heys guys

i was wondering about a spacer under the TB to set it up off the intake maybe 1/8 inch and also using some thin plastic washer under the head of the TB bolts to help reduce the amount of heat the TB gets from the intake.


i got this idea from helping a buddy of mine install aa pete jackson blower on a honda and in the kit they have a intake gasket made of thin plastic whit a gasket on either side and have washers that go under the bolts. It's intended purpose is to keep the blower from picking any extra heat to keep knock down.

so i go to thinking if it can help reduce heat conversion on that it can help keep down from the TB and cooler air makes more HP

Also is there any way that i can keep my fuel lines from picking up and unwanted heat with out removeing and putting in another area away from heat. cause a cooler gas charge will make more hp also. cause cooler gas can assorb more heat until it vaporize helping in keeping the intake charge a tad bit cooler.

 

on the fuel lines all i can think of is something like an insulated braided line it looks better then the steel lines, im considering doing something of that nature.


your not talking about the injector pod. oh well thats probably a bad idea if your separating the TBI from the intake this will let dirt in the engine. but still why use washers if your going to lift the TB off the intake use plastic, why would you use an 1/8 .125 (most gaskets are that thick) spacer go with something like 1/4 or 1/2 " then you dont need washers, i see the washers as an extra step thats not needed, and you could probably get away with out using a gasket, since its plastic and its not submerged in fuel. just think 3 washers 3 screws one spacer, or 3 screws one spacer, and its done. it works on the honda but do you want what a honda has.

im also considering a spacer along with some other stuff, i have an 88 SC 305 TBI with 1.787 bores P&P.

 

You cannot use washers!!!! Your gasket will never seat right against your TBI and intake. You will have a huge vaccum leak. If anything you need to purchase a spacer out of a phenolic (sp?) resin or plastic to keep heat from conducting. And even if you got the wahser idea to work heat would still saturate the TBI via convection instead of conduction. The amount of heat that you shield (by your methods) will not make any more power at all. It will cause you headaches when you have vaccum leaks. Colder fuel will not yield more power unless you are taking fuel that was once boiling and now brining it to a stable condition. Colder fuel does not apply to the same theory as colder air. Colder fuel does not become more dense and retain more oxygen like air does.

 

i think he was talking about washering on the TOP, not along with the gaskets.

presonaly i think the small effect you might see is probably not worth the effort. spend you money to buy chip burning equipment, or to fund a head swap.

 

good point on the fuel lines i didnt think of that, you saved me a headache.

 

What i was refering to about getting the fuel to be a little bit cooler thiis. Think about the heat that is picked up by the fuel in the lines. sya for insatnce gast boils away @ 100 * and the fuel going into the intake is say hell 80 degrees so the gas only needs 20 extra degrees to vaporize. But if you could cool down the fuel to 65 degrees think about how much heat would be asorb into the fuel till it is vaporized. if it can asorb that much exta heat that mean it can help asorb some of the heat coming in off the intake charged air.



also the washers i was talking about was to go under the head of the bolts on top of the TB to help with heat soak from the bolt to the TB.

Ok can anyone give proof of the HP that doing the mods to the tb give the engine or is that a waste of time?

 

It is a waste of time. Fuel will only ingnite if it is vaporized. Fuel will ignite the same way at 65 degrees F as it will 100 degrees F. It only become volatile at super heated temperatures above what your engine can create. It is designed this way for a reason or it wouldn't be safe. Since heat rises, by the time the washers become heat soaked your TBI will already be heat soaked, and since your running engine will constantly be creating heat, the washers will not take away from that heat. They will take away heat for a for few minutes until they too become heat soaked withthe rest of the motor and engine bay and then they become useless at as heat sinks (heat sinks are cooled devices that use convection to dump heat out of a system.) Once the washers are heat soaked they cannot get rid of the heat any faster than any other part of your motor that is not cooled with some sort of device (I.E. fan/radiator). Your fuel combusts because it is going under rapid decomposision. Ambient temperatures are not a factor in this (0* F to 100* F). Your fuel is burnt in your chambers and not exploded, the more heat you have in the chemical reaction (not in the un-combusted fuel) the faster the reaction.

Also the length of the bolts that hold your TBI to your intake will conduct heat right into the surfaces of the TBI that they come in contact with. The contact area of the bolts is far greater than the contact area of a few washers. The more contact area you have, the more heat conduction you have. Trust me....Engineering has ruined my life

 

okay look at the TB, the lips around the bores, this prevents air from just entering around the edges of the bores(instead it is forced to go in-in another direction). alright if they are gone then air can move from those angles and sharp edges dont help air movement, round edges do, thats why we radi them.
since most tbi's have different bores sizes(or guys bore and hone them to 48 MM), and they are not ported exactly the same, they'er going to have different flow characteristics. a few hours is all it takes to do the tbi mod. if you actually think about the cooler fuel issue does it really do much to cool the fuel down before it gets burned its going to get hot anyway as it enters the combustion chamber and gets burned.

 

I see, as for with the cooling of the fuel before it enters your system, like it has been said, it won't really do you any good. But, as for any of us Arizonans at least, having some form of cooling aporatise(?) for your fuel lines is still a good idea. I can't tell you how many times I've had VAPOR LOCK ruin my day in my old truck. Luckily I havn't had it in my car yet, but it's still very concieveable out in 115* temps. If your not looking for cosmetics under your car, an easy solution is rapping your fuel line with aluminum foil. Not the most attractive option, but VERY efficient.

Bruce (90RS305)

 

Your car will not suffer from vapor lock as easily as your old truck because since a TBI system utilizes higher fuel pressure in the lines than a carb. Any fluid that is pressurized will resist boiling and retain more heat before boiling than it would if it wasn't pressurized. And living in Arizona must suck if you have an old pick-up. Heck even here in ohio vapor lock is not that un-common.

And yes, if you radius the lip around the entrance of the TBI you will increase the CFM rating of the TBI. I would spend my time on that.

 

yeah that makes sense, you never know though. And yeah, it was a @#$%!, especially because it took forever forit to settle back....