this is sort of a noob question but i appreciate all the help i can get from you experienced guys. i'm looking to switch to an open element and while i'm at it replace my ignition- cap, distributor, cables, plugs. the car has a tendency to misfire when accelerating, then the check engine light turns on and i get a signifigant loss of power (dropping a cylinder i suppose). my question is, would replacing my ignition setup fix this problem, and what is a good setup. i need to know what size cables, what brands are the best, sizes, places to buy, etc. anything you can tell me is greatly appreciated. thanks.

 

I'm sorry it's been so long and you haven't gotten a response from anyone - it happens sometimes - we all are searching for our answers, and don't always see other's questions. So, if it's not too late, I'll chime in.

First, you need to find out why the computer is not happy. In the tech articles there is a writeup about getting codes, or use search for "codes" or "SES code". You'll need a really expensive specialized tool for this - it's called a paperclip. Report what you get for codes.

You should also check for:

cracked plug wire
plug wire not completely connected to plug/cap
firing order (it's on here, use search)
EST disconnected
(search for "EST wire" for an explaination of what/where it is)
check timing - should be at 0* BTDC

Let us know what you find.

 

when i got my car inspected the check engine light was on due to this problem, the guy gave me a printout and it said MISFIRE on it, so i assume that its misfiring. this is just a problem somewhere in my ignition right?

 

As mentioned you need to find out what code is being thrown. You can go to AutoZone and they can tell you what code is being thrown and or you can use the paperclip method (the procedure escapes me now but a quick search will yield it). From there you will be able to pin point what is causing the misfire. The misfire could be due to a faulty ignition component or it could be a sensor (O2, CTS, etc) that is causing the hick-up. I would obtain a digital volt meter and check the basics. Make sure you have spark at each plug (check the gap why you have it out) and check the resistance of each wire. Double check the base timing (with the EST unplugged) and make sure it is in between 0° and 4° advanced). This type of diagnostics is free and can tell you a lot about the condition of your car.

If you cannot remember the last time the car had a good tune-up I would suggest it. Even if the parts are working fine now a little preventative maintenance goes a long way. A tune includes the replacement of

Plugs (set gap to .035")
Cap
Rotor
Wires (old ones may be fine an Ohm meter will tell you)
Fuel filter
O2 Sensor
Air Filter
Check base timing (unplug EST and set to 0° to 4°).
Cap
Rotor
Wires (old ones may be fine an Ohm meter will tell you)
Fuel filter
O2
Air Filter
Check base timing (unplug EST and set to 0° to 4°).