305 TBI and about 2-3G to spend on it!
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From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
305 TBI and about 2-3G to spend on it!
Okay I am picking up a 91RS from a dealer that my buddy sold it to...he said he put a 350 in it but they said they think its a 305....how could I tell?
Okay this is gonna be my project car for 1-2years so I plan on painting it and making it a street/strip car.
I would like to make 400-450HP flywheel
Should I swap the TBI to TPI or Carb Maybe?
What good mods are for the TBI as in TBI TB, fuel pumps, FPR etc?
I plan on getting a Cam, Intake, Chip burn, 3.73s or a 3.42, 1 5/8s headers, 3inch pipes, MSD, 100 shot or soo, Possible a torque converter what stall tho?, shift kit......
I will be doing all the work myself other than bringing it to a local dyno for the chip burn when they start doing GM cars.
Can someone direct me in the right route....and what models should I use for the list i made up there.....I know everyone will say the Hooker 2055s for the header....but they are real pricey.
Thanks in advance....
Jay
Okay this is gonna be my project car for 1-2years so I plan on painting it and making it a street/strip car.
I would like to make 400-450HP flywheel
Should I swap the TBI to TPI or Carb Maybe?
What good mods are for the TBI as in TBI TB, fuel pumps, FPR etc?
I plan on getting a Cam, Intake, Chip burn, 3.73s or a 3.42, 1 5/8s headers, 3inch pipes, MSD, 100 shot or soo, Possible a torque converter what stall tho?, shift kit......
I will be doing all the work myself other than bringing it to a local dyno for the chip burn when they start doing GM cars.
Can someone direct me in the right route....and what models should I use for the list i made up there.....I know everyone will say the Hooker 2055s for the header....but they are real pricey.
Thanks in advance....
Jay
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
Originally Posted by Jay_rich
Okay I am picking up a 91RS from a dealer that my buddy sold it to...he said he put a 350 in it but they said they think its a 305....how could I tell?
Okay this is gonna be my project car for 1-2years so I plan on painting it and making it a street/strip car.
I would like to make 400-450HP flywheel
Should I swap the TBI to TPI or Carb Maybe?
carb will be the cheapest and least time consuming way to make a reliable 450hp.
What good mods are for the TBI as in TBI TB, fuel pumps, FPR etc?
You can go with a stock tb off of the later model 454 trucks which is said to flow about 650cfm (highly debatable though). As for fuel pumps the board favorite seems to be a walbro pump if staying efi i'd go with the 255lph or 190 lph. In the sticky there shows a way to make an adjustable fuel pressure regulator out of the stock throttle body. You will definetly need some of the big injecters running some real high pressure to make 400-450 hp (hasn't even been done to my knowledge with 2 brrl tbi).
I plan on getting a Cam, Intake, Chip burn, 3.73s or a 3.42, 1 5/8s headers, 3inch pipes, MSD, 100 shot or soo, Possible a torque converter what stall tho?, shift kit......
If you want 450hp out of a small block your going to have to rev it pretty good (for the most part) so i'd say 1 3/4 primary headers would be much better suited or possibly 1 7/8.
The torque converter stall depends souly up on your power band, i'd say to make that kind of power your thinking about 3-4k stall. Then again that also depends up on if your considering the 100 hot of nos as part of the 450hp. Btw you will most likely need aftermarket heads as good as a set of vortecs or better yet afr 190s or such to make that kinda power.
I will be doing all the work myself other than bringing it to a local dyno for the chip burn when they start doing GM cars.
Doubt you will even be able to get this thing to run on a stock tune with that many mods. If so it will run terrible and probably not even rev. Tbi is super tune sensitive.
Can someone direct me in the right route....and what models should I use for the list i made up there.....I know everyone will say the Hooker 2055s for the header....but they are real pricey.
imo i'd look at long tube headers for that power level like 2210s or hedman elites. I've heard very good things about the hedman elites from those few that bought them. They only cost about 330$ ceramic coated with bullet proof tubing and flanges. Problem is hedman makes a kinda crappy y-pipe so you'd probably be best off having a custom one made or you can customize hedmans y.
