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Fuel Pump

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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #1  
Zion's Avatar
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From: Canadia
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 90' TPI 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: posi disc 3.23's
Fuel Pump

I dont know where to put this, but i have a 305 rs that needs the pump changed. Anyone know any way to get out the tank without removing the diff?



also, im new
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #2  
flaming-ford's Avatar
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
only way to do it without removing the rearend would probably be to cut a door over top the rearend in the body itself and change it through the hatch. This is very frowned up on on this forum so if you plan to do it don't ask how to lol.

Check the search for fuel pump replacement and or fuel door or such like that and you should find a way through it quite easily.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 12:38 AM
  #3  
Zion's Avatar
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From: Canadia
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 90' TPI 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: posi disc 3.23's
what if the weld back together makes it stronger?
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 06:37 AM
  #4  
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT, weld the patch panel back in. Your litterally an inch away from rubber fuel lines, and any gas that was spilt while changing the pump WILL ignite. If you do the patch pannel method you have to use silicone and rivet a panel back in. The reason it's frowned upon here is not because it weakens the car, but because there is an increased chance of a fire while trying to cut the floor with fuel lines inches below.

You don't have to remove the intire rear axle. We just unhooked the shocks and dropped the rear as far as it would go without pulling on th brake line. We also took the exhaust hangers loose, but did not remove the exhast. This gave us room to drop the tank without much trouble at all.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 09:11 AM
  #5  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
I agree 100% with BMonte. Cutting an access door is lame and ends up requireing more tools and time to properly do it. Dropping the tank is not that hard. You can lower and or remove the rear end in a matter of minutes. There are like seven total bolts that would have to come out for the rear to be free. You can do that faster than hacking up a hole. My first fuel pump install only took me two hours. I sat their scratching my head as to why everyone complains so much.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 09:45 AM
  #6  
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From: TX
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: 350
Transmission: t-56
I have done more than one fuel pump on a third gen and I don't see how remvoing the rear panels, rolling back the carpet, cut a large hole in the car then take the time to reseal every thing back up is a short cut. I think a third gen needs every thing it can as far as suport no way will I cut out a hole over the axle and tank hump.

Jack the car up undo 2 shock bolts, some times you might have to undo the brake line, the fuel lines and the 2 bolts that hold the tank straps in twist the tank so the filler tube comes out of the quarter and it out. Get a good quality pump not so cheap parts store knock off ( I have donw quite a few tank dops in a row from a parts store that gave me 3 crappy pump that would run for a day of a few hours and die or Just made so much noise it was loader than a flowmaster and hooker headers at idle) Get a A/C delco pump or a warbo or other high quality pump and get at lest the TPI pump not a TBI one. You wil be good to go for the next 10 years.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 03:31 PM
  #7  
Zion's Avatar
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From: Canadia
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 90' TPI 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: posi disc 3.23's
you can use a tpi pump on a tbi car?

anyone heard bad things about carter pumps?
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 03:35 PM
  #8  
Dewey316's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
I currently run a TPI pump in my car, works just fine.

Now, for the people who cut holes in the back of your car, this is absolutly stupid. I for one would not want to be in a car, with a hole cut right above the gas tank. If there was a fire, the rear is designed to keep the fire out out of the passanger compartment.

DON'T half-*** this. It only takes 3 hours or so, to do this job the right way, just pull the rear-end out of the way, drop the exaust, and pull the tank. If you can not handle doing that, then you probably should not be cutting a hole in your car anyway, just pay someone to do the swap.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 12:40 AM
  #9  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
Me and my buddies had to cut the exhaust, because my car never came with the factory adapter for the wheel locks.


The only thing that will really hold the tank back, is that damn filler neck. I replaced mine with fuel rubber hose, but may have cut it too short grrrrr
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 08:49 AM
  #10  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by vorgath



The only thing that will really hold the tank back, is that damn filler neck.
If you remove the bolts that hold the fuel door bucket on by the cap, you have a lot more room to wiggle the neck out.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #11  
camaronewbie's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Search my name - I did mine 2 months ago and did a detail description - I didn't remove my diff - just pushed it aside a bit.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 02:11 PM
  #12  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
Trust me, I did remove the entire fuel door assembly. Still it took us quite a lot of moving around, angle this and that, finally it came out but it was painful.

Flexible filler neck, well actually maybe just 20 percent more flexible, went back in with little or no problem.
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