I just got a 92 Camaro RS 305 TBI and I want to add some stuff to it so I can gain some horse. Its got flowmaster exhust 80 series but what else can I do thats reasonable and pretty easy to acomplish?

Thanx

 

I am currently looking at this Holly StealthRam Intake manifold. Its not to expenive but it looks like i would ahve to do a lot of other things to my engine before I could install that. Anyone have any insight on that it would be of much help..

Thanx again

 

Use the search key. This website alone has numerous mods that can be done.

 

Well, you're doing the right thing by starting with the exhaust. Do the ultimate TBI mods and open element air cleaner. As far as intakes go, I recommend again to do a search, as the topic has been covered a thousand times. Best of luck with your finds.

 

i suggest - 1)open element mod its in the tech articles very easy
2)3 inch cat back exhaust ditch the muffler(get hooker)
3)lower temp switch our cars run ****ty hot, check out http://www.thunderracing.com/ they have lots of good stuff
4)3.42 gears, posi(slponline.com) get the zexel diff
5)headers(slp makes the best)




After all this ull have about 30-40 more hp and some nice gearing help the added horsepower
well this is what i plan on doing to my new stock rs since my other 89 got totaled

 

hey wheres me sig lol

 

You can add another 30-40 rw ponies with a moderate porting job and gasket matching your intake runners to your head. Cheap I tell ya cheap! Alls you do is grind all that junk and you're good to go.

While yer at it, I'd have the heads serviced and go bigger on the intake valves and a 3 angle job.......endless smiles hometown, I'm serious.

(FORGOT) 40% of the engine's power output,if not more, comes from the cylinder head(s). How well they breath and how quick they dispense the gasses is THE REAL DEAL. Allow them bad mothafoa's to breath and if you're EFI(i'm glad i went EFI, the driving is unreal compared to a carb), intake AND exhaust(especially if you gots a turbo) runners gotta be smooth as glass bra's.....

Summit or you local hot rod store should have a Porting kit. Runs around $18. If ya have a high speed drill you're good to go. Otherwise a dremel will work just fine. An afternoon of hard work and presto-BAM! BAM!

CHEVYTOWN

 

Permanent or temporary?

Permanent... lots of stuff.

Temporary. One word. Nitrous.

 

ok here is what i have done
i have raced an lt1 with cold air= i beat him by 3 carlinks

its nothing radical but i started with..
1. made a cold air kit myself and bought a k and n cone filter
2. i then put headers
3. removed smog pump and cat
4. bought and electric water pump- 15 horses easy
5. installed a pulley kit
6. 3 inch cat back (not flowmaster= bad flow)
7.then pull a rear end out of an automatic trans am or camaro
8. chip
9.msd coil
10. header wrap
11. lower thermostat
12.tbi spacer
13. ik this is an expensive one but find a 700r4 with a shift kit, and buy a stall converter for it. this will really lower your quarter mile time
14. ultimate tbi mods

 

If you think a HSR is cheap and easy you've just ripped the top off the mod bin.......The HSR will run enough $$$$ to do a rebuilt 350 with some mods, the work involved with switching from TBI injection to a multi-port injection setup is the equivalent of open heart surgery.


The cheapest and quickest way to add power is to learn to burn your own chips ($150) and then swap out the cam ($250). You can gain upwards of 40-60 hp with a good tune. This won't be a balanced combo but every mod you make from here on out will unlock lots of power. To balance the combo you need headers, intake and all the little knick knacks.

 

agreed. im in the process of picking up an LT1 cam and a set of 081s that i will do i little bowl work to. gonna port match the intake, grind the TBI, and shoot for 14's. hoping santa drops an autoprom off for me this year.

 

1. Gain the most from your cat-back possible; DUMP THE CAT-FORWARD! Your manifolds and y-pipe are possibly THE MOST RESTRICTIVE EVER MADE BY CHEVY! I know, it's hard to believe, but it's true. Even manifolds and a y-pipe from a TPI car make a DRIVEABLE DIFFERENCE. Anyway, headers, y-pipe and high flow cat will do you nicely.

2. Next, you need good flowing, upgradeable heads. You can port the crap out of your heads but you can't re-use them for a 350 in the future. Some day you may want to upgrade. On a budget, you need a set of 87-up LG4 carb heads or 5.0 liter TPI heads with 1.94 intake valves and a little port work. You will think you put another engine in your car.

3. Your cam just flat sucks. No two ways around that one. Again, even a stock TPI cam is a HUGE upgrade. I think the LT1 cam works great, but an L98 cam is good, too. Your computer will still be happy with one of those cams. Your cam is so small everybody here calls it the "peanut" cam...

4. Drop the tank and put in a TPI or later Vortech fuel pump. Your stock fuel pressure regulator will take the extra flow and pressure just fine and your engine will run better.

