i am building a 1988 iroc-z drag car and i was wondering if 350 horsepower is enough to need to install subframe connectors

 

Sub-frame connectors are a recommended modification for all third gens due to the flexible chassis.

So, just get them asap

 

Exactly... Regardless of power level, roof (t-tops or not), and intended use; all 3rd gens can use subframe connectors.

 

my only regret about my UMI sub frame connectors was not putting them on sooner. Night and day difference they made in my car

 

I added connectors from S&W racecars and could feel the difference when we backed the car out of the shop.

 

subframe connecters may be next on my list, recommended brands,parts, part numbers, places to get deals,all help is greatly appreciated


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Had great luck with the UMI subframe connectors. Highly recommended.

 

Dont get hotchkis...had them on a car years ago and they fit weird.

Get a nice straight piece from a good company. Umi...spohn...etc

 

i have put on UMI, Spohn, Jegster, Comp Eng, Lakewood, and have built my own...

i like the spohn the best out of all of them, but they still need some small teaking, as i don't really care to try to weld round tubing to a flat floor, so i typically add a flange to the front mounting area. just get them non powdercoated, cause their powdercoat is stupid thick, and takes quite a bit to get it to come off in the areas that you need to weld on. just blast it with your favorite color once their in.

otherwise, i won't hesitate to built my own again.

the only thing i haven't done yet is some thru-floor type...i haven't gotten adventurous to cut into a floor yet, lol

 

i read that bolt-on kits arnt worth it. and welding is about the only thing my buddies charge me for. so the easiest to install weld-in kit is what id be looking for. easier for him cheaper for me.


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Do you have any pics of your own built ones? On and off the car if you have both. I'll be fabricating my own this winter. I was considering using square tubing instead of round for that exact reason. Thoughts?

 

You mean like this?

 

not quite...i was thinking more like 2x4 box tubing running down the perimeter that you could weld the floor to and a tie a roll cage into.

phoenix, i don't have any real clean pictures of the ones i built....i do this stuff on jackstands and it's a bit tough to get a clear shot unless the car ends up on a lift later.

here's the one picture i have

 

Thanks, that'll work as a good starting point for me. I'll be doing mine off jackstands aswell, so I completely understand lol. What size is that tubing?

 

I got the Alstons, I love them.

 

1 3/4" x .083" i believe.

 

The ones from S&W racecars are round tubing. They attach at the rear torque boxes, forward where the trans mount bolt to the frame rail, to the outter lip of the rocker panel and throught the floor below both front seats. They also provide a mount that moves the torque arm off the trans mount. I bought both when I did mine. I used a friends lift in his shop and got them install in about 4 hours. Mine are completely bolt in but could easily be welded if you desire. I did not in case I decided to switch cars later down the road. As i said before the change was remarkable. Car felt more solid when I backed it out of the shop. Also the car flat hooks at the drag strip. every thing else is still pretty much factory suspension, I am even still running factory trailing arms. Car hooks and goes. May the only down side is the rear where the connector mounts the the torque box hangs a little low--has not hung on any thing but some guys may not like the cosmetics of it. System was not very expensive and S&W were very easy to deal with.
I bought Frame connector, torque arm and twp 8 point roll bars and have been very satisfied. Roll bar fit like it was custom bent for the car.

 

i've used an s&w roll bar kit in an 89 RS a couple years ago, and i was also pleased with their fit. i'm going to get their bent door bars for my car probably cause i can't use my door handles with the straight bars i have in there now.

 

I had to remove the arm rests also. I am not sure that the bent door bars would help, I have never seen them in a 3rd gen. Aside from the arm rests, which I had planned on having to remove every thing else fit really well. A little pushing and pulling t get everything lined up with the frame connectors but for a car that had been handled ruff and has 96k miles they went right in