what is the best cam to fit this setup:

lo3 with world s/r torquers 305 model
(http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...41&prmenbr=361)

shorty hedders 3" to cutout valve


edelbrock performer intake manifold
part # 350-3704 at jegs

and someday, upgrade to a 454 TBI

dunno if it matters, but im running nitrous as well.

the intake manifold can come bundled with

Adv. Duration: 244°/264°
Duration @ .050'': 194°/214°
Gross Lift: .265''/.294''
Lobe Seps. 112°


is that good or is their better?

the cylinder heads max lift is .560''

 

That's a real wimpy cam there. Cam choice all depends on your chip tuning skills. Get into the tuning right now, once your good at it do the heads/cam swap and go with no less than an LT1 cam I'd say, preferably larger.

 

well what i will prolly end up doing is getting some raw data from my car, and sending it to tbichips.com

should i go for a cam with the biggest lift i can go with those heads?

 

NO, lol, i dont think you want a .560 lift camshaft in a 305. If you are really confident that you can get your car tuned then i would go with something around .500 lift with a 214* duration at .05 lift and at least a 114* LSA.

 

ok since idont know much about cams at all..

ok i know nothing. lol


wat would be the effects between the 500 and 560 lift?

do you have any recomendations on a good cam for my setup?

preferably link me to something on jegs as a reference?

 

do a search, everything you will ever need to know is already somewhere on this board.

 

That cam that can come with the intake manifold will not work on our cars. That cam is designed to work on TBI trucks which didn't have roller lifters. Our cars do have roller lifters, so you need a roller cam.

 

I put a UltraDyne cam in my car, it is a GREAT fit for TBI.

the former owner of ultradyne is now cheif designer for lunati, you can get the same cam from lunati.

Part # - 501A1LUN
Grind # - 01-HR2-HR1-12-A01

272 282 206 216 0.447 0.447 112

with the nitrous, you might call lunati,and talk to Harold (ext 135) that cam on a 114 might be a better choice.

do note that you will need customer tuning for this combo.

 

actually you can use a flat tappet cam in a roller block, but whats the point?you already have a block fitted for a roller cam

 

I will sell you a lt4 camshaft for 70$

It would work well with TBI I think. It is roller and has .480/.480 lift with 1.6 rockers.

I thought about keeping it in my engine but I have a carb....I can go bigger.

 

since the tbi motors do not have a ton of compression you can always go with a modern cam design that helps to build cyl pressures up a bit.
i am personally a big fan of comp cams extreme energy line of bumpsticks. they use modern lobe design to allow for greater charge volume and velocity.
since you are plannign to run a performer intake i would suggest you check the XE264HR. it will provide a huge gain in power across teh band, great average and peak torque numbers. it is a .487/.495 lift, 212/218 duration @ .050, and a 110 lobe seperation.
it will give you a nice noticable idle, but nothign choppy or radical.
you will need to do soem chip tunign to compensate for the cam, but you will have to do that for any good cam, so no big deal.
it will be a strong cam taht you can shift around 5600rpm and still daily drive on without any problems.

later
tim

 

hey thanks njspider. i read your thread on your return.

good job

i checked out your recomendation.

what if i went with something a lil bigger like the

XE270HR

.495''/.502''

RPM Range: 1600-5400

looks like slighltly rougher idle, but i can carry it farther in the rpm's

i can live with any ammount of rough idle, i am still young and enjoy these things haha

 

You can live with it but your speed density TBI setup will have some trouble. Even that cam on a 110 LSA is going to be pretty tough to tune in at idle I would think. I wouldn't go any larger than NJ's recommendation, at this time, at least.

 

what do you mean tough to tune it at idle?

is it something to do with when it says RPM range: xxxx - xxxx ?

and this would be ok with the headers and 3", and new cylinder heads right?

cuz theirs no way this cam would work with stock heads right?

 

The 270HR would make your car run like poo without tuning. Probably wont even really be drivable. I too like the cams with more aggressive ramp up. I have one of the old school lazy cams with lots of advertised duration, something like 280. With my 8.5:1 compression, the motor is weak below 2000 rpm and it bogs a bit in high gear at low speeds. Id put my vote in for either the 258HR or the 264HR with 112 LSA. 110 would probably be fine, but 112 may be easier to tune around idle since the vacuum signal will be a bit more consistant. If your not planning on tuning the car yourself, you might as well not even bother doing any of the mods. After what I went through with mine, I wouldnt even touch another TBI setup if I couldnt alter the ecms tune. These cars just seem to run like puke if you dont tune them after mods. After my mods, I even considered retrograding to a rochester Q-Jet and non-CC HEI dist. before I bought the stuff to program chips.