Truth be told your going to have a hell of time making a stirdy reliable 450hp on that ammount of money though. I'd be thinking more along the lines of 5k minimum if your including stirding up the drivetrain so it doesn't brake every time you romp on it.
Thanks in advance....
Jay
Okay this is gonna be my project car for 1-2years so I plan on painting it and making it a street/strip car.
I would like to make 400-450HP flywheel
Should I swap the TBI to TPI or Carb Maybe?
carb will be the cheapest and least time consuming way to make a reliable 450hp.
What good mods are for the TBI as in TBI TB, fuel pumps, FPR etc?
You can go with a stock tb off of the later model 454 trucks which is said to flow about 650cfm (highly debatable though). As for fuel pumps the board favorite seems to be a walbro pump if staying efi i'd go with the 255lph or 190 lph. In the sticky there shows a way to make an adjustable fuel pressure regulator out of the stock throttle body. You will definetly need some of the big injecters running some real high pressure to make 400-450 hp (hasn't even been done to my knowledge with 2 brrl tbi).
I plan on getting a Cam, Intake, Chip burn, 3.73s or a 3.42, 1 5/8s headers, 3inch pipes, MSD, 100 shot or soo, Possible a torque converter what stall tho?, shift kit......
If you want 450hp out of a small block your going to have to rev it pretty good (for the most part) so i'd say 1 3/4 primary headers would be much better suited or possibly 1 7/8.
The torque converter stall depends souly up on your power band, i'd say to make that kind of power your thinking about 3-4k stall. Then again that also depends up on if your considering the 100 hot of nos as part of the 450hp. Btw you will most likely need aftermarket heads as good as a set of vortecs or better yet afr 190s or such to make that kinda power.
I will be doing all the work myself other than bringing it to a local dyno for the chip burn when they start doing GM cars.
Doubt you will even be able to get this thing to run on a stock tune with that many mods. If so it will run terrible and probably not even rev. Tbi is super tune sensitive.
Can someone direct me in the right route....and what models should I use for the list i made up there.....I know everyone will say the Hooker 2055s for the header....but they are real pricey.
imo i'd look at long tube headers for that power level like 2210s or hedman elites. I've heard very good things about the hedman elites from those few that bought them. They only cost about 330$ ceramic coated with bullet proof tubing and flanges. Problem is hedman makes a kinda crappy y-pipe so you'd probably be best off having a custom one made or you can customize hedmans y.
Truth be told your going to have a hell of time making a stirdy reliable 450hp on that ammount of money though. I'd be thinking more along the lines of 5k minimum if your including stirding up the drivetrain so it doesn't brake every time you romp on it.
Thanks in advance....
Jay
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From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
Im now thinking maybe do a TPI swap first and go from there.....T56 would be nice but a big hassle i would think.
So I will start with a TPI converstion, Headers, Gears then go from there...I think it is gonna be hard to get that power outta a 305.
I would love to run 13's maybe some 12s with NOS would be awesome!
Jay
So I will start with a TPI converstion, Headers, Gears then go from there...I think it is gonna be hard to get that power outta a 305.
I would love to run 13's maybe some 12s with NOS would be awesome!
Jay
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
You won't reach your power goals with TPI unless you switch to a stealth ram and or miniram set-up. Also, if 400+ hp is your goal you will want to ditch the 305. Before you start buying parts start with the simple things. Give the car a tune up and replace the exhaust (from the headers back). Use a full 3" system (order exhaust parts for a '86+ TPI car to ensure 3"). This is only the start. Take some time and read the "new to TBI" sticky above. 2k will not meet your goal and frankly 2k is just enough for gears, full exhaust, and a suspension piece or two. It won't touch the motor.
