Im wanting to try and adjust my timeing a little at the distributor.
the car runs rich, and never idles below 1000rpm's(usualy idles around 1500)
problem is I cant reach the dis clamp bolt with what tools I have. rather than buy a 101 diffrent wrenches Id like to get the right kind the first time. what do you all use to get to it?

 

What about just buying a distributor wrench? I'm not sure, but unless you have removed everything from around the distributor, that is the only thing you can use. I doubt anything else fits in there to work.

 

(ha, I just learned how to double post).

RBob.

 

What's the thermostat temperature rating?

RBob.

 

well it didnt have a thermostat in it at all when I got it in Jan, but I have since put in a 160* thermostat.
its ran rich since I got it. could that be the reason?

 

if it has the stock chip in it then yes runing a 160 will make it run rich cause it will stay in open loop till it reaches till it hit's the given temp. if it has the stock chip in it then go out and buy you a 180 or 195 stat. but dont be cheap buy a super stat

 

Yes, and the high idle speed. A lot of folks get away with a 180 in the summer as the engine usually runs above this temp anyway.

Thermo's are cheap, try a 195 for the winter and get a base line. Then once all looks good can play with the other temperature ranges and see the results.

RBob.

 

ok I'll go get a new thermostat to put in it b4 I try any thing else.
also my fan starts to run the second the ignition switch is turned to on. I cant see any where that the previous owner riged it to turn on like that to be able to fix it. will that be a problem?

 

Could be in the cool weather. Switch is in pass head between 6 & 8. Relay is on firewall by the brake booster. At least these are the stock locations.

With your location I would imagine the summers are on the warm side? (Hmm, no thermo, fan wired on, if you have A/C check between the rad & condensor. That area fills w/leaves & such and blocks the airflow. Also check that your airdam is still there. The cooling board can help in this regard as they have posted pic of this).

RBob.

 

Just guessing but sounds like limp mode.? Any thoughts?

 

Because of fan running? Not in this case, on the TBI cars the fan is controlled by the switch in the head, not the ECM.

RBob.

 

Oops, your right my bad thanks Rbob, I know that in the tpi cars the fan gets turned on and generaly the car runs like crap rich, locked timing, ect. Just sorta sounded like that

 

To move my dist. I removed the coil, throttle cables and then put a reg. wrench on it. Couldn't get it from the driver's side using about 5 or 6 different wrench combos. universal, crows foot, etc.

 

ok since I gutted my A/C system the only thing left was the condinsor. I went ahead today and pulled and flushed/cleaned the rad and removed the condinsor.
I also got a 195* thermostat put in it and sadly no change, car still runs rich and idles around 1500 rpm's,and apawn looking at the tb I noticed there is enough fuel being sprayed at idle for it to form a kind of puddle on the butterflys. is that normal and if not could that explain the poping sound that comes from my exhaust that only happens during idle?
Ive already replaced the O2 sensor,temp sensor, and coil trying to fix this problem. is there any thing else I can try?

 

make sure and check all of your vacum hoses

 

Sounds like it's time to get serious. First check that you have a stock EPROM in the ECM. Along with what camaro89rs355 has mentioned (vac leak!) it would help to get a scan tool on the ECM.

If the IAC is at zero counts and there is a loud hissing coming from the TBI then the IAC may be bad (stuck open).

If IAC count is at zero and no loud hiss, then you may have a vacuum leak (this is a very good possibility).

The scan tool will also tell you what temperature the CTS is reporting. This is important.

Check your timing with a light. (Did you get a wrench to move the distributor yet? I know this was your original question). Don't forget to open the bypass first.

With fuel nearly puddling on the butterflys the minimum air setting (idle screw) may be too low. It is important to have enough opening for the fuel to get pulled in around the edges (at idle).

Check that the ECM sees a proper VSS value.

Check that the EGR isn't sticking open.

HTH's,

RBob.

 

I was just getting ready to ask about the EGR. after driving for a little wile my ses light will come on. the only code I am getting when I check is 32 for the EGR system.

is it possable that could be the problem? if so how do I check it?

 

I called around today and the cheapest EGR valve I could find was $50.00 sadly I dont have an extra $50 right now so I went ahead and got the distributor wrench and adjusted the timeing slightly. sadly that didnt work. it just made the car run flat out like crap idleing below 1250 rpm's(stalled at 1000 rpm's)

aside from live with it running rich I dont know what to do now. you all know where I can get an EGR valve for around $20?

 

Unless you get lucky I don't think that throwing parts at it will help. Both camaro89rs355 & me believe that a vacuum leak is a good possibility. And because of the way the EGR diag operates a vac leak could set that code.

I don't have much experience with EGR troubleshooting. But I know that it is possible to reach up under the EGR saucer/can and push up to open the pintle. Can also use vacuum on it to manually operate it.

Check all of the vacuum hoses for splits or cracks. Can use propane or carb cleaner to check for vac leaks around the intake manifold and TBI.

What symptom is causing you to believe that it is running rich?

RBob.

 

fuel smell when driving, light grey exhaust at all times that smells like fuel(with some moisture comming out), and when it is cold out the fumes are bad enough with the window cracked open to cause eye and nasial passage irritation. to me that seems like running rich. if you have any other ideas what would cause those symptoms please let me know

 

I checked the vac linesas best I could, and came up with this.
the hose is all cracked, melted,and torn. at the biggest tear in it I felt a slight suction. could this hose/line be the root of my problem?

 

here is where that hose comes from

 

Hmm, see your point. Part of the fumes would be because of no cat. The light grey exhaust at all times I am not sure what to think of. Do you know of anyone that can put a scanner on it?

When you timed it was it with a light? IE: it is at 0-4 deg BTDC? (0 is stock, 4 is not unusual here).

Do you also get gasoline fumes back by the fuel fill area (left rear of car)? There is a problem with the fuel filler necks leaking where it enters the tank. Factory recall on it.

RBob.

 

I don't think it would be the whole cause, but is contributing. It appears to be the vacuum line for your cruise control. Can either fix the line, or short term plug it. Then you'll be able to tell.

Something else to check with the rich fueling. Enable the fuel pump and check to see if the injectors are dripping fuel. Should be a short red pigtail protruding from the harness by the brake booster. Hook this to the bat+ to turn on the fuel pump. Can also key on, will run for 2 secs, key off for 5 sec, and key on again.

Have you had a chance to see if the EPROM is stock. Could be something else in there.

RBob.

 

And clean that engine bay while your at it lol