Alright,
SO far I got

Re-built swirl port heads (everything new, but pushrods and rockers)
Pacesetter headers (good for up to 400hp)
High flow cat,
No muffler
3inch exhaust (The factory option that yielded 180hp over 170stock)
Posi, 3.23, disc rear
Open element
MSD blaster coil
MSD cap and rotor
New prostock 8mm wires
4tip bosch pluggs
AC Delete
GFX removed
Honey combs removed
Rear seat removed
Spare removed
pretty much two seats dash and center console.
Stage 2 chip from TBI chips.com
(Brand new cooling system, new everything but bottom end of the engine, however still stock intake).

I plan on NOS ing the TBI, 150 shot.

Than next summer my LO5 is going in, with a carb performer intake and 202 heads.
For now, I just want a bit more performance out of my LO3. What do you think I'll do with NOS??

Do you suggest LT1 cam in the TBI or should I not waste my time nor money?
My LO5 will be nosed but more like a 75-100 shot.

I am already hanging with a lot of mustangs, (maybe they are crappy driver, I dont know). I beat one on the highway, it looked pretty tricked out... I don't know... But I want more power out of the LO3, while waiting for the LO5 to get done???
What would you guys suggest???

What numbers do you think I'll yield with this.:

 

Well, first, running NITROUS (NOS is a brand) I would ditch the chip. Probably just has added timing at WOT and that is not what you want with nitrous. I would get a plate wet shot system. Look into some sort of timing retard control.

I wouldn't put a different cam in it unless you know how to tune the PROM, which I assume you don't because you have a "stage 2" chip. I don't like those 4tip Bosch crap plugs, so I'd go with a set of standard AC's maybe even a heat range cooler.

Also, there was never a 3" exhaust option on TBI cars that boosted it up to 180hp.

 

NOS is the brand I am getting by the way.

The exhaust was indeed an option. I forgot where I read that, but it was in old brochure adds.. (It'll take me forever to dig it up) I am sure if I asked at the restoration/history board I can get it for you. I have a 3 inch exhaust which came with the car originally, the first owner told me thats how it came.
But, I am not here to bicker, so don't take it as that .

Anyways, I talked to NOS and they told me up to 140 would be OK to shoot the stock chiped 305. They said that 100 would be ideal, but their max is up to 140.
They also said that if I have new heads and full exhaust and updated iginition, 150 would be ok as well.
All, in all they stuck with 100shot as the safest.

Window switch and a new fuel pump are going in, as well.

What numbers do you think I would run with the set up??
I just don't see it fit to take my 305 to dyno. 50 bucks is too much to pay for dissapointment. I think??

Oh, yea now that I think about it, I do have a Pro/am which came with many different options. I still remember the add with the 3ich exhaust though.

 

Bron, what numbers are you running???
HP and TQ, maybe 1/4???
Thanks.

 

If you are going to be going with a carb intake for the 350, why not look at one now? The stock tbi intake can't compare with an aftermarket edelbrock or holley carb intake. You'll also be spending big money on the NOS tbi kit, I think summit and jegs sells it for $580.
You could pick up an intake for $120+/- and NOS plate system that will fit the carb intake starting at $350. Just food for thought.

 

Your heads suck. Your headers wont give you 400 hp. Your heads suck. Put on the NOx for more power.

 

Oh, I konw, 400hp is not what am looking for at this point .

NOS would probably be the best way to power.

I checked few threads to switch to carb. It seems like everyone is having problems with the throttle cable and tvcable. If there is an easy way around that, and I can still keep close to my MPG's now, than it would be cool.

Since I have the 305, and waiting for the next summer for my 350, I am concerned about Miles per galon (what 305's are good for ). I figured NOS is better for MPG over a constant boost, or more engine power. I can keep my mileage, and still race decent. You can't beat that.

Let me know the exact combo you have in mind. It just might be the way to go!!!
I can get the performer intake with EGR for 150 at pep boyz here. Would that work???? Oh, I would need different heads. Were 202's before 87 or after????

Off topic a bit, I finished the engine in may, and with all the prelube and stuff is it OK if it sits outside all closed up??? Or do I need to take it apart and prelube it again???? Maybe just put some oil in, and turn the engine over????
My first build, sorry for the dumbassnes.

Thanks for suggestions.