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Car: 1988 Chevy silverado K5
Engine: 350 bored .030, crane cams hyd bluprint l-79 cam 447 lift 272 dur, camel hump heads port and polished 1.94 1.50, afterburner headers and y pipe, holley 670 cfm tbi, holley projection dual plane manifold, accel high pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust
Transmission: 700 r4 with corvette servo and shift kit.
Originally Posted by ShiftyCapone
You won't reach your power goals with TPI unless you switch to a stealth ram and or miniram set-up. Also, if 400+ hp is your goal you will want to ditch the 305. Before you start buying parts start with the simple things. Give the car a tune up and replace the exhaust (from the headers back). Use a full 3" system (order exhaust parts for a '86+ TPI car to ensure 3"). This is only the start. Take some time and read the "new to TBI" sticky above. 2k will not meet your goal and frankly 2k is just enough for gears, full exhaust, and a suspension piece or two. It won't touch the motor.
Don't know about that... I mean the money... 2k is enough for afr's... your looking at very least 75hp. then hes got another 500 for exhaust and a few other things like injectors and pump.
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From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: 2005 5.3L, LS6 Cam
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: DTS 9" 3.50 TrueTrac
God I think it would be cheaper to Swap in a 350 lol.....I know someone with a 350 needing a rebuild for 150 bucks....does all the 305 stuff swap on...
I think I should just.....TPI, up the FPR, lower intake, maybe LT1 cam, Headers, Gears and NOS.....that should give me around 13's i would say....
I dont even know where to start on this damn thing!
I should just search for a TPI car!
Jay
I think I should just.....TPI, up the FPR, lower intake, maybe LT1 cam, Headers, Gears and NOS.....that should give me around 13's i would say....
I dont even know where to start on this damn thing!
I should just search for a TPI car!
Jay
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally Posted by Jay_rich
God I think it would be cheaper to Swap in a 350 lol.....I know someone with a 350 needing a rebuild for 150 bucks....does all the 305 stuff swap on...
I think I should just.....TPI, up the FPR, lower intake, maybe LT1 cam, Headers, Gears and NOS.....that should give me around 13's i would say....
I dont even know where to start on this damn thing!
I should just search for a TPI car!
Jay
I think I should just.....TPI, up the FPR, lower intake, maybe LT1 cam, Headers, Gears and NOS.....that should give me around 13's i would say....
I dont even know where to start on this damn thing!
I should just search for a TPI car!
Jay
But, do not buy this RS and swap TPI on it, it'd be a pointless move, stepping sideways and not forward with power.
Keep in mind, any car that is speed density i.e. TBI or 91-92 TPI, you WILL need to do chip tuning if you change the cam and heads, that's just a fact of life when modding these cars. One good thing with TBI is that it's pretty cheap to upgrade the intake system, because you can use any carb intake manifold and an adapter plate. TPI aftermarket stuff is very expensive.
For the power you're looking for, it isn't smart to start off with a 305, it just makes it harder to attain. Start with 350 or bigger.
Blazin, for the AFR heads, they wouldn't even work well on a 305, because they have large chambers and I believe they come with nothing smaller than a 2.02/1.50 valve combination which doesn't physically fit with a 305's bore.
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Don't know about that... I mean the money... 2k is enough for afr's... your looking at very least 75hp. then hes got another 500 for exhaust and a few other things like injectors and pump.
The stock heads are not bottlenecks on these cars until you are making near 300 HP. An AFR head swap would get you no where unless you already have plans (and the mods) to exceed that value. $500 for a exhaust? Maybe used but certainly not new. You will spend on average $400+ just for headers alone.
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Car: 1988 Chevy silverado K5
Engine: 350 bored .030, crane cams hyd bluprint l-79 cam 447 lift 272 dur, camel hump heads port and polished 1.94 1.50, afterburner headers and y pipe, holley 670 cfm tbi, holley projection dual plane manifold, accel high pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust
Transmission: 700 r4 with corvette servo and shift kit.
dude where are you getting parts? Maybe if your getting em done by a shop... Headers run you 230 or so ceramic coated. I really don't care all that much just wanted to voice my opinion.
