94 to 84 steering bearing swap
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Car: One Chevy built in the 80s
Engine: 5.7 crate
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9” 3.70
94 to 84 steering bearing swap
Maybe an odd question but I’m rebuilding a 94 Firehawk and I want to replace the worn out plastic/rubber steering shaft lower “bearing” on my 84Z. Is it compatible to take the 4th gen metal bearing assembly and swap it over to the 84? Metal bearing in my opinion would be better quality than whatever this plastic thing is GM put in back then. Thoughts?
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From: Franklin, KY near Beech Bend Raceway, Corvette Plant and Museum.
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Re: 94 to 84 steering bearing swap
Not exactly what you asked for but may be of interest to you.
Wolff Engineering M109SS Lower Steering Column Cartridge Bearing for Saginaw columns with 2" jacket and 1" shaft.
Wolff Engineering M109SS Lower Steering Column Cartridge Bearing for Saginaw columns with 2" jacket and 1" shaft.
Last edited by Airwolfe; Oct 24, 2024 at 04:01 AM.
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Re: 94 to 84 steering bearing swap
I don't know about a 4th gen, but I know that the bearing used in the Astro vans and possibly related trucks (S10...) do fit, they use the same column.
Is it a good swap, well I've done it, but I'm not sure. It goes about the same as getting rid of the rag joint, and replacing clutch pilot bushings with bearings... things I've done before. The bearing version is more precise and therefore is more fussy about alignment and assembly. You end up with smoother operation and better durability if things are aligned correctly, but a more fussy install and problem if they are not perfect. if misaligned causing the bearing to wear abnormally they will get destroyed, noisy, and possibly take out the shafts they ride on, where bushings just wallow out a little and keep going. In all cases, you end up transferring more engine/drivetrain noise into the passenger compartment. Installing the bearing will let you hear/feel the power steering pump working through the steering column/wheel.
OTOH, my car has the bearing installed, no rag joint, pilot bearing, solid motor mounts, every brace you can think of, solid custom-made suspension links, very little poly in the suspension, and no rubber, weight jacks + coil overs and 305/30-18s and I often drive it around with headers and open cutouts. Is one more bit of harshness even going to be noticed?
Is it a good swap, well I've done it, but I'm not sure. It goes about the same as getting rid of the rag joint, and replacing clutch pilot bushings with bearings... things I've done before. The bearing version is more precise and therefore is more fussy about alignment and assembly. You end up with smoother operation and better durability if things are aligned correctly, but a more fussy install and problem if they are not perfect. if misaligned causing the bearing to wear abnormally they will get destroyed, noisy, and possibly take out the shafts they ride on, where bushings just wallow out a little and keep going. In all cases, you end up transferring more engine/drivetrain noise into the passenger compartment. Installing the bearing will let you hear/feel the power steering pump working through the steering column/wheel.
OTOH, my car has the bearing installed, no rag joint, pilot bearing, solid motor mounts, every brace you can think of, solid custom-made suspension links, very little poly in the suspension, and no rubber, weight jacks + coil overs and 305/30-18s and I often drive it around with headers and open cutouts. Is one more bit of harshness even going to be noticed?
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