 

I'm thinking a NOS Sniper wet system ($370 from summit) and an edelbrock performer intake ($135 from summit) would be a nice route to go. slap a carb to tbi adapter on top of the NOS plate and you will be good to go. The NOS Sniper system is adjustable from 100-150 shot. Also, the only difference in the intake years before and after '87 is the angle of the middle intake bolts. It's not a big deal, do a search and you'll find how to make an intake for '86 and earlier heads work on '87 and newer heads

There is no reason you could not keep tbi if you went this route, but data log once you swap the intake on there to make sure you're not running lean at WOT. From there, follow the basic nitrous steps (colder plugs, retard base timing, etc.).

You could go with healthier intake and cam and what not, but I would strongly recommend getting into tuning before going that route, especially if running nitrous.

 

Yeah, I'm with R90 on this one. You don't need new heads or anything either, they make the Performer intakes for 87+ bolt patterns. I'd definitely get something like a Walbro 190 or 255 fuel pump as well.

I would definitely stick with TBI though, it responds well to nitrous and you'll get much better MPG. As for the engine, so you assembled it in may and haven't run it yet? If so, then personally I would fill it up with oil and prime the system with a drill and a priming tool. They loan the tools out for free from any Autozone or Pepboys or something.

Not sure what I'll be running once the engine actually runs. Started tuning it over the summer and then it started pulling rocker studs. It's down for the count now, I'll let everybody know what she runs when I get it back together. I was hoping for maybe a 14 flat though, we'll see.

 

xlwhellraiser
Read up on what Dewey316 has done.......it'll show you some good info on what you are asking.

 

Checking as we speak.


I was thinking of changing my fuel pump, but cutting through the metal up top in the rear hatch and than cutting the lines through to get the pump in and out. What do you guys think??? I know thats what I wanna do, since I want to be able to get to it in few minutes. I just dont have enough time to drop the rear, and than the tank.

My question is, would walbro 225 work right if I used some rubber preassurized lines to connect where I cut my original lines so I could take the pump out through the back???

If not, what kind of fittment would you recomend for those cut lines.

 

I would not suggest cutting into the back, droping the tank is not that bad, takes me about 2 hours to do a pump in these cars. Getting the pickup in and out of the tank from there will not be fun, and you will be cutting up fuel lines, more junctions in the lines = more chance for a leak, or problem.

The 255 should be fine for you application, it is the pump that most peopel choose to go with.

I will also note, that if you are going with intake, and nitrous, and possibly a cam, you will want to get into the chip tuning. It will make things work SO much better, and give you the control to run the nitrous with a margin of saftey, while still retaining good drivability the rest of the time.

 

What Dewey said...............I went the so called "lazy/hacker" way because of a bad back at the time back in '01 and would not recommend it in any way. Do it correctly and drop the tank. I'm going to weld in a stiffiner/cover plate when I get to park the car for an engine change, rear end change, and roll bar install.

Just some 20-20 hindsite........wished I'd never done it.

 

Another for the drop the tank route. It is really not that bad, especially if you have access to a lift. Also, removing the rear end is not necessary, but it does help, especially if you're using jack stands.

Also, when you change pumps, remember to replace the rubber hose that runs from the sending unit to the pump with a high pressure hose. It is only 2"-3" long, but the stock one will not hold up to the pressure the walbro 255 puts out

 

Allright, now that I am done with my TBI giving me hell I can go back to my NOS .
I am thinking about sticking with TBI! I know that my tuning skills are rather bland, but I was thinking into investing some money on PROMINATOR. I can get few different bins installed on there, like get the MPG bin, than get the stage1, stage2 bins from Brian (which I already own) and get a NOS tune, which can run with a stock tune and a good pump. I think Investing into prominator would be the best way to go!. I'll get the one you can switch on the go.

My ingnition is as follows
New MSD blaster Coil
Blue thunder copper cap and rotor
Proseries autolite silicone supressor cables
4tip bosch (the only part that I dont like).

Just after that swap the car picked up like you wouldn't belive. I had a 13's 79 bird, and this car has way more ***** in the lower end. Higher end is what am looking to improve.
Since I am going to have a daily driver and a warrior I thought that NOS would be the best way. I can still keep my MPG, even with my LO5 thats going in. But I can switch to nos whenever I want to.
What do you guys think.

P.S. I love TBI, and everytime there was a problem i contemplated a carb. But I just don't wanna do it. TBI gets the best of both worlds.