What do I have to do to my 305 TBI to get into the high 14's or even low 15's. I know what without tons of work and money my car will never run with LT1's or anything. I just want it to be a little peppyer until I can save enough money for an SS

from the factory the 5 spd ran like 15.9 1/4 mile so you should be able to do at least that... get somke good tires and do some suspension mods... the lca's are cheap and so is the panhard rod!!! you can get all 3 for under 200 bucks!! i unfortuanitly bought the grantanelli ones. they are great but the are more expensive. you can find them cheaper. also you can get better than 3.08 gears in there and that will help. i would go with the 3.23 or 3.42 if you do any more you could loose top end speed. also you could buy the stuff and learn how to burn your own chips or you could buy my ported throttle body!!!! i'll pm you.

pfff pffff.

spray it.

car craft sprayed like a 500 shot on a 350 from the junk yard and it did not blow!!! it only blew when they purged the nos at idle...

low 15's/high 14's aren't all that much work I think.

I'm already in the low 15's zone with just what most people consider light mod stuff.

Check my post out for what I did to the car. "New dyno numbers"

i tihk im prob clsoe to that range with the mods in my signiture..

sig

the easy way into teh 14's is very very easy.
first thing to do is the free mods. go check out the ultimate tbi mods in teh tech articles and get them out of the way.(smooth the throttle body, open element air cleaner, advance base timing, DIY AFPR, double gaskets to act as injector tower spacer). these things will help you out with a littl ebit of trap speed and extra hp for only a few bucks. do not worry your self with a k&n or any other uber filter, the gain is too small to justify the cost on a basically stock engine.
next trick is posi and gears. the choice is really up to you what gears you choose. 4.10's are optimal for performance, 3.42's are the easiest to find around from a V6 car in your local junk yard, and 3.73's are a great compromise if you dont' wanna run "too much" gear on the street. (i say "too much" because teh rpm difference between 3.73 and 4.10 is only about 350rpm at 70mph, which is really meaningless to your mileage and engine life)
these mods alone should knock at least a half a second off your 1/4 time, if not more.
exhaust is always a good place to make an HP gain. edelbrock and slp both offer very nice pipes with 1 5/8 primaries and 3inch collectors. follow that with a 3inch cat back and a high flow muffler and you will be set for a long time(flowmaster cat backas are cheap, fit very nicely and have a good tone). when shopping for headers DO NOT buy the ones that say they are teh direct replacement for a tbi car. they have a smaller collector and are designed to fit the tiny stock 2 1/4 inch cat adn cat back. that will be no help. shop for pipes that say they are for a IROC or 350 car, most will note being a for a single 3inch cat.

keep one very important thing in mind when you are workin on your car to achieve an ET goal. et is a measure of traction and gearing more than it is HP. so make sure you have soem traction, tires are always helpful, or a battery relocation to teh rear(it fits perfectly in teh spare tire well).

hope this helps

later
tim
P.S. yes this is me. i am back and typing as bad as ever. i am not a mod any more, i simply do not have the time to put into it right now.

Well assuming that I had a perfect reaction time of .500 my car ran a 14.796 a couple of weeks ago. Seeing as how this was the first time I ever ran my car at the track I had a really crappy time of 1.223 giving me a time of 15.519.

My logic:
15.519(1/4 mile time) - 1.223(crappy reaction time) + .500 (perfect reaction time) = 14.796

I didnt even shift, I just had it in drive the whole time. I really surprised myself. It was really cold that night plus I think the elevation helped me.

oh yeah, the exhaust was dumping right after the cat

Reaction time has absolutely NOTHING to do with your ET! You could have a reaction time of 5 minutes and pull a 15.2 or whatever.

p.s. Good to see you back tim

Yeap Jason, reaction has no effect on your et's at all. The time only starts once you trip the beams at the line. That said, you definitely have more in your car. If you got some gears and manually shifted higher I don't think 14's are that far away. BTW, your car is still the baddest sounding machine ever, lol. BTW, what gaskets did you use on your 2055's?

reaction time has to be a part of your ET. If it wasn't apart of your ET, then whats the point of bracket racing. In my case yes I ran a 15.5 at the track but if we were to see just what the car itself can pull without the added blunders of a driver my car ran a 14.76. If I wasnt at the track, lets say at a long road. And lets say when I mashed down on the gas a clock started. In this case my car would run a 14.796.

If reaction time has nothing to do with oyur ET than whats the point of the tree at the track?

I was just trying to illustrate what my car can do, not me and my car even though this is the time that matters the most

maybe I am just lost here.......

Reaction time matters in bracket racing because the person with the faster dial in starts out with a handicap. So lets say you ran a 15.55 and you had a dial in of 15.50 to be safe so that you won;t break out. If your opponent has a dial in of 11.50 he won't get to start until exactly 4 seconds after you. If you both were to run exactly what your dial in is then the person with the fastest reaction time will win because they get to the finish line quicker.

the headers came with bolts and gaskets

I know, so you just used everything they came with? Any leaks or problems with the bolts coming loose at all?

ok I get it now, thanks Brandon. I retract my previous statements.

SO my car runs 15.5......end of story. No need to bust out the calculator and subtract and add crap and try to justify what a perfect reaction time is.

yeah no problems at all with what they sent me with the headers. its really hard to tighten down the bolts for the headers, almost impossible to get a wrench on them. But everything did fit, they even send spacers so that you can reuse the original bolts for the AC brace and alternator brace. after about 100 miles or so I tightened them back up. They loosened a little bit nothing drastic though. I really didn't feel like spending more money on better gaskets and bolts. No leaks so far. I highly recommend taking out the heater box though. I removed mine and it made the install much easier.

when spring rolls around a shift kit and B&M mega shifter will go in, by summer hopefully some 3.42s with posi.

No problem, thanks for the info Jason. When ya gonna come in to Sam's again, lol? Did you ever get your exhaust hooked up?

High 14s in a 5 spd car, probably the same as NJSpeeder said.

Gears 3.73 or higher, on the highway my TBI car runs lower RPM than my 3.42 gear TPI car, due to different tranny ratios. 3.73s and 80 mph = ~2700 rpm. GET GEARS.

GET HEADERS. I have timeslips showing 5 mph gain and .6 sec in 1/4 from headers. BTW, headers also includes a 3" cat mated to a 3" cat-back exhaust.

Increase timing. Stock is set at 0 degrees and total advance is like 20 something degrees. You can advance the timing with the dist to at least 8* using the stock chip and premium gas.

Suspension: Getting the car to hook is essential to good ETs. LCA brackets are probably the best thing for improving traction on a car that's lowered or still has stock 10+ year old springs.

I pulled 2.1x 60' on $54 each tires with stock suspension. I'm sure that can be improved.

See sig.