 

and plus you have smog to worry about, i would just go with an LT1 camshaft with 1.6 rockers, this will give you a lift at about .480, a duration of about 205* and a large lobe separation which will help alot with tuning. believe me, if u put in that camshaft, sr torque heads, and a performer intake, you will get some very nice gains. Dont think you have to get the biggest camshaft, the most expensive heads, and the best intake in order to be satisfied. I am happy with my car now and i have yet to touch the heads or camshaft.

 

if i did go with an lt1 cam and 1/6 rockers, along with my mods i want to do, what kind of hp figures would ie xpect?

i really like this cam njspder posted up, can i get the lt1 numbers to compare?

 

you arnt going to be able to get HP numbers to compare, the cam that he listed is going to be very hard to tune and more than likely your car will run slower because of the bad tune. If you get a LT1 cam, 1.6 rocker, heads and intake you will be looking at some very good performance gains. Going with a smaller cam and making the car easier to tune will be a great trade off, i dont want to see you 3 months later complaining that your car runs like crap and you cant pass CA smog. You will benefit from a more computer friendly cam.

 

Ok, first off, you have a 305, those RPM ranges are not accurate, add 1500 rpm to each number, and this will be more accurate for a 305.

the 270HR is too much cam, unless you are planning on spinning to 7k, in which case i hope you have a valvetrain up to the job.

I do like the 264HR cam, it is fairly aggressive cam for a 305, it will be some work to tune, my one problem with that cam is the 110* LSA, typicaly the computer controlled cars, like 112-114 LSA, it keeps them a little happier. Although i would have to run the numbers, with a cam that only has 212* duration, the overlap, even on a 110 may not be anything that will cause a huge problem. if you have Zero tuning practice, start now, don't wait. the learning curve on a cam like that is very steep, if you start now, you will know how to manipulate the numbers.

 

Like I mentioned before I would do suspension mods first. No tuning with be required and you will see nice gains. I would get a posi unit, 3.73s, lca's, panhard rod ect....

That and your nitrous should yield some good times. Plus you won't have to worry about smog or tuning.

Dimented....I know how you feel. Our cars were exactly the same. We even put the same GM goodwrench engine in them. I was going to go TBI...then last minute I suddenly found myself ordering a holley carb, intake, proform distributor, FPR, ect. At first I had no idea what to do with the carb. I knew I had no idea but I did it anyways. Even when my carb was out of tune it didn't run that bad. Now I know what I'm doing and I really like it. Only problem with carbs is they don't run well when they are cold and they like to stall out when you brake very hard. Oh well.

 

i have posi, 3.08's

and kyb shocks

 

since we are talking about cams.. im still deciding what cam to use with the endgine im goign to build.

thinks to keep iin mind has to be smog friendly and not terrible to tune but goor midrange power, i have a 2400 stall, heres what i ahve for now
i was thinking l98 cam but wanted a bit more pwoer then that. let me know your sugestions on this combo.

l98 short block ...30 over
ported l98 heads
holley tbi intake
holly 670 tbi
cam ???
compression aournd 10:1
#65 injectors
high fllow fuel pump
lots of tunning of course!!

 

a bit more than an L98 would be an LT1 cam

 

bbtaz.


280 288 226 234 0.530 0.530 112
Part# 501A4LUN
Grind# 01-HR11-HR12-12-A01

that there is no joke of a cam. should pull like a mother to about 6200-6400

with your combo, i would tweak a few things though. 1) intake, think single plane

and depending on HP levels, you might need larger than 65# injectors. the cam i listed should be a good fit in a 350. (i noted the 'lots of tuning' at the bottom, that is why a cam that large came into play, it will take tuning. but once you get it sorted out, hang on. That cam should easily make 350hp. with the right intake, and if the heads are sorted out. the 2400 stall should be just right for that cam also i would also suggest at the least 3.42 gears.