thanks

 

The amount you tighten the nut doesn't affect anything about the actual ball joints. They're probably just slightly different from each other as manufactured, but they'll loosen up right away with use and load.

Yes the inners and outers are different lengths; because the pieces they have to go through are different thicknesses. The spindle is thicker IIRC so the outer has a longer stud. But regardless, how much you tighten them won't affect how they work, within reason.

 

Ok thanks

 

Also, did you change the upper strut mounts? There are ball bearings in them that allow the spindle/strut assembly to rotate left and right. If these are old, it could contribute to different amount of resistance turning the left vs the right spindle.

 

The struts and strut mounts are new