So 2 things I think, if I want to add a moderately modified 350 to just be updated and make some more power over the stock 305 how much would the car handle without modification, I'm assuming not much due to the t tops. Now i dont have a welder and i dont trust my friends to weld it so how much have you heard of shops charging to weld them on.

Also what brand subframe connectors do you recommend. I'm doing this before swapping the engine because the engine may be junk and the subframe connectors are just good, but as it is a t top are there other supporting mods I should do to the frame to make sure it doesn't bend or would some good weld in subframe connectors be fine.

 

I won't try to tell you what to do, but I can tell you what worked for me.

The stub frame and unibody design is inherently weak, especially at the steering gear and where the frame meets the suspension components both front and rear. Sub frame connectors enhance the overall longitudinal strength of the car, which is important when adding power (or weight). The best sub frame connectors I have installed are the SBC ones, and I have no idea if they are still in production or not, bot they bolt and weld to the rear lower control links and weld to the sub frame in the front. Welding in the front is unavoidable and desirable as there are no good tie in points forward for these links.

When I dropped a built 350 into my car (ZZ4 with some add ons, figure 300ish to the wheels), the first casualty was the transmission, then the rear end. After fixing those, the frame cracked at the steering gear (after installing SFCs). The torsional load from a powerful engine will twist the frame significantly, and I would encourage you to have a good shop weld in SFCs to prevent issues, at my shop I would charge somewhere in the $600 neighborhood for that job as the carpet on the passenger side has to be removed to prevent burning for the proper weld to happen, and the hardware for the lower control arms installs around them. The benefits are less creaking when traversing terrain and a more consistent thrust angle.

Any brand sub frame that ties in the rear suspension and connects directly to the front stub is good, but the welding is critical. No normal shop would take that job, look for a hot rod or welding shop with a lift to do a proper weld if you plan to farm it out.

 

Good info Berlinetta00, but what does "SBC" stand for?

No offense to Berlinetta00 and others, but English 101 directs that the first time an abbreviation is used, the full text should be included. This is often skipped, in many forums.

IE "I paid my Pacific Gas and Electric bill today" (PG&E). PG&E is a large provider of natural gas and electricity.

No, I am not an English Major. I am a Retired Police Officer who HAD to learn to write proper reports, to get them approved by the Sgt. (Sergeant) and read by a DDA (Deputy District Attorney) !

 

Sorry for the confusion, that was an old brand that apparently no longer exists. These are very similar and would work well, about the same price for installation. https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-...bolt-weld-bmr/

 

Thanks for the update, Berlinetta00 !

 

After putting a 350 small block into my 84 I cracked the body behind the T Tops I would highly recommend sub frame connectors. I have installed UMI sub fames twice I like them

 

I have also installed the UMI sub frame connectors twice, and I like them too.

 

Sooooo, what does IE mean?

 

It means "That is".

You got me!