Today my brake pads squealed and when I checked it out, my brake pads were down to almost nothing and the rotors were blue from overheating and badly warped. So anyways I have a spare set of rotors and pads (need car back on road my Sunday)on my 86 TA. I need to folowing info:
-What special tools do I need to take off the pads/rotors besides alan(sp?) wrench?
-How long will it take?
-Link to site with directions on how to do it, or possibly a basic rundown.

If somebody who has done it before would send me a detailed E-mail I would REALLY appreciate it.

Thanks for the much needed help,
-Max

This is not a difficult job. If you are taking your time, it should take 2 hours max. There are no special tools needed other than the allen wrench to remove the caliper bolts. Once you've removed the brake calipers from the rotor, removing the rotor is only a matter of removing the hub cover, a cotter pin, and the large spindle bolt/washer that holds the bearings and rotor in place.

Understand that you will need to remove/reinstall the wheel bearings (you should probably repack them with new grease while you are at it) and replace the inner wheel bearing seal that will be on the back of the rotor. Save yourself some time and go buy them before you start.

The reason that you probably haven't had many replies is that the number of steps involved is long (though easy). I strongly recommend that you go buy the Haynes Manual for Third Gens. It's cheap and has a ton of pictures of this work.

The only real special tool required for the job is a C-clamp big enough to fit over caliper so you can compress the piston back in

When you're buying that Haynes book, see if you can find the allen wrenches that are actually sockets for your ratchet. I have one of those; I never personally tried an allen wrench by itself, but it looks like it'd be hard to work with if the caliper mounting bolts were stuck.

Also, pick up a little $1.50 pack of cotter pins, about an inch and a half long, and a little under 1/8 of an inch thick (where the pin comes together). You shouldn't re-use cotter pins.

They even sell a little $5.00 tool that lets you use your grease gun to repack the wheel bearings. I always do mine by hand... it's a pain in the butt job. Wipe all the old grease out.

If you have a torque wrench, it's even better to get a allen wrench that's a socket. Torque for the caliper mounting bolts is 30-35 ft/lbs. Torque for the center spindle nut is 12 ft/lbs as you spin the tire forward. Then you back off the nut, and hand tighten it. If the castellations don't line up with the hole in the spindle for the cotter pin, you shouldn't tighten the nut more to align it; loosen the nut.

After you do this, about a week later, re-check the tightness of the wheel bearings. The excess grease will have squished out by now, and correctly tightened wheel bearings (not overtightened!!!!!!!!!) will not only improve bearing life, but they'll improve braking, handling, tire wear, mileage, etc

Everything that TomP says is absolutely correct, down to the torque amounts for the bolts.

Also, I'll think I'll check out that tool for packing grease in the bearings. ...didn't know about that one.

Ok today I got all the tools I need. Did most of one side in 5 mins so it seems pretty easy.

One question is how do I repack the bearings. Do I leave them in solvent to get rid of old gease, and can I pack the new grease in by hand?

Also is it really necessarry to disconnect the brake line to change the pads?

Thanks for everybody's help,
-Max

to repack the bearings, you have to clean em good first of course, then take some bearing grease and dig in with two fingers and just take the bearing and work it down you hand untill grease starts to purge out the other side(of the bearing that is) not the big hole in the middle.

Ok I finshed the wap in about 3 hours. I repacked teh bearings, and cleaned everything off. Unfortunately I must have smeared some greae on my rotors as they are slipperry and get VERY hot after a spin around the block. Also my braking is very bad.

I sparayed them from the outside with WD-40 and rinsed it with a hose but does anybody have any other ideas that don't involve me taking apart the brakes again.

Thanks again,
-Max

UMmmmm I think everyone forgot the most important thing to tell him.... get brake cleaner and clean any oil off the surfaces including the oil from your hands. you will need about 3-4 cans of brake cleaner if you haven't already runied the pads. If that doesn't help get new pads the oil and grease will embed in them and cause them to not have the correct friction between the pad and the rotor.

Brakes must be clean!!!! when everything is put back togeather.

WD40 is bad for brakes it is a lubricant.

What was the purpose of spraying the outside with WD-40 then rinsing it of with the hose? There should have been no need for any type of spray lubricant. The only parts that need lubricated before reinstallation were the two hex bolts and some sort of grease should be used not spray.

well WD40 can be used as a cleaner but for this application it is a bad thing. I dont' think he has ever done brakes before that is why he didn't know not to get oil on the brakes

Wow had no idea WD-40 worked as a cleaner, thought it was strictly a lubricant.