Okay ive been running my 305 tbi with a open element and after a while it starts to get hot under the hood and if i drive for a while i can really tell the difference when the air is cold to when its really hot.So i was wondering if i should go to a dual snorkel but will i still get the same amount of horse power or will i lose some from switching from the open elment filter?

 

you need teh most acailable air for the engine. that means open element. a dual snorkel will allow for a cooler charge into teh engine, but it is a lot less air too.
a lot fo warm air is better than a little cold air.

later
tim

 

NJ think about what you are saying. There is no way a dual snorkle or large single snorkle filter assembly with a clean element choke a 305 tbi or a 350tbi for that matter. If the openning on the snorkle is as big as the tb bores the they will flow the same. Not to say that an open element exposed to cool outside air would not be the ultimate setup. But I would take a single snorkle cold air setup over a open element exposed to hot air any day.

Steve

 

One way to reduce underhood temps is to remove the cowl weatherstripping.

 

Last sunday(2/23/03) I tested an open element drop base (chrome edelbrock) with a never used 14 x 3" filter vs. my normal set up which is the stock filter housing with the heat stove valve removed and the factory 82-84 cowl induction(formula hood) with a 11"? K&N (~5000 miles or so).

It was ~80* orlando. All engine temps were ~150-160*

Stock housing I ran 14.759 @ 92.97 mph 2.10 60'
and 14.789 @ 93.33 mph 2.15 60'

With the open element I ran:
14.845 @ 92.86 mph 2.13 60'

I did shift about 100-200 rpm higher on the open element run and had the intake air temp sensor just sitting underneath the filter housing, but it surely wasn't more powerful with the open element on this hot day. I left the cowl open and I have no hood liner. This kinda makes me think that the stock housing isn't all that restrictive(yeah I really do) and that a lot of hot air isn't better than "some" cool air. I know the 14x3 didn't have a K&N etc, but the paper filter has less than 3 miles on it total. I'll probably be modifying the stock housing to be like a dual snorkel.

I'll give it one more test the next time I go to the track (2 weeks or so) if you guys really want me to put that sensor inside the housing.

 

if you're talking about the rubber strip at the rear of the engine bay......i tried taking that out, it snowed, and i wound up with two nicely shaped ice cubes in the throttle body.....not fun

 

I've had no underhood lining, no rear hood seal and not once have I had problems starting in the cold. It's actually even more exposed since I have ram air coming into the car.

Plus we've had a cold snap here in the -20C range in previous weeks...

 

I took the weather srtip off already and had no problems only when i go to a high pressure washer thats all other wise i dont drive the formula in snow i just put the car cover on it and drive the truck.

 

Yeah it never gave me any problems.

 

i realized something was amiss when the car started propelling itself up a steep hill.......then it had no power brakes, and when i stopped and put it in park, the rpms shot for redline......i thought i ruined something but it was ok after the ice all melted INTO the engine......all im saying is be careful

 

Yeah i guessed that my friend did the same thing and his hood froze shut when he went to was the car in a high pressure washer. So he had to take it to a under ground parking and Let it run there till the engine bay got pretty warm.