I'm getting ready to build some kind of engine for my 92 RS T-top car and I only have the original Spohn rectangle sub-frame connectors. Also have a Strange S60 rear with 3.73 gears, I don't want to do anymore to the chassis so what should I limit torque too on the new engine to prevent twisting the frame too much? I will be using a TKX 5-speed. Not a race car just fun street.

 

The best subframe connectors are the Detroit Speed units. They truly box the car in make it incredibly stiff. There will be no set value of "power" that will alter the shape of the car. It will be a combo of things from traction, power usage of car, etc. Subframes connectors and a strut tower brace go a long way on these cars.

 

Made 670 ftlbs to the tires with only a bolt in set of subframe connectors in a t-top car. Zero signs of issues.

 

OK, just looking for 500 ft.lb. anyway. I guess I'll be ok. Just don't want to twist anything.

 

The car is going to "suffer" more twisting, driving it through a gutter entering a gas station, than it will from your torky engine. This is, as I like to say, "Worryin' about chit that ain't worth worryin' about".

 

I'm a T Top car with only boxed BMR subframe connectors and I'm pushing 850-900 HP without issue. That being said an 8 point cage is next up in the spring

 

I'm considering the Jegs brand SFC for about $300. Does anyone have experience with these? My T Top car has some salt damage and rattles badly. It was crashed into a ditch hard by the prior owner but rides fine and seems to drive straight after new tires and alignment. Mine is a daily driver not a race car.

JEGS Bolt-On Subframe Connector Set for 1982-1992 Chevy Camaro & Pontiac Firebird

Part Number: 555-64714

 

I've had these in my car for several years. They stiffen things up pretty good. You can weld them in if you choose to.

 

boy they are expensive but look decent.

 

Its a tremendous amount of fabrication work, but are simply incredible when installed. Fully welded down the length of the car. I can get three wheels off rhe ground from one jacking point.

 

How do these look/fit with the carpet reinstalled? I just assumed that the factory carpet wouldn't fit anymore, but it looks like you've got it in your car.

 

You don't even notice them and they only protrude a slight bit into the interior (where wiring goes, but I diverted it through the center console). As good as my fabricator was they welded the seat belt bolt bracket on backwards so the plastic interior cover doesn't fit well. Shouldn't be a problem . I just need to drill a hole and use a rivet to secure it like it came from the factory.