how do i replace the electric fuel pump with out making a red neck trap door in the trunk area?

 

you have to drop the exhaust... im changing mine next weekend.

 

you should tell me how it goes i might have to use a sawall on my muffler and may have to drop the axel another guy told me you don't have to drop the axel.

 

i'll let you know.. im going to cut the exhaust as well( near the converter) i think the converter might be plugged. as far as the axel goes, i hope not! ill find out soon enough

 

If still stock - you shouldn't have to cut the exhaust - there should be bolts where the intermediary pipe attaches to the cat - unbolt the exhaust there and wiggle it out over the rear axle.

To get the exhaust out, you have to jack the rear of the car at least 18 inches (jack under the differential - a $29 walmart jack won't jack it enough), then put jack stands under the frame just in front of the lower control arm mounts. Then the rear can then be lowered (with wheels off, shocks disconnected, and sway bar end links removed) enough to wiggle the exhaust out of the way without disturbing the muffler/I-pipe/tailpipe connections. Just watch the brake hose on the driver side rear - you don't want to stretch it or break it when lowering the rear. When lowering the rear this far, the coil springs will fall out - watch your head.

I've done it twice (2 different cars) - check my post this thread for details:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...placement.html

 

I have aftermarket exhaust system i don't have those annoying clamps every thing is a welded its going to cost me 10 bucks to reweld the thing back on.
thanks thats very helpful. thirdgen should have that on the tech section for the electric fuel pump replacement

 

hah, it's not worth the space.

i just did it two days ago, it's quite a bit easier then it sounds...

took me and my pops about 3 hours, I'd suggest not bothering trying NOT to drop the rear, you'll end up dropping it in the end anyway, just give in and drop the damn thing, it's not a big deal. also, if you get the chance, try to make sure the tank is empty first, i had the unfortunate experience of having my pump die AT the gas station RIGHT AFTER FILLING MY FRIGGIN TANK.

coulda cut about 45 mins if we hadn't of had to empty the tank, and if we've of just dropped the rear in the first place.

that's really all I personally can suggest, otherwise it's suprisingly straightforward.

oh, make sure you keep your 13 and 15mm sockets and box end wrenches handy, we used those 90% of the time. there were a few 18's and 21's, but not much.

otherwise, don't sweat it, I have a harder time doing a tuneup on this damn car then doing that.

 

oh, three more tips:

1. yes, pay VERY CLOSE ATTENTION to that drivers side brake line, as your whole rearend will end up being supported by it if you're not careful.

2. assuming your whole exhaust is not welded in, all you have to do is unbolt the two bolts at the cat, remove the hangers, and slide it to one side. we never even took it off of the rearend.

3. when it comes time to remove the tank, the easiest(and actually the way explained in the books) way to unhook the filler neck is to pull the front of the tank down, then push it forward, so that if you were actually looking at the filler neck, the hole would first move counter-clockwise 90 deg, then the whole neck would move left.(this btw, is where the dropping of the rearend helps a heap)