Oh yeah.... I was thinking this was a 350... haha
Oh yeah.... I was thinking this was a 350... haha
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,758
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
dude where are you getting parts? Maybe if your getting em done by a shop... Headers run you 230 or so ceramic coated.
Um no. The coating may be $200 but not the header and coating combined. Even the cheapest coated headers out there (flowtechs, pacesetters or summits) will still run you over $300. Show me these magical prices.
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
You wanna talk prices! I bought my 2055's from summit for 379.00.I wanted to modify them to get the most I could from them i.e open up the holes on the collectors,remove air pipes and clean up the casting flash.Just to have them coated with my tgo discount was 272.38 Ypipe included and I dropped them off there my self to save alittle on shipping.so no getting stuff cheap is a pain to find for "quality" pieces.
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Car: 1988 Chevy silverado K5
Engine: 350 bored .030, crane cams hyd bluprint l-79 cam 447 lift 272 dur, camel hump heads port and polished 1.94 1.50, afterburner headers and y pipe, holley 670 cfm tbi, holley projection dual plane manifold, accel high pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust
Transmission: 700 r4 with corvette servo and shift kit.
Originally Posted by ShiftyCapone
Um no. The coating may be $200 but not the header and coating combined. Even the cheapest coated headers out there (flowtechs, pacesetters or summits) will still run you over $300. Show me these magical prices.
Here ya go.
JEGS High Performance - Dynomax Cyclone Cerama-Coat Headers
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From: Gladstone, Missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0L TBI (ebl inside)
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 lsd 10 bolt
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
aren't dynomax's another version of flowtechs?
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From: Ohio, near columbus
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easiest way for power imo would be vortec heads 800$ after machining and work and all max. Then buy a comp cams k-kit something like xe262 (300$) or maybe a little bigger depending on what your willing to sacrifice then buy a 350 block (300$) or less already machined when lucky, buy a rebuild kit (200)$ from northernautoparts.com. Buy a performer air gap(200$) or performer rpm intake(150), and 650(400$) carb or thereabouts, 300$ set of lt headers and a 150$ dizzy That'll get you 12s and plenty of power but, it depends exactly what you want.
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Car: 78 Caprice Coupe
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Originally Posted by BronYrAur
Getting a 350 TPI car from the get go would be your best bet if you can find one cheap enough and in good condition.
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Here ya go.
JEGS High Performance - Dynomax Cyclone Cerama-Coat Headers
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Lets see here.
Not one of those headers is for the 3rd gen platform and to boot the cheapest on is $260 before taxes. What you also fail to see is that you will need a y-pipe, header bolts, and quality gaskets. In addition the coating on those headers (and flowtechs) is pure garbage and will not last. So $230 is now $400. These types of headers also have small primaries and weak flanges. They will leak and they will warp. Everything about them sucks.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; Apr 13, 2006 at 12:04 PM.
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From: The nation's capital
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
You don't know if it's a 305 or 350? You might want to establish that before you start putting parts on it.
Visually it might be hard. A quick way to determine is to strap it to a dyno and look at the numbers. Either way, atleast you have a baseline.
You could also check the ESC module or knock sensor for a part number as well as what kind of injectors you have. That's assuming of course whoever did it didn't cut some major corners while doing the swap.
Remember also though that 450 hp is nice and all, but a stock worn out 91 700R4 and rear end isn't going to last very long with that kind of abuse w/o atleast a rebuild.
Visually it might be hard. A quick way to determine is to strap it to a dyno and look at the numbers. Either way, atleast you have a baseline.
You could also check the ESC module or knock sensor for a part number as well as what kind of injectors you have. That's assuming of course whoever did it didn't cut some major corners while doing the swap.
