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Mine are on. Couple things -
1. I am using the CTSv2 brakes. I had the center of the rotor hat (two piece) opened up to fit over the C7 hub and it worked despite the slight difference in bolt pattern
2. The stock outer tie had minimal thread engagement so I changed that out for the UMI bumpsteer kit and that worked
3. The QA1 proformas needed ~1/16" material removed at the strut mount area on both sides. Seth said thats basically the only strut they didnt test with, my luck ha
4. Had to remove just a little bit of material around the caliper mounting bracket to clear the CTSv2 caliper
Everything else worked out well. Now I can finally get my wheels made.
Any pics of all these small details, and/or your final install?
I plan on using QA1 struts, so any insight on those would be particularly helpful.
Once you put the strut on you can’t see where the mounting area is shaved but I do have a pic of the caliper clearance and the bump steer. And the c7 hub under some sweet guni wheels ha.
Mine are on. Couple things -
1. I am using the CTSv2 brakes. I had the center of the rotor hat (two piece) opened up to fit over the C7 hub and it worked despite the slight difference in bolt pattern
2. The stock outer tie had minimal thread engagement so I changed that out for the UMI bumpsteer kit and that worked
3. The QA1 proformas needed ~1/16" material removed at the strut mount area on both sides. Seth said thats basically the only strut they didnt test with, my luck ha
4. Had to remove just a little bit of material around the caliper mounting bracket to clear the CTSv2 caliper
Everything else worked out well. Now I can finally get my wheels made.
- What is that big orange wheel?
- Are the QA1 shocks adjustable in their mounts similar to the DSE units? Basically can the strut body be threaded in or out of the strut mounting bracket or is it all one piece?
- I will use the bumpsteer kit as you did. Seems like a great solution.
- I won't be using those calipers, but nice to see any issues will be a bit of a dremel job here or there.
Thanks for taking the time to post the images. Can't wait to be at that stage on my build.
They are solid tires. Again, they're explicitly for rolling around a shop. They have a giant offset to clear even the biggest brakes and a universal bolt pattern to fit a bunch of cars
Saw those pics on their website. Great idea!
As someone that plans to buy 3 piece custom wheels and currently don't have any wheels at all, I may need something like this.
That being said, for a hobby builder that most likely won't use them much, they seem like overkill for me.
Hope I can get my car off the rotisserie and onto jack stands, then attach suspension and brakes, and order my custom wheels and skip needing these since I have a dedicated garage bay for my build.
They're still listed, but the date has been pushed back. They didn't make a lot of sets to start with, so maybe they're sold already and making more. I think they didn't want to hang themselves out to dry if people didn't buy them.
But now they're listed as complete kits, with options for rotors, calipers, hubs. You can still buy just the knuckles, but they've made it easier for people to buy complete kits.
Also, they've added separate listings for the Brembo calipers for Corvette, Camaro and Cadillac.
I did remove the original listing from the website. I made separate listings based on which caliper you want to run. I was getting a lot of calls and questions about which parts work with what so I decided to make separate listings for all the different options.
This link will take you to the new group of listings. I'm still working on getting everything here to be able to offer the "Complete Kits" so right now you can basically choose the kit you would want to run and supply your own calipers and rotors based on that kit. As soon as the parts start trickling in I'll be able to offer the complete kits where you can order the spindles, bearings, rotors, calipers, pads and stainless brake lines all in one shot.
We have shipped a few sets of these out to the initial customers that ordered them quickly. We are just waiting on the complete order of these spindles to arrive before we can ship all standing orders for them. I'm trying to keep that "Pre-Order/Release Date" as accurate as I can with the information I have.
I was actually on the website today poking around. Looks very promising. I can finally have a one-stop-shop to get spindles, rotors, calipers, bearings and lines.
Looks like a bit more time is needed though as every permutation I bothered selecting was of of stock.
Last edited by dennisbernal91z; Aug 21, 2025 at 09:25 AM.
I did remove the original listing from the website. I made separate listings based on which caliper you want to run. I was getting a lot of calls and questions about which parts work with what so I decided to make separate listings for all the different options.
This link will take you to the new group of listings. I'm still working on getting everything here to be able to offer the "Complete Kits" so right now you can basically choose the kit you would want to run and supply your own calipers and rotors based on that kit. As soon as the parts start trickling in I'll be able to offer the complete kits where you can order the spindles, bearings, rotors, calipers, pads and stainless brake lines all in one shot.
We have shipped a few sets of these out to the initial customers that ordered them quickly. We are just waiting on the complete order of these spindles to arrive before we can ship all standing orders for them. I'm trying to keep that "Pre-Order/Release Date" as accurate as I can with the information I have.
I’m curious—does an option currently exist that works with 4th-gen wheels, or is there one you guys are working on? I’m running a 4th-gen rear end and it’s much easier to stick with 4th-gen wheels, but if there’s a way to avoid using adapters that’d be awesome and might even help reduce some of my vibration issues. Ideally I’d like to run LS1 brakes too since my wheels are 17x9.5 ZR1s. A lot of people are running 4th-gen wheels, so having a kit or solution for this would really streamline the whole front hub/wheel fitment situation, make it safer, and even allow people with 4th-gen wheels to do more with their cars than you can with adapters. I’d definitely be interested if that kind of kit or solution became available.
