Build me a 13 sec. TBI
Build me a 13 sec. TBI
Heres what I got already.
Catback exhaust off Manifold
373 gears
5 spd
Who can build me a 13 sec car without spending over $1500.
Please list the parts that you think could get me there! Thankyou in advance.
Catback exhaust off Manifold
373 gears
5 spd
Who can build me a 13 sec car without spending over $1500.
Please list the parts that you think could get me there! Thankyou in advance.
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: kansas
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
My best guess would be to get the 900 dollar stroker kit first. Assuming you arent interested in NOS. And then go from there with the main mods most are trying on a 305. That would get you close. Big cam also.
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: phoenix,AZ
Car: camaro
Engine: mighty 305
Transmission: mighty 700r
i would htink you need to tackle suspension mods first..
we need someone that has done it or almost.. Njspeeder where are you?
if you just want to do it cheap.. n2o would be the way to go with good suspension.
we need someone that has done it or almost.. Njspeeder where are you?
if you just want to do it cheap.. n2o would be the way to go with good suspension.
No WAY would I waste the money on a stroker kit for a 305 unless I was just trying to max out a 305 to prove a point. It would still need a whole new top end to make any HP, and you could get into the 13s with just that so why...
I'd say SR torquer (sp?) heads, single plane intake, Holley 670, LT1 or slightly hotter cam, and a custom chip. Just make sure all t he power gets to the ground and you'll run 13's with that 5 speed and 3.73s no problem.
I'd say SR torquer (sp?) heads, single plane intake, Holley 670, LT1 or slightly hotter cam, and a custom chip. Just make sure all t he power gets to the ground and you'll run 13's with that 5 speed and 3.73s no problem.
Supreme Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 2,977
Likes: 1
From: Davison / Troy ,Michigan
Car: 1991 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.8
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Dana 60
just do a search under me for et stuff.
teh big thing to remeber is to keep it simple, it does not take a whoel lot of power to run very strong numbers, you alreadyt have good gears, work on teh traction end of things a bit and practice power shifting and you will be golden.
later
tim
teh big thing to remeber is to keep it simple, it does not take a whoel lot of power to run very strong numbers, you alreadyt have good gears, work on teh traction end of things a bit and practice power shifting and you will be golden.
later
tim
Trending Topics
Originally posted by TBI305Camaro
approx how much power would it take to run 13s? i know you only ned about 97mph that doesnt seem that impossible....i guess its all about the suspension
approx how much power would it take to run 13s? i know you only ned about 97mph that doesnt seem that impossible....i guess its all about the suspension
Suspension = putting power to the ground so it moves the car
The less your tires spin and the less your chassis/suspension parts flex, the less energy is used on other things besides haulin ballz off the line.
The less your tires spin and the less your chassis/suspension parts flex, the less energy is used on other things besides haulin ballz off the line.
Originally posted by HrdRockA4305
Suspension = putting power to the ground so it moves the car
The less your tires spin and the less your chassis/suspension parts flex, the less energy is used on other things besides haulin ballz off the line.
Suspension = putting power to the ground so it moves the car
The less your tires spin and the less your chassis/suspension parts flex, the less energy is used on other things besides haulin ballz off the line.
Originally posted by HrdRockA4305
Suspension = putting power to the ground so it moves the car
The less your tires spin and the less your chassis/suspension parts flex, the less energy is used on other things besides haulin ballz off the line.
Suspension = putting power to the ground so it moves the car
The less your tires spin and the less your chassis/suspension parts flex, the less energy is used on other things besides haulin ballz off the line.
Like Mt Vernon IL huh? Thats cool, I've heard of it but thats about all honestly. I think its within an hour of here, but I forget which way.
And yeah, Tires is a lot of it. But everything helps. From a pure drag standpoint Z rated tires won't be the way to go, but on the street
I'd get some drag radials and put them on a spare set of rims just to use at the track or on some friday night where you wanna go lookin for trouble. I would do this myself but, well, honestly at the HP level I'm pushing right now, lets just say traction is not a limiting factor (plus the original posi still works great even after this many miles!)
And yeah, Tires is a lot of it. But everything helps. From a pure drag standpoint Z rated tires won't be the way to go, but on the street
I'd get some drag radials and put them on a spare set of rims just to use at the track or on some friday night where you wanna go lookin for trouble. I would do this myself but, well, honestly at the HP level I'm pushing right now, lets just say traction is not a limiting factor (plus the original posi still works great even after this many miles!) ALL THE SUSPENSION WORK IN THE WORLD WILL NOT A MAKE A 16 SECOND CAR RUN 13S... how much HP do you think that motor has stock???
Nitrous is the "cheapest" route. For around 600 bucks you can buy a kit. but STILL that is only pushing an additional 100-125 horse safely thru that stock engine, trans, drivetrain. low 15s high 14s are what to expect.
There is not one miracle part... YOU COULD spray the f-uck out of it but that is asking for trouble. Besides the solenoids that come with the N20 kit won't flow enough fuel/N20 to handle anything beyond 150 horse anyway.
1500 bucks is good for a down payment on a used 4th gen. They run 13s with minimum mods...