Remember also though that 450 hp is nice and all, but a stock worn out 91 700R4 and rear end isn't going to last very long with that kind of abuse w/o atleast a rebuild.
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Car: 1988 Chevy silverado K5
Engine: 350 bored .030, crane cams hyd bluprint l-79 cam 447 lift 272 dur, camel hump heads port and polished 1.94 1.50, afterburner headers and y pipe, holley 670 cfm tbi, holley projection dual plane manifold, accel high pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust
Transmission: 700 r4 with corvette servo and shift kit.
Originally Posted by ShiftyCapone
Lets see here.
Not one of those headers is for the 3rd gen platform and to boot the cheapest on is $260 before taxes. What you also fail to see is that you will need a y-pipe, header bolts, and quality gaskets. In addition the coating on those headers (and flowtechs) is pure garbage and will not last. So $230 is now $400. These types of headers also have small primaries and weak flanges. They will leak and they will warp. Everything about them sucks.
Not one of those headers is for the 3rd gen platform and to boot the cheapest on is $260 before taxes. What you also fail to see is that you will need a y-pipe, header bolts, and quality gaskets. In addition the coating on those headers (and flowtechs) is pure garbage and will not last. So $230 is now $400. These types of headers also have small primaries and weak flanges. They will leak and they will warp. Everything about them sucks.
First off I'm not thinking in a third gen mentality... I'm from ck5, therefore I'm a dumass because I was thinking this was a truck site. Second, Your statement about leaking, small primaries, etc is just what they want you to think so you go out and buy the big buck headers. Red rtv is about 4 bucks and will seal up headers just the same as a 50 dollar gasket. Don't beleive me? Ask around. The coating is a ceramic coating... they just call the header cerama coat. Why do you need strong headers? 16 gauge on the tubes are paper but what the hell would you have to be doing to bend em? Also I don't see ANY sizes of the flanges on there... seems like your just speculating...(I've bought flowtechs and depending on the headers the flanges are pretty beefy) No offense but there are 2 kinds of people when it comes to wrenching... people who get brainwashed into thinking they have to spend serious money to do anything "right" and the others are looking for strictly function not the you get what you pay for mentallity. Honestly I don't really care if the coating came off because they would be getting wrapped in header tape anyway. Don't get me wrong... I don't mean to disrespect you I just don't agree.
When it comes down to it you will buy your 400 dollar headers and 200 dollar exhaust and I will buy my 269 dollar headers and weld up my exhaust... it will make the same hp (maybe minus 5) but it will sound good make decent power and look fine.
Once again I mean no disrespect... I'm just voicing my opinion.
Last edited by Blazin4x4; Apr 13, 2006 at 08:52 PM.
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
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Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
First off I'm not thinking in a third gen mentality... I'm from ck5, therefore I'm a dumass because I was thinking this was a truck site. Second, Your statement about leaking, small primaries, etc is just what they want you to think so you go out and buy the big buck headers. Red rtv is about 4 bucks and will seal up headers just the same as a 50 dollar gasket. Don't beleive me? Ask around. The coating is a ceramic coating... they just call the header cerama coat. Why do you need strong headers? 16 gauge on the tubes are paper but what the hell would you have to be doing to bend em? Also I don't see ANY sizes of the flanges on there... seems like your just speculating...(I've bought flowtechs and depending on the headers the flanges are pretty beefy) No offense but there are 2 kinds of people when it comes to wrenching... people who get brainwashed into thinking they have to spend serious money to do anything "right" and the others are looking for strictly function not the you get what you pay for mentallity. Honestly I don't really care if the coating came off because they would be getting wrapped in header tape anyway. Don't get me wrong... I don't mean to disrespect you I just don't agree.
When it comes down to it you will buy your 400 dollar headers and 200 dollar exhaust and I will buy my 269 dollar headers and weld up my exhaust... it will make the same hp (maybe minus 5) but it will sound good make decent power and look fine.