Fyi this Wilwood brake kit for C5 and C6 Corvettes will fit the spindles no mods necessary. These are 18x10.5 OE Replica Wheels.
I did need a longer tie rod adjuster.
Also the strut does mount higher on the spindle than the stock spindle reducing the travel. If you use Viking struts you can loosen the bolts and nuts on the strut mount and screw the strut body down to recover the lost travel. https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...ion=C-6+-+Base
Fyi this Wilwood brake kit for C5 and C6 Corvettes will fit the spindles no mods necessary. These are 18x10.5 OE Replica Wheels.
I did need a longer tie rod adjuster.
Also the strut does mount higher on the spindle than the stock spindle reducing the travel. If you use Viking struts you can loosen the bolts and nuts on the strut mount and screw the strut body down to recover the lost travel. https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...ion=C-6+-+Base
That's amazing! I just posted yesterday in the brake forum that I wonder if this would work!
I can't state how many hours of time I have spent looking all over the internet for the brakes for my resto mod '91 Z28.
Think this just might fit the bill.
I want a "turn key" solution for front and rear from a single source. Wilwood does have a very proven track record so that is a huge plus.
They also offer various options for rear calipers. Need to sort out what would work on my Moser 12 bolt (that I want to run an E-brake on).
Anyways, thanks so much for sharing that this is possible!
I can relate to the challenges you’re describing, and I agree that the lack of coordination between multiple EU suppliers can create unnecessary delays and costs when preparing large export projects. Centralizing procurement and export prep would definitely streamline things, especially when you’re dealing with cross-border shipments into West Africa.
I hate trying to get shipments across boarders of west Africa. It's miserable, every time I have issues. East Africa is much easier. The forum should absolutely try and centralize procedures to avoid this in the future.
Last edited by Firechicken82; Sep 14, 2025 at 08:00 PM.
I installed my spindles this weekend and it was straight forward enough. Just a few notes:
-Koni struts are a tight fit, it took some prying on both the flange and holes to draw the 2 together. Im sure others will be the same.
-The car sits LOW now, my jack was stuck under the car. Fortunately I have an old set of Ground Control weight jacks.
-As mentioned, the tie rod adjusters are too short now. I bought 6" aluminum threaded tubes from Summit.
The threaded tubes should arrive tomorrow, I have an alignment scheduled for Wednesday, and hopefully an autocross on Saturday!
Did you notice if the spindle is taller? Someone mentioned the strut mounts higher that stock. Might explain why the car sat lower afterward.
Do you think youll need a bump steer kit now?
I installed my spindles this weekend and it was straight forward enough. Just a few notes:
-Koni struts are a tight fit, it took some prying on both the flange and holes to draw the 2 together. Im sure others will be the same.
-The car sits LOW now, my jack was stuck under the car. Fortunately I have an old set of Ground Control weight jacks.
-As mentioned, the tie rod adjusters are too short now. I bought 6" aluminum threaded tubes from Summit.
The threaded tubes should arrive tomorrow, I have an alignment scheduled for Wednesday, and hopefully an autocross on Saturday!
Great comparison pics. Really shows the difference. Please port more pics once you get the new tie rod adjusters and get the car on the ground. Interested in the final layout, especially when the wheels are lock to lock. Wondering if anything hits or gets close.
Can you share what PN you bought for the tie rod sleeves?
I went with the all-star 6" threaded tubes, 5/8-18. But I would recommend the coleman instead, the difference is thicker wall with hex on both ends (opposed to flats on one end and a knurl on the other).
I'm at my alignment shop now and with factory spindles I was at -2.8 camber. Yes, I know thats a ton, but autocross life. With the new Hawks spindles I'm maxed at -1.3 and -1.6 degrees. I modifies my upper strut mounts and the top of the strut is REALLY close to the opening in the strut tower... and master cylinder.
I'm at my alignment shop now and with factory spindles I was at -2.8 camber. Yes, I know thats a ton, but autocross life. With the new Hawks spindles I'm maxed at -1.3 and -1.6 degrees. I modifies my upper strut mounts and the top of the strut is REALLY close to the opening in the strut tower... and master cylinder.
Any one else run into this?
I did notice both the ride hieght lower and less camber. My control arms have rod ends so I screwed them out a little further to get some back
Mine are a modified set of BMR control arms. I cut the poly ends off and welded fittings on for rod ends.
I have never seen that center spring perch. Is that stock on the BMR units? When I check their website they look different.
I ask because my build is about to get to front suspension and I am going to be running RideTech Air Ride, but would love to not have to run stock A-arms.
That being said, the stock ones are what they built the kit for (naturally) so I may keep it stock with upgraded bushings etc.
But since I want to run 15" front brakes from Wilwood I need the Hawks spindle and if it needs more adjustability to get alignment right, then I may need to look into other options.
Guessing street alignments are fine with it, right?
I have never seen that center spring perch. Is that stock on the BMR units? When I check their website they look different.