Nitrous is the "cheapest" route. For around 600 bucks you can buy a kit. but STILL that is only pushing an additional 100-125 horse safely thru that stock engine, trans, drivetrain. low 15s high 14s are what to expect.
There is not one miracle part... YOU COULD spray the f-uck out of it but that is asking for trouble. Besides the solenoids that come with the N20 kit won't flow enough fuel/N20 to handle anything beyond 150 horse anyway.
1500 bucks is good for a down payment on a used 4th gen. They run 13s with minimum mods...
1500 bucks wouldnt be to great of a down payment even on a used 4th gen z28 unless you really like paying out the *** every month...my 3rd gen is paid off so slowly i hope to make it faster. plus 3rds are much easier to work on compared to any 4th gen...even the v6 is halfway under the dash of a 4th gen...but in a 3rd a 305/350 is pretty easy to get to...
I have run a few bottles of nitrous through my engine at 100hp shots with no problems. I run 92+ gas and retard timing. As long as you know what you are doing, and your fuel and ignition systems are in good working order you will be alright.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,467
Likes: 1
From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Parasitic Power Loss =
= not good times
Well one things for sure, if you're going to get into the 13's, you either need new heads($$$), or port yours (PITA).
= not good timesWell one things for sure, if you're going to get into the 13's, you either need new heads($$$), or port yours (PITA).
Originally posted by TBI305Camaro
approx how much power would it take to run 13s? i know you only ned about 97mph that doesnt seem that impossible....i guess its all about the suspension
approx how much power would it take to run 13s? i know you only ned about 97mph that doesnt seem that impossible....i guess its all about the suspension
later
tim
Originally posted by FRMULA
ALL THE SUSPENSION WORK IN THE WORLD WILL NOT A MAKE A 16 SECOND CAR RUN 13S... how much HP do you think that motor has stock???
Nitrous is the "cheapest" route. For around 600 bucks you can buy a kit. but STILL that is only pushing an additional 100-125 horse safely thru that stock engine, trans, drivetrain. low 15s high 14s are what to expect.
There is not one miracle part... YOU COULD spray the f-uck out of it but that is asking for trouble. Besides the solenoids that come with the N20 kit won't flow enough fuel/N20 to handle anything beyond 150 horse anyway.
1500 bucks is good for a down payment on a used 4th gen. They run 13s with minimum mods...
ALL THE SUSPENSION WORK IN THE WORLD WILL NOT A MAKE A 16 SECOND CAR RUN 13S... how much HP do you think that motor has stock???
Nitrous is the "cheapest" route. For around 600 bucks you can buy a kit. but STILL that is only pushing an additional 100-125 horse safely thru that stock engine, trans, drivetrain. low 15s high 14s are what to expect.
There is not one miracle part... YOU COULD spray the f-uck out of it but that is asking for trouble. Besides the solenoids that come with the N20 kit won't flow enough fuel/N20 to handle anything beyond 150 horse anyway.
1500 bucks is good for a down payment on a used 4th gen. They run 13s with minimum mods...
a stock bottom end can handle nitrous pretty well actually. as long as your fuel pump is on good working order you can supply botht he injectors and the p[late properly and you will have no problem.
besides, 1500bucks isn't enough to cover insurance on most 4th gens still.
later
tim
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird, flat black
Engine: Stock 305 LO3
Transmission: Five speed
I would start with a set of heads. You can get them from a GM dealer for around 400-500. I would have them ported and ploished. Second I would look into a new cam. Find one that will match your heads the best. Do the mods to the TBI and change the air cleaner. Look for a alum drive shaft. With what you have left look into hedders and a Y pipe. Remember taking off weight and crank rotation mass ie a/c, air... That helps just the same. It doesn't give you extra hp, it just frees up hp. You motor should be able to handle a 100 shot of nos, just keep in mind what others have said about it.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, AZ
Car: 92 RS, 02 Tacoma, 2 73 Porsche 914s
you can build your own 350 for $1500.
but anyway...
change rear end gears and get a the slp takeoff unit...
change cam and intake...
heads if you can find a good set to match your cam and intake.
leave the bottom end alone.
program your own chips or convert to carb.
get everything spohn offers
and a new set of some drag slicks on cheap rims...
but anyway...
change rear end gears and get a the slp takeoff unit...
change cam and intake...
heads if you can find a good set to match your cam and intake.
leave the bottom end alone.
program your own chips or convert to carb.
get everything spohn offers
and a new set of some drag slicks on cheap rims...
Originally posted by snflupigus
you can build your own 350 for $1500.
but anyway...
change rear end gears and get a the slp takeoff unit...
change cam and intake...
heads if you can find a good set to match your cam and intake.
leave the bottom end alone.
program your own chips or convert to carb.
get everything spohn offers
and a new set of some drag slicks on cheap rims...
you can build your own 350 for $1500.
but anyway...
change rear end gears and get a the slp takeoff unit...
change cam and intake...
heads if you can find a good set to match your cam and intake.
leave the bottom end alone.
program your own chips or convert to carb.
get everything spohn offers
and a new set of some drag slicks on cheap rims...
