Im running 17.3's at my 'backyard track' (flat country road w/ a marker at 1/4 miles). its just not worth spending the money at a track untill the cars been built up a little more. Anyway i believe one of my major problems is my ignition. I just bought the car about 6kmiles ago and I'm pretty sure it needs some help in this area. I dont really know much about ignigions so here goes.

First off is my car HEI? (lo3, what else )

Second here is what im looking at, what more/less/differnt specs should i be getting?
kit: alkyd distributor cap and rotor w/ brass terminals, coil cover, bavle retention ring, 50,000volt coil (SUM-850009)
wires: (TAY-64604) 8mm 135*boot HEI taylor wires

 

You hit it on the head with your list. There may be other reasons for your slow times. What makes you think it is ignition. When buying ignition stuff it is best to stay with one brand name and not mix and match. So I would go with all jacobs, MSD, accell, etc. I went with MSD and I am very happy with it. You will want to buy

new plugs (correctly gapped)
coil
cap
rotor
wires

If that doesn't help and you are still convinced it is ignition it could be more serious and at the roots of your HEI system.

 

I don't believe the LO3 is a HEI ignition setup.

 

I am pretty sure it is. There is two types of HEI, coil in cap and external coil.

 

So how do i tell if i have HEI. Then we'll forever know if the lo3 has HEI.

Yea, the plugs are pretty much a given. Its seems everyone is in aggreance, go w/ delco.

The rotor, cap, and coil all come in a kit from Summit. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D850009
one kinda funny thing, the catalogue advertises it @ 50000volts, but the website says 48000 volts. Is there any reason i would need more then 48k? The whole thing is $50.

The wires are http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=TAY%2D64604 and are super inexpencieve at $23. is there something im missing (a reason they're so cheap)?

I think its ignition b/c when i do my runs it starts to noticably lose power at like 3500-4000 rpm's. Now i know alot of this is from the manifolds (being replaced this winter ) but it seems like more then just the restrictive exhaust, and reading around people tend to replace their ignition systems when they start w/ mods. one more thing, i dont need to replace my whole distributor do i?

thanks again-chuck

 

You do not need to change your distributor. If your stock ignition is up to par forget about the upgrade. i did it and I wish i would have put the money towards something else. It made for a smoother idle and a little better mileage but for the cash I laid down for it I wish i got something else.

 

its an HEI ignition system FOR SURE

 

i guess ill just replace the plugs when the headers go in and then see if its still bogging down. Or is there another way to check the ignition to see if its not up to par besides 'it doesnt feel right'

btw i ran a 16.8 by shifting myself at 5500rpm's instead of the 700r4's decided 4500. I only ran it once so i'll have to do it 2 or 3 more times to get the most accurate time (gotta do that when you have a stopwatch instaead of lasers). That was w/ 2 people in the car (one to run the time).

 

go with.....
MSD HEI small cap and rotor
MSD Blaster GM coil
8mm Taylor or MSD wires
AC Delco Plugs

 

The LO3 is a small cap external coil HEI. That kit from summit is the wrong one(just looking at the picture) I have been very happy with my MSD Blaster coil and after burning 3 sets of other plug wires my MSD superconductor wires 8.5mm. A trick if you put headers on (atleast edelbrock) you need all 90 degree boots on the plug end of the wires not the mixmatch you get for our cars so order a set for a 92 TBI fullsize chevy truck with a 350 they have all 90 degree boots.

just my .02

Ryan