Once again I mean no disrespect... I'm just voicing my opinion.
When it comes down to it you will buy your 400 dollar headers and 200 dollar exhaust and I will buy my 269 dollar headers and weld up my exhaust... it will make the same hp (maybe minus 5) but it will sound good make decent power and look fine.
Once again I mean no disrespect... I'm just voicing my opinion.
Anything wrapped in header tape doesn't "look fine."
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Car: 1988 Chevy silverado K5
Engine: 350 bored .030, crane cams hyd bluprint l-79 cam 447 lift 272 dur, camel hump heads port and polished 1.94 1.50, afterburner headers and y pipe, holley 670 cfm tbi, holley projection dual plane manifold, accel high pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust
Transmission: 700 r4 with corvette servo and shift kit.
but it makes more power, keeps the motor cooler, and makes for more effecient scavenging.
Last edited by Blazin4x4; Apr 13, 2006 at 11:18 PM.
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Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
First off I'm not thinking in a third gen mentality... I'm from ck5, therefore I'm a dumass because I was thinking this was a truck site. Second, Your statement about leaking, small primaries, etc is just what they want you to think so you go out and buy the big buck headers. Red rtv is about 4 bucks and will seal up headers just the same as a 50 dollar gasket. Don't beleive me? Ask around. The coating is a ceramic coating... they just call the header cerama coat. Why do you need strong headers? 16 gauge on the tubes are paper but what the hell would you have to be doing to bend em? Also I don't see ANY sizes of the flanges on there... seems like your just speculating...(I've bought flowtechs and depending on the headers the flanges are pretty beefy) No offense but there are 2 kinds of people when it comes to wrenching... people who get brainwashed into thinking they have to spend serious money to do anything "right" and the others are looking for strictly function not the you get what you pay for mentallity. Honestly I don't really care if the coating came off because they would be getting wrapped in header tape anyway. Don't get me wrong... I don't mean to disrespect you I just don't agree.
When it comes down to it you will buy your 400 dollar headers and 200 dollar exhaust and I will buy my 269 dollar headers and weld up my exhaust... it will make the same hp (maybe minus 5) but it will sound good make decent power and look fine.
Once again I mean no disrespect... I'm just voicing my opinion.
When it comes down to it you will buy your 400 dollar headers and 200 dollar exhaust and I will buy my 269 dollar headers and weld up my exhaust... it will make the same hp (maybe minus 5) but it will sound good make decent power and look fine.
Once again I mean no disrespect... I'm just voicing my opinion.
Fact is that you don't need $500 or $600 headers to make 200 hp. Ceramic coating is nice (I can touch my headers after 20 minutes of cool down, why I'd want to? Not sure, but I can) but isn't a necessity at all. I do agree that flatness of the flanges will be an issue with cheap headers, but it's an issue that can be easily resolved. If I were building a car to be a 14 second car, or even a 13 second car, el-cheapo headers definitely do the trick, but if I knew that an engine swap was coming down the road (as in my turd), going with large primary, good fit headers will be worth the investment. Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
First off I'm not thinking in a third gen mentality... I'm from ck5, therefore I'm a dumass because I was thinking this was a truck site. .
Forgiven.
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Second, Your statement about leaking, small primaries, etc is just what they want you to think so you go out and buy the big buck headers. .
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Why do you need strong headers? 16 gauge on the tubes are paper but what the hell would you have to be doing to bend em? .
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Also I don't see ANY sizes of the flanges on there... seems like your just speculating...(I've bought flowtechs and depending on the headers the flanges are pretty beefy)
.
.
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
No offense but there are 2 kinds of people when it comes to wrenching... people who get brainwashed into thinking they have to spend serious money to do anything "right" and the others are looking for strictly function not the you get what you pay for mentality. .
