When I try to accellerate fast on a hot engine (~200 maybe), the car feels like it takes forever to get up to speed. Whereas when it's cooler, under 175, it just zips up to speed in no time. Should I try a cooler 'stat?

The O2 sensor is approx 15k miles old.

 

i have the same problem... i might be attributing mine to an exaust leak at the head and farther down the pipe because when the engine gets hot thepipe expands so when my car is cold the air goes right to the exaust and is like a kid on crack... but once at running temp i lose lots of power aorund the 1500 to 2000 rpm range
I dont nknow if that helps you but something to think about... maybe a faulty coil? anyoe else can chime in

 

yup right between 1500-2000 is mine too.
But I have an MSD blaster coil thats less than 6 months old...
I don't like this

 

anyone?
it's really sluggish when I try to pull out in front of someone sometimes.

 

Autozone is full of morons, I swear.
Not only do they promote those movies *yuck*... But they're also ignorant.
I went in to get a colder thermostat, just because I think 190 is a little warm for my car.
I asked about getting a 170 degree 'stat, and the guy tries to tell me it will be bad for my car.
I even explained that this car is only driven from march to november, and he still said not to get it.
He's trying to say that the computer will go into limp mode and never heat up fully.
I know damn well that a 170 degree thermostat will do me very well in summer driving.
I didn't buy it because he may have been right...



Am I right, or is he?

 

I've noticed the same.. I got 7.8s 0-60 when the engine was around 200*f. Ie in normal temp. i did back to back runs so it was pritty consistant.. a few days later i removed the stat and gont 7.4-7.6s back to back 0-60... It does pull hard. and i mean way harder. I did check with my laptop. Blms were a bit rich at 126-124... i thick my engine really likes to run at that temp.. thats why i'm gonna get a 170 stat and a 170-180 fan switch.. (and mayby and extra fan infront of the radiator with a manual switch)

BTW

I did interior work this weekend... man does the car seem to pull hard when the whole interior was removed..

the difference between hot and warm was really big... warm being 170-180*f

I think i sheded about 120kgs.. atleast.. (counting in the 40kg subwoofer ) Just couldn't find any traction with old crappy tires. (255/50/r16)

-Crisis-

 

You'll be fine running a 170 or 180 in the summer. Try running a higher octane gas so the computer doesn't retard your timing because of detonation. The cooler thermostat will help untill you get in city traffic then it wil be the same as before. You might want to have the cooling fan come on at a lower temp or put a manual switch on it.

Steve

 

where's this damn thing located? I heard it was between the rear two cylinders on the passenger side... is it the black box that's against the top of the firewall? and I'm looking to ground out the green wire? Will that make the fan come on when the ignition is on?

 

I just made a manual fan switch for my car, spliced the green wire of the fan relay, ran it through a 20A fuse, and a toggle switch (20A max.) and to then ground. Works great, i would not recommend having the fan run whenever your car is running, it will reduce the life of your fan motor.

 

If you still have ac then find the wire comming off the high pressure line near the acumulator. I belive it's a green wire. You can splice into that wire and run it to a switch and then to ground. Or find the relay and run a switch to it. There is a good tech article on it in the tech section on the home page.

Steve