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Help my carb is wack

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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: V8 350 ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Posi, Disk brakes all the way aroun
Help my carb is wack

well ever since i had my new exhaust installed my carb or injectors are being *^*ed up . let me explain. when i start my car, sometimes it dies then i got to start it agian....ok once i got it started it seams to runs normal , but it kinda studders and vibrates till it warms up. ok now i put it in drive and wooooooom it bogs all down, i step on gas more and it almost dies, then it fianlly starts to go but its all like....well it acts like it has no gas, like when ur car is dieing from no gas, that what my car acts like. just started doing this. i cant figure it out. iput gas i there , still does the same thing.my check engine light comes on sometimes. also i may add that when i tep on the gas, it smells like something burning. PLEASE HELP!
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Carburetor or TBI?

Check for codes if the check engine light came on and post them here.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 05:56 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: V8 350 ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Posi, Disk brakes all the way aroun
tbi, how do i find wut code number is it....i dnt get where to look for the troble code
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 06:49 AM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Thirdgen tech articles/thirdgen f-body FAQ/miscellaneous info

It's a little difficult to find, try:

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Sounds like they fried your O2 sensor or ECM when welding the exhaust on. They just managed to try to put 200 amps of current through a circuit designed for milivolts. I always unplug my O2 sensor before handing the keys over to an exhaust shop on any car with an O2.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
are you sure it's exhaust related. sounds like a dying fuel pump to me. Could just be bad timing and have nothing to do with the exhaust. G/l with it either way.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 04:29 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: V8 350 ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Posi, Disk brakes all the way aroun
Originally posted by Fast355
Sounds like they fried your O2 sensor or ECM when welding the exhaust on. They just managed to try to put 200 amps of current through a circuit designed for milivolts. I always unplug my O2 sensor before handing the keys over to an exhaust shop on any car with an O2.

yes i think im going to go with your bet, just one question, where is the o2 sencor located and is it easy to take off? any certain things i shoudl know about removeing them,,,alogn with the ecm senor as , well, thx a bunth
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: V8 350 ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Posi, Disk brakes all the way aroun
Originally posted by flaming-ford
are you sure it's exhaust related. sounds like a dying fuel pump to me. Could just be bad timing and have nothing to do with the exhaust. G/l with it either way.
how woudl i test your theroy....i do have to pump the pedal to get enough gas to make eth car try and move. if i dont punp it, or i push it down too long, it dies. Thx a ton for the help
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
If the O2 is gone then you should be able to disconnect it and run in open loop, it should also run in open loop until warmed up, which I don't think it's doing.

First step it to pull your codes and see what they tell us.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 05:05 PM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Passed over the "fried ECM" thing, could be a possibility. Sorry bout that 355.

Still need to check for codes though.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 05:10 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by naf
Passed over the "fried ECM" thing, could be a possibility. Sorry bout that 355.

Still need to check for codes though.
Thats a slim possibility, but it can kill an O2 sensor very easily.

It could just as easily be the fuel pump. But it is strange coincidence that it happened when you put your exhaust on.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: V8 350 ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Posi, Disk brakes all the way aroun
Originally posted by Fast355
Thats a slim possibility, but it can kill an O2 sensor very easily.

It could just as easily be the fuel pump. But it is strange coincidence that it happened when you put your exhaust on.

let me add, after teh exhuast change it slowly started gettign worse and worse with the gas, more so if teh car is cold, but for teh past few weeks, even when its warmed up, still has that "out of gass" feel, just now its so bad i cant even drive it
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: V8 350 ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Posi, Disk brakes all the way aroun
---44---. Oxygen sensor lean


----32----. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve

---23----. Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Throttle position sensor error

Last edited by tigercyberslash; Dec 20, 2005 at 08:13 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 08:54 PM
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
Originally posted by tigercyberslash
how woudl i test your theroy....i do have to pump the pedal to get enough gas to make eth car try and move. if i dont punp it, or i push it down too long, it dies. Thx a ton for the help
You would check the fuel pressure. Throughout the range i think like 10-15psi is normal. Go to the auto store and by you a fuel pressure tester they are fairly cheap.

Although with the codes i just saw this may not at all be your problem (good to know). Some people have had luck with doing a intank fuel pump swap but, they musta got lucky because, nothing this big has ever came together as well for me lol. Theres always at least 1 rusted strap or 1 bolt that won't come out in need of persuasion (bigger hammer hehe). Anyways g/l.
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