How does this sound....

L03
edelbrock tbi intake, 454 tbi, spacer, lt1 cam, slp coated shorty headers, some sorta 3inch back exhaust, bbk intank fuel pump, plugs+wires+coil, and K&N filter, professionaly burnt PROM.... all with a WCT5, and a 4.10 LSD??

any estimates on 1/4 time/power?

should hit 13's right??

Sounds like 13's to me.

with a full weighted car I see mid 14's or 15's.

If the tune turns out real well and you can shift and get traction I'm betting you could hit 13's with that setup. The only flaw I see in your plan is I've never heard of anyone getting a professionally tuned TBI chip that was actually spot on, you may want to look into an EBL and DIY tuning.

Skip the TBI intake and go with a low profile single plane and adapter plate. Then seriously consider if the $300-$500-??? is worth it to have a half *** tune that only runs well at WOT.

I'm sure there are tuners out there that know what they are doing, but there are very few that really understand TBI. I would interrogate your tuner and find out where he got his information. If he doesn't say thirdgen or GM.....then he really doesn't know TBI all that well. As far as I know this site is the only place on the net for chip burning info for TBI's. TBI isn't all that difficult to tune, it just different from other forms of FI. There are some really small simple things that would throw you for loops if you didn't know what you were looking at. With the slow logging rate of our ECM's it's going to be pretty tuff to get a good tune in an hour or two on the dyno.

Edit: I think Dewey is running mid to low 14's with a setup much like that only with a slightly larger cam, and ported non-swirl port heads. So 13's is probably out of reach. A bigger cam and some head work would get you there.

With stock 187 heads and a good tune you'll make in the vicinity of 275 hp.

With stock 187s setup for increased lift only, a big roller CraneCams, 1.6:1 rockers, an edelbrock 3704 intake bored to 2", a 1" open center spacer, long tube headers (1 3/4" x 3.5", 3" dual exhaust with cats), 9.8:1 compression, and tuning, I was able to pull 240 RWHP.

I'm with the 14'-15's. I have a 4000lbs malibu wagon with a vortec 330/350 engine, but more vomp bigger cam, ebl, 454 tb and i got a 13.9 last friday. I have more tuning to do, and it was a very hot humid PA day. just my .02

i see you want some slp headers im somewhat local to you im willing to sell my slp 1 3/4 headers w/ y-pipe, cat adapter, random technology high flow cat, and slp 3" powerflo catback.

thanks for the help guys, im really trying to find the best set-up thats streetable and still able to pull some decent times in the 1/4.... a little off topic but...would you guys reccomend 4.10's or 3.73's? i no the pro's and cons to both, but im curious to see whats popular... also... what GM cars/trucks came with a posi unit that i would be able to pull at the local bone-yard? im on a budget and i can deff find something at the 5 local yards i just need to know that vehicles to look for.... thanks again for all the responses!

For an auto 3.42's for a stick 3.73's.

I second that.

awesome, this works going into a t5 camaro, so 3.73's it is, any word on what kinda car/truck i can get a "posi" from that will bolt into my 91 rs?

i just got 3.73's installed in my camaro and theyre awesome. i think 4.10's would be too short for the car.
if you're wanting to run 13's youre gonna have to do more than engine work. try to get rid of some weight and build your suspension, too.

3.73's wont throw the motor out of its powerband too fast?

believe me i know about weight reduction, but i got another question for you f-body guru's, would subframes help me or hurt me in the 1/4? i've heard arguing points supporting both sides.... and for the gears i think 3.73 is absolutly perfect for my set-up

Probably neither, a stiff chassis really doesn't matter at the power level you're at. With that said, it would be on the top of my list of things to do. It greatly reduces interior rattles and squeeks, and might even allow your T-tops to seal once the car quites flexing like a wet rag.

oh yea, and what kinda car/truck has a posi/LS can i pull and install with no problems? how can i tell if the vehicle has one? i really need to get to the track soon and i deff need all the traction i get even though my car isnt THAT much of a beast, but every little bit helps

Your car being a 91' has the larger 28 spline axles vs. the 26 spline axles of the older models. So you're pretty much stuck with getting one out of a 89+ 3rd gen or better yet getting a take out posi from a 4th gen. I think SLP has stopped selling them but they are still pretty easy to find on ebay. On top of that they are a torsens design wich I like better than the old cone setup that the rest of the GM line got. If you want to source some older weaker 26 spline axles you can get a posi out of any GM vehicle that had a 7.5" 10 bolt, S-10's and vans were a good place to find them. A lot of 4-cyl s-10's had 3.42,3.73 or even 4.11 gears from the factory. You can use these gears in your rear end.

Your the man BMmonteSS, thanks so much for the help, since im not to fimiliar with building a rear diff, would this work?

eBay Motors: 1993-1997 CAMARO OR FIREBIRD 3 SERIES POSI UNIT (item 260013623317 end time Aug-03-06 05:19:45 PDT)

also, does anyone know if theres a detailed "posi/gear install" how-to thread?

You do not want that one it has the ring on it for abs it is just extra work for you if you are putting in the diff yourself it is going to take a few trys to get the lash correct there is a solid spacer instead of a factory crush style one that makes it easier i m sure someone will explain it better then i did.

thanks bordemkills, good to know, how about a full 4th gen rear with disc brakes? will i encounter any problems besides the proportioning valve when installing it? or will it be a direct swap? i can get a full set-up cheap like $200 bucks for one with about 90k miles.....also what proportioning valve should i use?

As far as I know there is no reason the ABS gear would effect anything. It's just along for the ride.

The only problem I see is that you probably have 2.73 gears which is a 2 series carrier. Anything numerically below 3.23 is a 2 series, 3.23 and up is a 3 series. I don't suggest setting up gears for the newbie, there is a lot involved. A 4th gen rear won't work unless you swap to a 4th gen rim since it's 2" wider.

cant i use wheel adapters for now? and just throw in a 4th gen rear? make more sense than to go out and waste my time pulling a posi and finding out it wont work or something, rather do it as a whole thing, plus it will have disc brakes in the back that are bigger than the front... YAY lol


but seriously, would that be another problem witha 4th gen rear? considering the fact that (im pretty sure) the rear discs on a 4thgen are bigger than the fronts on a 3rd gen?

...just wanna say that i appreciate all the help.... i've done alot of things with cars before, excluding re-building a rear/trans..... ive already built a motor (man i miss my old car!)

Wheel spacers make the rear wider, you need to make it narrower to work with your stock rims. It just won't work unless you swap wheels too.