This is a 2 bolt main 350 block casting# 3970010. Block has been cleaned and crack checked. Cylinders have been checked and honed. Pistons are NEW TRW forged flat tops. NEW Rings std, NEW Rod 010, NEW main 010, and NEW cam bearings. Heads are casting # 3970126 which are 327 that have been cut to 2.02 and 1.600 stainless steel valves. Screw in studs and guide plates. Valve spring will handle up to .500 lift hydraulic cam. Rods have been resized and checked for straightness before pistons were installed. The engine is assembled and still on the engine stand with no miles on it!

i checked that casting number and i dont think it came with a hydraulic cam. but i asked him and he says theres one in it. i thought u had to do a major swap to do that.

 

taht sounds like a a pretty simple motor. nothing special about it. i wouldn't bother with it unless you can get a super huge deal on it.

later
tim

 

You're thinking of hyd. roller cam. A regular flat tappet hyd. cam can be put into any SBC. It doesn't matter what year.

That's a pretty good engine block. It has the higher nickel content which makes it a little more durable than others. Forged pistons are good if you plan on supercharging or nitrous. I find it odd that the bore isn't oversize yet the crank is. That's pretty uncommon to find a block of that age that hasn't been bored over at least once.

Overall it sounds OK. The heads are nothing to get excited about. They're stock GM castings that are good if you're looking to do a resto, but not for the high performance of todays standards.

Overall it's a good buy if (like NJ said) you can get it cheap. I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it. IMO, the heads would be the first to go, then the rinky dink cam that I'm sure is installed since there is no specs for it.

Don't get in a hurry though. Take your time. If that's Golden that listed that motor, don't worry, there will be more.

AJ

 

well i have a lt1 cam. could that go in this engine

 

nope the LT1 cam is a hydraulic roller cam. The motor your looking at has a hydrualic cam. Im not sure eactly why it wont work but i know a roller motor has a retainer tapped into the lifter valley to keep the lifters under control.

 

You can get a hyd. roller to work if you buy these.



They're about $260 for a set.

I wouldn't waste my time with a whimpy LT1 cam if I was gonna spend the money on those, plus the cost of a roller cam button and a timing cover to support it. :nono:

Get a REAL cam if you want to go through all that trouble.

AJ

 

oh i remember reading about the change in the block to allow roller cams. thanks guys.