If you have SFCs...
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
If you have SFCs...
... Did your passenger-side SFC (Spohn SFC, to be specific) install so close to your y-pipe that the y-pipe bumps it when you put the car in reverse (ie engine rotates just enough)? You can in the picture see how tight the y-pipe / psgr SFC clearance is on mine - is this right? It seems OK I'm worried about the long-term effects of having the exhaust pipe nail the SFC every time I put it in reverse.
You just gotta re-position your y-pipe (mentioned in the instructions). Loosen the y-pipe connections to the collectors and to the cat.
This is easier with 2 people. With the connections loose, pull the y-pipe away from the SFC using a small pry bar, piece of wood, etc. While holding it in that position re-tighten all the y-pipe connections. The y-pipe will pretty much stay in the same position you were holding it in after everything is tightened up.
Steve
This is easier with 2 people. With the connections loose, pull the y-pipe away from the SFC using a small pry bar, piece of wood, etc. While holding it in that position re-tighten all the y-pipe connections. The y-pipe will pretty much stay in the same position you were holding it in after everything is tightened up.
Steve
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Uh, oh!
And if, say, your y-pipe is welded to your cat? (and cat to i-pipe as well) pls, no comments about how that was a bad idea in the first place.
why not stuff a piece of rubber , like a exhaust hanger between the y-pipe/SFC ?
only problem there could be that the exhaust would/might set it on fire , lol, but rubber isn't all that flammable , hehe
it's a ghetto solution but it would work
only problem there could be that the exhaust would/might set it on fire , lol, but rubber isn't all that flammable , hehe
it's a ghetto solution but it would work
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
LOL that was the only thing that came to my mind when this started happening. I think it would melt and smell aweful, tho. Also, if they were in contact like that all the time, exhuast vibration would be xmitted into the frame/body all the time, right? Supreme Member
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
as mentioned before the correct way to do it would be to loosen the exhaust and reposition it. Or if you want to get lazy about it just stick something between it.
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by grafx
as mentioned before the correct way to do it would be to loosen the exhaust and reposition it.
as mentioned before the correct way to do it would be to loosen the exhaust and reposition it.
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Ya, cutting it = 10sec, but welding it back together == paying my friend @ exhaust shop b/c I don't have a MIG welder... oh well, I'm picking up the vibe that this is my only option (other than to leave it banging). I should have known better - it all seemed too painless an install.
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My y-pipe had some clearence issues with my frame directly under the oil pan. When we assembled the y-pipe we didn't notice it untill after we welded every thing up.
We heated up the pipe until it was red hot and just bent it in a little with a crow bar. This might impeade flow a little, but not too bad. If you do this just be extra careful what you heat up with the tourch, this can damage a number of differnt parts, duh.
We heated up the pipe until it was red hot and just bent it in a little with a crow bar. This might impeade flow a little, but not too bad. If you do this just be extra careful what you heat up with the tourch, this can damage a number of differnt parts, duh.
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From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
If it only bumps when you put it in reverse I would just live with it.
How often do you shift in reverse anyway?
I had my exhuast re-worked at the same time my SFC's were installed and I bought the modified ones from Spohn so it was never an issue. However I don't think a shop would charge to much $$$ to adjust it.
IMO welding is the best way to install and secure exhaust pipes, unless you have a reason to constantly change it (like removing the cat)
How often do you shift in reverse anyway?
I had my exhuast re-worked at the same time my SFC's were installed and I bought the modified ones from Spohn so it was never an issue. However I don't think a shop would charge to much $$$ to adjust it.
IMO welding is the best way to install and secure exhaust pipes, unless you have a reason to constantly change it (like removing the cat)
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From: Oklahoma city
Car: 90 irocz
Engine: 350tip
Transmission: 700r4
My cats are doing the smae thing in two places. I had the spohn dual cat sfc's and theyir great..but when i put the slp 1 3/4's in the cats touch in two places..while idleing in anygear (the rumble of the engine I suppose). Ive been thinking of either doing the rubber idea (car has been slammed 2 inches..so clearance is a huge issue) or trying to re postion the cats without them moving anylower to terra firma.
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From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by toosloz
what i did was take a 10 inch piece of old hose and zip tied it to the sfc brace and i have no one bang sound
what i did was take a 10 inch piece of old hose and zip tied it to the sfc brace and i have no one bang sound
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From: Maryland *Again*
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you get some poly engine mounts that should eliminate the torque flex that happens when you shift into reverse. This would probrably be the 2nd best solution after adjusting yout y pipe.
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