The cam i have right now is as follows:
RPM Range: 1000-5000
Int. .425
Exh. .440
Dur @ .050:
Int. 206
Exh. 212

The new cam i want to put in there is:
RPM Range: 2000-5500
Int. .465
Exh. .490
Dur @ .050
Int. 220
Exh. 230

But i was wondering what kind of power gain i should expect, a little, some, a lot? or do you guys recommend something else?

Plus, do I really have to remove my engine to install the new cam? cause i don't want to take the time to do that (i'm lazy). Then here's another thing, the cam i have is supposeably a Hydraulic flat tappet, were the 86 and past (86, 85, 84, 83, 82) vehicles flat tappet (any way to check)???

 

I can't answer you cam questions, but you should not have to remove the engine to install the new cam. All you should have to do is remove all of the front accessory brackets (the brackets, alternator, water pump, etc.), belts, fan, radiator, AC condensor (if equipped), and the valve covers and intake manifold off of the engine. I may have forgotten some things, it's been a while.

It's turns out I did forget some stuff. For a step-by-step, check out this link, written by Stekman, a member of the boards: http://home.comcast.net/~stekman/Cam_swap.doc

You are correct. The 82-86 V8 F-Bodies were equipped with hydraulic flat tappet cams/lifters and the 87-82 V8 F-Bodies were equipped with hydraulic roller cams/lifters. There's only 2 ways I know of to check. One is to get the casting numbers off of the block (decode the numbers at www.mortec.com) and the other way is to take the intake manifold off and physically look at the cam and lifters. If you don't see a large metal "spider" going from the middle of the lifter valley to the lifters, than you've got a flat tappet set-up.

 

in a 305, that may be a little much duration that you want. Unless you plan to spin the motor to 7k. You will likely have a difficult time getting a good idle.

The other thing not mentioned there is the LSA, and centerline. those will be key in determining how computer friendly the cams are.

Another issue, is the .490 lift on the exaust. if you are running stock heads, they will not take the lift, without cutting down the valve guides. You may also need at least long slot rocker arms.

 

Now that's a bummer, i had the cam all picked out and everything. and the LSA on the first one is 112, and the second one is 110. hmmm that's a stinker...

How bout this one, i don't think it's as much, but it's also an upgrade...

LSA 112
RPM Range 1000-5000 (same as one i have now)
Int. .450
Exh. .480
Dur @ .050
Int. 206 (same as old)
Exh. 210 (2 smaller then old, old=212)

Only thing here, is this one is a hydraulic roller..... otherwise would that one work?

 

you can make any of those cams work in reality. the best way to pick a cam is to match it to the rest of the motor though. if you are sitting on stock 83 heads(basically revised late 70's smaog LG3 heads) something liek a comp cams extreme energy 268 woudl be good for you.
if you are plannign a mild head upgrade(mild pocket port, gasket match, 3angle valve job) move to a comp cams extreme energy 274 and you will be flying.
the end result will have everythign to do with computer tunign though. make that teh priotrity as soon as you get done the swap.

later
tim

 

Yes, there will be a lot of tuning work needed.

FWIW, the specs on the cam in my car right now, are as follows

Intake...adv.........272
Exaust...adv........284
Intake @ .050.....206
Exaust @ .050.....216
Intake Lift ...........447
Exaust Lift ..........447
Lobe Seperation..112
Lobe Centerline...106

That cam is about the same size as the first one. My motor still makes power to about 6300. But it also required many hours of tuning.