Why do you think I should leave the bottom end alone? Wouldnt a cam be considered bottom end? I dont mean to ask a million questions but I have to learn somehow. Im thinking about sticking with my stock 262 heads. 60cc gives me a 9-1 compression right now.
Spohn this one of the companies that supports this board, they offer suspension and transmission products. Just ordered a T56 cross member and drive shaft loop from them.
IMO when you start to touch the bottom end (crank, rods, and pistons) it is time for a larger motor. Upgrading the bottom end gets to be very costly.
IMO when you start to touch the bottom end (crank, rods, and pistons) it is time for a larger motor. Upgrading the bottom end gets to be very costly.
Originally posted by JR305
Spohn this one of the companies that supports this board, they offer suspension and transmission products. Just ordered a T56 cross member and drive shaft loop from them.
IMO when you start to touch the bottom end (crank, rods, and pistons) it is time for a larger motor. Upgrading the bottom end gets to be very costly.
Spohn this one of the companies that supports this board, they offer suspension and transmission products. Just ordered a T56 cross member and drive shaft loop from them.
IMO when you start to touch the bottom end (crank, rods, and pistons) it is time for a larger motor. Upgrading the bottom end gets to be very costly.
Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: concord New Hampshire
Car: 87 iroc and 88 k2500 tbi truck
Engine: l98 and lo5
Transmission: 700 r4's babby
i dont get it why keep the 305 you can get a 350 for $400 that will run with your biult 305 imo the 305 was a smog motor and the heads just dont flow good enough to make power with. if you want to keep some thing with small cubes build a 327 or a 302
Originally posted by c4boom
i dont get it why keep the 305 you can get a 350 for $400 that will run with your biult 305 imo the 305 was a smog motor and the heads just dont flow good enough to make power with. if you want to keep some thing with small cubes build a 327 or a 302
i dont get it why keep the 305 you can get a 350 for $400 that will run with your biult 305 imo the 305 was a smog motor and the heads just dont flow good enough to make power with. if you want to keep some thing with small cubes build a 327 or a 302
Moderator
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, AZ
Car: 92 RS, 02 Tacoma, 2 73 Porsche 914s
i hear the go 350 all the time. there is a reason for this. 
i have a 355 waiting to be put into my 69, and im dying to put it into my 92 because i want power!!!!, and the 69 isnt ready for an engine yet.
so i figure the 92 could borrow it and the 69 wont care right? hehe
anyway, change your cam and intake, swap to carb or tune your own chips, and you should be able to hit 300hp, putting slightly less to the rear wheels, get your traction/suspension stuff and you will hit 13.0.

i have a 355 waiting to be put into my 69, and im dying to put it into my 92 because i want power!!!!, and the 69 isnt ready for an engine yet.
so i figure the 92 could borrow it and the 69 wont care right? heheanyway, change your cam and intake, swap to carb or tune your own chips, and you should be able to hit 300hp, putting slightly less to the rear wheels, get your traction/suspension stuff and you will hit 13.0.
Originally posted by NJ SPEEDER
if nitrous is only worth a 14 second pass how did camaroracer1992 go 13.18 with a 125shot/edelbrock intake/ultimate tbi mods/ and 3.73's...
if nitrous is only worth a 14 second pass how did camaroracer1992 go 13.18 with a 125shot/edelbrock intake/ultimate tbi mods/ and 3.73's...
Originally posted by fahq
I would sell that pos tbi. car and find a 3rd gen with a 350 tpi.
Put on a cat back, headers, pulleys, chip and a KN and you should run high 13's.
I would sell that pos tbi. car and find a 3rd gen with a 350 tpi.
Put on a cat back, headers, pulleys, chip and a KN and you should run high 13's.
keep the TBI, put a 350 under, it and run LOW 13s
For reference see ShaneBuss :hail: ShaneB. The guys have pretty much got it covered..I wouldnt worry about suspension at this point..
nitrous and nittos would be the easiest and cheapest way, but not the route i would go.
I would definitely build a 350, put some vortec heads and a nice cam in it, and go from there.
The downside to nitrous is you still have an old tired 305, with little potential. starting over with a fresh engine with 0 miles leaves you a LOT more room to upgrade in the future.
You should be able to do a complete engine for $1500, assuming you do the labor yourself...
Shane
nitrous and nittos would be the easiest and cheapest way, but not the route i would go.
I would definitely build a 350, put some vortec heads and a nice cam in it, and go from there.
The downside to nitrous is you still have an old tired 305, with little potential. starting over with a fresh engine with 0 miles leaves you a LOT more room to upgrade in the future.
You should be able to do a complete engine for $1500, assuming you do the labor yourself...
Shane
Originally posted by fahq
I would sell that pos tbi. car and find a 3rd gen with a 350 tpi.
Put on a cat back, headers, pulleys, chip and a KN and you should run high 13's.
I would sell that pos tbi. car and find a 3rd gen with a 350 tpi.
Put on a cat back, headers, pulleys, chip and a KN and you should run high 13's.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Billy Decker
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Wanted
0
Sep 4, 2015 03:46 PM





