adjustable reg.
adjustable reg.
I know that you can do the "home-made" pressure regulator, as described in the tech articles... but does anyone know of a good aftermarket adjustable reg for TBI, WITH an accesable screw (without dissasembling the TBI unit)... I would like to rig it up so that I can change it while in the car (please don't be critical about changing the pressure from INSIDE the car...) I'm creative, AND I already have a mechanism that will allow me to turn a screw (like on the pressure reg) with a cable.. this hooked into some sort of lever, inside the car,... I already have an electric fuel pressure gauge (for inside the car)
any thoughts ? ideas ? comments ?
thanks in advance
any thoughts ? ideas ? comments ?
thanks in advance
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
What would be the purpose of adjusting the fuel pressure from inside? It's easy to disassemble the stock regulator and install a screw. Just requires a tap and a drill bit. I picked up a bunch of extra regulators from the junkyard last weekend and I'm going to convert them to adjustable and vacuum regulated. I'll sell them for $35 shipped. It'll have a bolt to turn and adjust but the bolt won't move up and down, it'll just spin and the spring seat will move like on the stock setup.
JPrevost...
the idea about adjusting pressure from inside the car is so I can change it while I'm driving... or waiting to run the strip ... or whatever... I have an electric cut-out, with switch,... my "home-made" ram air has valves on the intake... that I can open or close (depending on weather), ON A SWITCH from inside, ... and I know that you can turn up the pressure on a regulator... for a bit more power... like when racing.. (it works well with upgraded injectors/ custom chip right ??_ to increase fuel flow for a little more power ???) I though it would be cool NOT TO HAVE TO open the TBI every time that I wanted to adjust the pressure.. and I'm sort of HOOKED on the idea, of going from street to RACE in a few seconds... with the flip of a few switches... you gotta admit.. it's sort of cool ... flip the ash-tray lid up... throw 3 switches and look back at the other guy at the light...
is there ANY WAY to have access to the screw on the stock reg.. with out having to open the TBI ???, a hole drilled in the TBI unit with a gromit... or ANYTHING ??
the idea about adjusting pressure from inside the car is so I can change it while I'm driving... or waiting to run the strip ... or whatever... I have an electric cut-out, with switch,... my "home-made" ram air has valves on the intake... that I can open or close (depending on weather), ON A SWITCH from inside, ... and I know that you can turn up the pressure on a regulator... for a bit more power... like when racing.. (it works well with upgraded injectors/ custom chip right ??_ to increase fuel flow for a little more power ???) I though it would be cool NOT TO HAVE TO open the TBI every time that I wanted to adjust the pressure.. and I'm sort of HOOKED on the idea, of going from street to RACE in a few seconds... with the flip of a few switches... you gotta admit.. it's sort of cool ... flip the ash-tray lid up... throw 3 switches and look back at the other guy at the light...
is there ANY WAY to have access to the screw on the stock reg.. with out having to open the TBI ???, a hole drilled in the TBI unit with a gromit... or ANYTHING ??
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
I wouldn't dare adjust the fuel pressure on the fly. What you've described to me is exactly what I can do (or will be doing in a week or so). I've got a better idea and it'll work better too. Do your own eproms and get Craig Moate's 8 in 1 flash prom adaptor for our ecms. It has a switch on the side to let you select 8 calibrations on the fly. My vol eff is different with my borla uncorked and so I plan on having a calibration set specifically to the cut-out. Then one for running on 87 octane etc. Also have one with a rev limiter set at 3000rpm just incase of valet. Not like I'm loaded and have the money for valet but you never know. And lastly the theft protection. I haven't come up with the perfect way of doing this yet but it'll most likely be strongly based on either the fuel cut-off be it rpm or mph, not sure. As you can see it's not black magic.
The fuel pressure should be set and forget, not messed around with UNLESS you're diagnosing some problems like a bad fuel pump.
The fuel pressure should be set and forget, not messed around with UNLESS you're diagnosing some problems like a bad fuel pump.
cool, thanks... so I should adjust it once.. and then leave it... OK. NO PROB...
by the way.. I have a security kill switch,,.. it was already in the car when I bought it...but to the best that I can figure...it works with the vat-key (with the chip in it) and the ignition coil... (because that's the only code that comes up with the SES light... and I've replaced everything in the ignition)... you put in the key.. and then flip the switch, a light comes on that says, SECURITY, and when it goes off the car can be started (2 seconds)... but what I can't figure out is when I turn the car off, I have to flip the switch OFF, and then the engine stops... not if I take the key out first... OH WELL, it works though... A guy tried to steal my car last year... the kill switch is hidden in the ash-tray... along with my other switches
and he couldn't figure it out in time to get away before my dad ran outside with a shotgun, the car turn over but doesn't catch unless the switch is flipped....
On a different note... I wouldn't even let a vallet TOUCH my car... when I go to the shop., (tires, service.. .whatever) I have to pull it in, and out... they can't figure out the kill switch... lol
by the way.. I have a security kill switch,,.. it was already in the car when I bought it...but to the best that I can figure...it works with the vat-key (with the chip in it) and the ignition coil... (because that's the only code that comes up with the SES light... and I've replaced everything in the ignition)... you put in the key.. and then flip the switch, a light comes on that says, SECURITY, and when it goes off the car can be started (2 seconds)... but what I can't figure out is when I turn the car off, I have to flip the switch OFF, and then the engine stops... not if I take the key out first... OH WELL, it works though... A guy tried to steal my car last year... the kill switch is hidden in the ash-tray... along with my other switches
and he couldn't figure it out in time to get away before my dad ran outside with a shotgun, the car turn over but doesn't catch unless the switch is flipped.... On a different note... I wouldn't even let a vallet TOUCH my car... when I go to the shop., (tires, service.. .whatever) I have to pull it in, and out... they can't figure out the kill switch... lol
Supreme Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
Likes: 2
From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
Originally posted by JPrevost
I wouldn't dare adjust the fuel pressure on the fly. What you've described to me is exactly what I can do (or will be doing in a week or so). I've got a better idea and it'll work better too. Do your own eproms and get Craig Moate's 8 in 1 flash prom adaptor for our ecms. It has a switch on the side to let you select 8 calibrations on the fly. My vol eff is different with my borla uncorked and so I plan on having a calibration set specifically to the cut-out. Then one for running on 87 octane etc. Also have one with a rev limiter set at 3000rpm just incase of valet. Not like I'm loaded and have the money for valet but you never know. And lastly the theft protection. I haven't come up with the perfect way of doing this yet but it'll most likely be strongly based on either the fuel cut-off be it rpm or mph, not sure. As you can see it's not black magic.
The fuel pressure should be set and forget, not messed around with UNLESS you're diagnosing some problems like a bad fuel pump.
I wouldn't dare adjust the fuel pressure on the fly. What you've described to me is exactly what I can do (or will be doing in a week or so). I've got a better idea and it'll work better too. Do your own eproms and get Craig Moate's 8 in 1 flash prom adaptor for our ecms. It has a switch on the side to let you select 8 calibrations on the fly. My vol eff is different with my borla uncorked and so I plan on having a calibration set specifically to the cut-out. Then one for running on 87 octane etc. Also have one with a rev limiter set at 3000rpm just incase of valet. Not like I'm loaded and have the money for valet but you never know. And lastly the theft protection. I haven't come up with the perfect way of doing this yet but it'll most likely be strongly based on either the fuel cut-off be it rpm or mph, not sure. As you can see it's not black magic.
The fuel pressure should be set and forget, not messed around with UNLESS you're diagnosing some problems like a bad fuel pump.
txhotRS: Sounds like too many switches and excess BS to me.
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