1983 Trans Am alignment
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 2,434
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 1983 Trans Am alignment
OK if your roads have a VERY high crown. It's going to tend strongly to drift left on flat roads, with that much split.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 2,434
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 1983 Trans Am alignment
Those are quite similar to what you already have, and also reasonable; but with those, since they call for no split at all, if your roads have a high crown, the car will drift to the right (fall off the crown) seriously.
On most typical roads in the US, seems like both caster and camber split between a quarter and a half degree is about right. The higher values on the right wheel.
Be aware also, increasing the positive caster moves the wheel rearward in the well, which makes the rubbing right in front of the rocker panels below the doors worse.
For myself I like +4 - 4.25° L caster, +4.5° R caster; -.5 - .75° L camber, -1° R camber; .050" total toe inward. Not sure what that toe spec works out to in degrees.
Keep in mind that there's no "one" "right" spec for this, like the tire shops would have you believe when they display "spec" on "computer". It's a kind of a tuning situation: start with something within a reasonable range, vary it, see what results you get. What someone else likes might not be your preference at all. Some people will accept higher tire wear in exchange for better handling, or the rubbing, or other problems that can develop; some people just want the car to drive as straight as possible; some people like a strong return to center; some people HATE when the car tracks pavement features or is sensitive to left/right level of the road; and so forth. Alignment specs create trade-offs in all of those properties.
On most typical roads in the US, seems like both caster and camber split between a quarter and a half degree is about right. The higher values on the right wheel.
Be aware also, increasing the positive caster moves the wheel rearward in the well, which makes the rubbing right in front of the rocker panels below the doors worse.
For myself I like +4 - 4.25° L caster, +4.5° R caster; -.5 - .75° L camber, -1° R camber; .050" total toe inward. Not sure what that toe spec works out to in degrees.
Keep in mind that there's no "one" "right" spec for this, like the tire shops would have you believe when they display "spec" on "computer". It's a kind of a tuning situation: start with something within a reasonable range, vary it, see what results you get. What someone else likes might not be your preference at all. Some people will accept higher tire wear in exchange for better handling, or the rubbing, or other problems that can develop; some people just want the car to drive as straight as possible; some people like a strong return to center; some people HATE when the car tracks pavement features or is sensitive to left/right level of the road; and so forth. Alignment specs create trade-offs in all of those properties.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Jul 15, 2020 at 12:03 PM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 387
Likes: 141
Re: 1983 Trans Am alignment
The alignment specs pic ppl post is a bit outdated.
you also want Solid strut tower mounts, they are superior to the stock rubber ones in ride quality, handling, and alignments.
And if you have stock Steering, I suggest getting the PROFORGED kit and rebuilding it.
worn linkage will make any alignment feel like crap.
My recommendation
Stock street car:
+5 caster pass and driver side
-0.5Deg camber
0.1 degrees Toe in
Hard street:
-1.0 camber
+6.0 caster
0.05 degree toe in
Autocross only:
As much - neg camber as you can get
If you can run -3.0 do it.
+6.0 Caster
0.2 degree Toe OUT
Road course
As much - neg camber you can run
+6.0 caster
Zero Toe in
The old Alignment Pic specs are too aggressive on the toe in.
3/32 toe in is WAY more than you need and it will wear out tires faster than camber will. I've used 0.05 and 0.00 Toe in and have ZERO freeway steering wondering.
you also want Solid strut tower mounts, they are superior to the stock rubber ones in ride quality, handling, and alignments.
And if you have stock Steering, I suggest getting the PROFORGED kit and rebuilding it.
worn linkage will make any alignment feel like crap.
My recommendation
Stock street car:
+5 caster pass and driver side
-0.5Deg camber
0.1 degrees Toe in
Hard street:
-1.0 camber
+6.0 caster
0.05 degree toe in
Autocross only:
As much - neg camber as you can get
If you can run -3.0 do it.
+6.0 Caster
0.2 degree Toe OUT
Road course
As much - neg camber you can run
+6.0 caster
Zero Toe in
The old Alignment Pic specs are too aggressive on the toe in.
3/32 toe in is WAY more than you need and it will wear out tires faster than camber will. I've used 0.05 and 0.00 Toe in and have ZERO freeway steering wondering.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post