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
When it comes down to it you will buy your 400 dollar headers and 200 dollar exhaust and I will buy my 269 dollar headers and weld up my exhaust... it will make the same hp (maybe minus 5) but it will sound good make decent power and look fine. .
Flow Tech headers
Originally Posted by Blazin4x4
Once again I mean no disrespect... I'm just voicing my opinion.
None offense taken and the feeling is mutual. You must realize that after installing three sets of different headers on these cars opinions hold little merit to me.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; Apr 16, 2006 at 08:49 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Car: 1988 Chevy silverado K5
Engine: 350 bored .030, crane cams hyd bluprint l-79 cam 447 lift 272 dur, camel hump heads port and polished 1.94 1.50, afterburner headers and y pipe, holley 670 cfm tbi, holley projection dual plane manifold, accel high pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust
Transmission: 700 r4 with corvette servo and shift kit.
Point well taken,
I'm a fabricator myself so I can respect designing your own parts, brackets,etc and I'm gonna go ahead and bow down on this one. I know my fair share about trucks but thirdgens is a new concept.
I will say this though... you guys know your shiat... everyone on here has something helpful to add instead of attacking you like some other websites. My truck would not even be close if it wasn't for your guys' computer tuning knowledge.
keep up the good work...
Is there something brown on my nose...LOL
I'm a fabricator myself so I can respect designing your own parts, brackets,etc and I'm gonna go ahead and bow down on this one. I know my fair share about trucks but thirdgens is a new concept.
I will say this though... you guys know your shiat... everyone on here has something helpful to add instead of attacking you like some other websites. My truck would not even be close if it wasn't for your guys' computer tuning knowledge.
keep up the good work...
Is there something brown on my nose...LOL
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Quebec
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolts 2.73
I say get a 335 out of your 305 by gatting a 350 crank , put some L05 heads on it stay TBI with a brand new custom tuned Holley 670 cfm unit w a high flow fuel pump and a nice performer RPM intake manifold and a tbi adapter plate , a big lift big duration cam , a custom exhaust n headers , a 700r4 with a shift kit and a 3000 stall , and a nice 3.73 posi out in the back ...Were way past the 3g budget though so why not some roller rockers and a roller cam ...
Last edited by golden; Apr 17, 2006 at 03:07 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 263
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From: TX
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: 350
Transmission: t-56
Originally Posted by golden
I say get a 335 out of your 305 by gatting a 350 crank , put some L05 heads on it stay TBI with a brand new custom tuned Holley 670 cfm unit w a high flow fuel pump and a nice performer RPM intake manifold and a tbi adapter plate , a big lift big duration cam , a custom exhaust n headers , a 700r4 with a shift kit and a 3000 stall , and a nice 3.73 posi out in the back ...Were way past the 3g budget though so why not some roller rockers and a roller cam ...
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,426
Likes: 497
From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by 91RedFirebird
a 350 crank in a 305 makes a 305.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,663
Likes: 9
From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
Stroking a 305 makes absolutely no sense financially or performance wise. For the cost of a stock 305 rebuild kit you can buy a 350 block and rebuild kit, a stroker kit for a 305 adds another 300-500$ to this. Also with a stroker 305 you’re stuck with crappy small cylinder size that shrouds the valves and prevents you from bigger than 1.92 valves. Not to mention that a balance job on a 400 crank is going to be mucho expensive.
Did I mention this makes no sense? I’m not trying to be rude, but 99.9% of people aren’t going to have a clue as to what size your motor is. Out of the .1% that would be able to tell I doubt they would want to crawl over the back of your motor to check the casting numbers. Seriously….get a 350 and be done with it. Cheaper, faster, and easier to mod.
Did I mention this makes no sense? I’m not trying to be rude, but 99.9% of people aren’t going to have a clue as to what size your motor is. Out of the .1% that would be able to tell I doubt they would want to crawl over the back of your motor to check the casting numbers. Seriously….get a 350 and be done with it. Cheaper, faster, and easier to mod.
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