After you've done all this, THEN you'll be ready to talk about 670 cfm throttle bodies, 2" throttle bores, and aftermarket intakes.

And then you'll be ready to burn your own chips and go nuts!

Good luck!

 

Nitrous.

 

You know, I get tired of hearing people bash flowmasters. I run them and I think they are just fine.

LET'S SEE SOME ACTUAL TRACK TIMES - THEN YOU CAN BASH! I don't give a damn about flow numbers; I'm not an engineer (and neither are you) so let's see a time slip from the track!

I haven't seen a nickel's worth of difference at the 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile to tell me that flowmaster flows so bad you shouldn't run it. I have not seen anyone ditch a flowmaster and then gain a half a second by running hooker, borla, or anything else.

I understand that some people don't like the sound or the fact that they are popular. That's fine. What's that got to do with performance?

So? No flow numbers, I want real track testing to prove that flowmaster sucks.

Anybody got any REAL proof?

Sorry about the rant; I'll post this in the exhaust section...

 

Kris I think you may have things a bit backwards, anything that adds more than 15 or 20 hp is going to REQUIRE tuning to even be drivable, it's just the nature of the beast. Just about any cam bigger than stock will throw the ECM for a loop, with DIY tuning you can pretty much run any cam in the book.

Tuning truly is the key, as a rule I won't even mod a vehicle unless I have some control of the ECM.

 

If you aren't very careful with porting your heads you can actually lose velocity on your heads. You can get video's on how to effectively port your heads out. I just recommend anyone to get in there and just start porting. I had my heads professional CNC ported by AFR and they aren't smooth as glass bra's. On the exhaust side they are pretty smooth though.

 

I agree 100% about the tuning. You must do it if you want to maximize everything you've done.

My experience is mostly on a strict budget, with lots of used parts. I ran the above mentioned setup on a stock chip in a 90 Firebird with a 5 speed. We started with a 305 and ended up with a TBI 400 - which we paid way too much to have tuned back in the mid 90's.

The 305 got all of the mods mentioned because we were hitting the late model wrecking yards, hunting down parts. It ran pretty good with the stock ECM, but not perfectly efficient, I'm sure. It ran better with a crap 69 dollar ADS super chip! We didn't have it REALLY tuned until we were running a 400 with L98 heads - but that's another story!

 

Actually, I've seen flowbench results of various exhaust setups. I'll see if I can find the link for the chart, but this is what I can remember.

EDIT: Here's the link, look at post #15:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exhaust/224858-muffler-use-poll.html

OEM mufflers (up to about the mid 90's) flow about 225-250cfm.
Flowmasters do actually flow in the range of about 350-400cfm.
Magnaflows flow around 650-850.
Borla XR1 flows 800-1000+.
Race mufflers flow 1000-2000+ cfm depending on model and size.

The difference you won't notice at the track, but maybe on the street, is that open chambered mufflers act like you're reaching the end of the pipe. So in essence, where ever you put a flowmaster, your exhaust feels like it's having a cut-out at that point. Your exhaust really doesn't "feel" anything after the muffler. As we know, cut-outs are generally good for moving your powerband up, which gives you better performance on the track, but you might lose some low-end torque.

Glasspack type mufflers like Magnaflows and Borlas act differently. They act like just a piece of pipe with a slight restriction in it. Therefore, when you put on a glasspack muffler, your exhaust acts like the full length of your exhaust, from the manifold to your tips. Having a much longer length of exhaust results in lowering your powerband, better for the street, not so much on the track.

This is why you might not notice much of a difference in the 1/8th or 1/4 mile with an open chambered muffler vs a glasspack. Because although the open chambered muffler maybe (probably) doesn't flow as well as the glasspack, it acts more like a cut-out, resulting in better high-end power, giving you a better track time.

Here's a couple of great articles about tuned lengths and exhaust dynamics.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...-you-ever.html
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...exh/index.html

The article at popularhotrodding.com is a long, but VERY informative article about EVERYTHING in a performance exhaust.

This is a diagram showing what I was describing about how your muffler acts. It's also in the popularhotrodding article...
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng.../photo_13.html

Edit: I am not bashing flowmasters. They do sound good, and for their purpose there's nothing wrong with them. I just personally wouldn't put them on a 300+hp engine.

 

There are guys who have swaped in LT1 cams which are about as mild as you can get and not been able to make it to the gas station because it ran so bad. So in my mind you can't even get 5% out of your mods if the car is undrivable.

Tuning is trully the key with any form of FI.

 

ok so if i have a '91 L03 in my carand another car that i have has a blown(bad rod?)'85 l98 what can i take off this engine to put on my car for more performance? cam? heads? do i need to reprogram my computer?