I ask because my build is about to get to front suspension and I am going to be running RideTech Air Ride, but would love to not have to run stock A-arms.
That being said, the stock ones are what they built the kit for (naturally) so I may keep it stock with upgraded bushings etc.
But since I want to run 15" front brakes from Wilwood I need the Hawks spindle and if it needs more adjustability to get alignment right, then I may need to look into other options.
Guessing street alignments are fine with it, right?
Its modified. The spring perch is the standard diameter different manufacturer. The curved part if the arm is curved more to allow tire clearance. The sway bar mount is my own design due to the arm 2" wider it needed to move. As is the steering stop I'm the back which is adjustable. Also I made all the internal bracing for strength.
Just a quick report after my first autocross on the new spindles, possibly one of the first autocrosses on them ever?
I was tentative on my first run trying to feel out the new limit and expecting the turn in to feel drastically different. I'm surprised to say that car wasn't as bad as I expected with the lack of camber. For reference I was at 2.8/2.9 degrees with the factory spindles but only able to get 1.3/1.6 degrees with Hawk's. My upper strut mounts are modified to lean the strut in as far as I dare before the body of the strut hits the opening in the strut tower. The tower itself still has the original mounting holes.
Turn in felt better, probably due to the much shorter steering arms. Transitioning felt solid too. Overall front grip was noticeably lower so I'll have to come up with something to fix the camber.
My codriver and I have the same comments about how the car feels before and after, we had 5 runs each to get used to the spindles and I'm sure we'll get better with more seat time.
Also, both front tires developed blisters on the outside shoulders. The tires have about 75 runs on them, so it was just a matter of time, but I still felt the camber issue accelerated this problem.
My rotors are rubbing on the caliper bracket as they're not centered on each other. I bought Raybestos 56701 and 56700 rotors with FRC11142 and FRC11141 rebuilt calipers, the hubs are Xtracker BR930544.
Just a quick report after my first autocross on the new spindles, possibly one of the first autocrosses on them ever?
I was tentative on my first run trying to feel out the new limit and expecting the turn in to feel drastically different. I'm surprised to say that car wasn't as bad as I expected with the lack of camber. For reference I was at 2.8/2.9 degrees with the factory spindles but only able to get 1.3/1.6 degrees with Hawk's. My upper strut mounts are modified to lean the strut in as far as I dare before the body of the strut hits the opening in the strut tower. The tower itself still has the original mounting holes.
Turn in felt better, probably due to the much shorter steering arms. Transitioning felt solid too. Overall front grip was noticeably lower so I'll have to come up with something to fix the camber.
My codriver and I have the same comments about how the car feels before and after, we had 5 runs each to get used to the spindles and I'm sure we'll get better with more seat time.
Also, both front tires developed blisters on the outside shoulders. The tires have about 75 runs on them, so it was just a matter of time, but I still felt the camber issue accelerated this problem.
My rotors are rubbing on the caliper bracket as they're not centered on each other. I bought Raybestos 56701 and 56700 rotors with FRC11142 and FRC11141 rebuilt calipers, the hubs are Xtracker BR930544.
That's good to know that these Hawks hubs might potentially limit Camber.
If you autocross or road race a McPherson strut car, you need a pretty much a minimum of -3.0 camber.
I ran -3.8 with A052s, -3.4 with RE71RS.
I'm still unsure what I want to do on my car to fix the pad knock-back.
Surprisingly, with all the flex I had in the spindle I never had any pad knockback with C4 HD brakes!
Floating calipers tend to handle knock-back better than solid mounted calipers.
Pad Knock-back is not confidence inspiring when I'm double pumping the brakes at 150mph on track. Bad for brake temps as well.
A F1 engineer had some ideas to make the oem spindle better flex wise. I might go that route and see if I can minimize the flexing.
From the latest posts, does anyone have any concerns for a street car or show car build?
I don't plan to autocross my resto mod, but I also don't want to run into any strange issues down the line getting an alignment or even if I push the car hard on the street coming home from a show.
I don't think there would be any concerns in a street car. The spindles are beefy looking and if you're not picky about the camber you can probably get half a degree negative... maybe more if you have aftermarket strut mounts.
Current plan is to run these along with QA1 caster/camber plates, and QA1 struts. Stock lower control arms and Air Ride Technologies front air bags.
Only reason I haven't ordered these spindles is a still waiting to see if anyone else has issues (and I have other parts of the car to work on in the meantime)
The QA1 caster camber plates clear aftermarket MCs (I have a wilwood on) out of the box, which is a nice benefit vs having to cut and square off the other round aftermarket caps.
I had never heard of the iBoost before. Very interesting.
Looks a bit bulky from the Bosch website. But after looking up how much it costs, I can't find new ones. There are many used ones for sale on eBay.
I am sure if I went to a parts dealer, and looked up a replacement, maybe I could find a new one that way.
For my restomod I plan to keep things fairly tame, so not sure there is justification for such a complex system when I know I will have vacuum available.
Could also just run manual brakes if I really want to keep things simple under the hood.
Anyways, sorry for the sidetrack. Back on topic. Has anyone else installed these spindles on something with a more "street" alignment?
