tb coolant bypass
I think you're thinking of the mod for the TPI cars. If you bypass the throttle body in a TBI car, you're going to do a whole lot of sitting around... If you actually mean the mod for TPI then I have no idea.
Steve
Steve
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From: Tempe, AZ
Car: 92 RS, 02 Tacoma, 2 73 Porsche 914s
No its not.
There isnt any coolant running through a TBI throttle body.
Trust us, Its TPI.
Post this there and watch em all asnwer you question.
Better yet Ill do it for you. Heres a past post in TPI section.
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000363.html
Here is how you find stuff like this. https://www.thirdgen.org/cgi-bin/mes...i?action=intro
There isnt any coolant running through a TBI throttle body.
Trust us, Its TPI.
Post this there and watch em all asnwer you question.
Better yet Ill do it for you. Heres a past post in TPI section.
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000363.html
Here is how you find stuff like this. https://www.thirdgen.org/cgi-bin/mes...i?action=intro
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
There is no words "coolant bypass" in the Unlimate TBI tech article. Really, that is only a TPI TB mod. We don't even have coolant running into our TB so how could it be a bypass?
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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list)
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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list)
Trending Topics
As a matter of fact it does not say tbi anywhere in the title or the article. The title is "Throttle Body Coolant Bypass" Not Throttle Body Injection, so it is not refering to TBI cars. A throttle body is simply the housing in which the throttle blades are, while TBI has that important "injection" added to the end of it signifying that the injectors are placed at the throttle body, not elsewhere as in a TPI engine. In the body of the article there are repeated references to the "tb" not "tbi"; tb is used to avoid writing out throttle body dozens of times. If you would take another look at the article you would also see a picture of a TPI throttle body, which could never be mistaken for a TBI throttle body by anyone who's even seen one. The only reference to "Ultimate TBI" anywhere is in the link posted above the coolant bypass article.
------------------
"Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting." - Steve McQueen - LeMans
305 TBI, T-5. 15.4@92 mph
Member Southern California Third Gen F-Bodies
AOL IM: Andy89RS
[EDIT] damn wrong spelling everywhere...
[This message has been edited by Andy89RS (edited November 01, 2000).]
------------------
"Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting." - Steve McQueen - LeMans
305 TBI, T-5. 15.4@92 mph
Member Southern California Third Gen F-Bodies
AOL IM: Andy89RS
[EDIT] damn wrong spelling everywhere...
[This message has been edited by Andy89RS (edited November 01, 2000).]
Well, folks, there's a prime example of why pregnant women should not smoke crack.
Below are cut-and-paste from the tech articles themselves, the first from the one titled "Throttle Body Coolant Bypass", the second title "Ultimate TBI" Both are under the heading of "carbs/f.i." Can anybody that has not smoked crack within the last hour tell me where exactly the first article ever says TBI, or where the second says anything about a coolant bypass??? Does everyone here understand that "Throttle Body" does not mean TBI? As for the diagram itself, the only words in it are: "To intake manifold water outlet", "From heater control valve/diverter", and "copper/brass patch coupling" If you want to read the "Ultimate TBI" article I would suggest clicking on that link, not one below it.
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Instructions
By IROCZDave(iroczdave@aol.com)
This procedure is considered a "free modification."
After doing this myself on my engine (88' 350 TPI) I noticed a difference in the throttle responce right away, as far as horsepower, well I've heard you may get 5 additional HP out of this.
From what I have read GM incorperated this into the throttle body to prevent any kind of freezing of the TB valve in extreme cold conditions by having water from the cooling system run through it.
This heats up the throttle body quite a bit (just try touching the "Tuned Port Injection" plate after a long drive) and from what I understand there is a possibility that the incoming air may be warmed slightly.
You want the air going into your intake system as cool as possible I've heard, cooler air has more density, that's all I know.
There are two ways to do this, both have the same results, I will cover both in this article and you can decide which is to your liking.
NOTE: If you live in an area where extreme cold conditions exist I would not recommend this procedure.
The above diagram shows the "quick" method using a hard tube (approx. 5\8") to connect the existing hoses using clamps.
This takes little time to do, however if you are a stickler for details as I am this looks like a quicky job.
I simply got a new piece of 5/8" hose with a built in (90 degree) elbow, and ran it from the black plastic heater control valve/diverter and down to the intake manifold outlet this took about 10" of hose to do and looks much better!
NOTE: Place the elbow end of the new hose at the intake outlet.
Now after you have everything back togther take you car out for nice long drive and when you get back, open the hood and feel the TB, it's cool to the touch!
You can leave the water outlets on the TB open if you wish, or do what I did!
I got some new 5/8" hose and from the left side TB water outlet ran the hose over past the battery through the fender and down under the battery tray , attacthed a small pickup funnel to the end of the hose and mounted it to the fender support bracket facing forward for maximum air pick up.
Then another piece of 5\8" hose from the right side TB water outlet ran next to the upper radiator hose, down next to the radiator and under the car, pointing rearward.
What this does basically is "air cools" the TB housing while your driving, I don't have the air volume specs if there is any to take in the first place, it's just an idea I had and I decided to try it.
Remember I cannot prove if this really has any effect at all it's really just a little experiment of mine so if you choose feel free to try it!
Ultimate TBI
By Pablo Morales (olbap@bellsouth.net)
Aircleaner options, mods, and specifications
Stock Aircleaner
The stock aircleaner element can only effectively feed a 305 motor to 4500 rpm and that isnt even the greatest restriction, the single neck that is approximately 1" by 2" is, not enough flow for all but the weakest of 4 cylinders. With that said some modifications are still possible.
Remove air silencer ringthat is tack welded around the mouth of the aircleaner that encircles the throttle body. This requires air to enter directly from the top. Removal requires breaking the tack welds.
Removal of Thermac Device: The thermac is a temperature/vacuum controlled valve that directs heat from the exhaust manifold to the intake when it is below a certain temperature to decrease emmisions. The flap is a direct threat to intake airflow. To remove: The vacuum hose that connects to the aircleaner from the throttle body must be plugged. Remove the preheater duct hose that comes from the top of the exhaust manifold. It may be left at that however for added gains one may "Gut" the device by removing the flap, rod and plunger from the intake path. This requires a bit of ingenuity and a bit of a hack job. You will need to cover the hole on the bottom of the neck if you are ducting cooler air to the aircleaner.
Ram Air. The neck to the aircleaner has an opening that is 3" in diameter. Most hardware/home stores sell 3" diameter aluminum ducting typically used to expell hot clothing drier gasses. If your battery is on the passenger side of the car you are in luck. You will need to relocate your evaporative canister located in the front driver side engine compartment. I have moved it over to the framerail next to the radiator though removal of cruise control is neccesary. From there you will need to make a slightly larger than 3" hole in the sheet metal where the EVAP. canister used to sit. Run the aluminum ducting from the neck through the hole and affix it to the bottom of the car facing forward. At speeds this will create a ram air effect pushing cool air into the tubing.
Lid from 350 GM pickup truck Any aircleaner lid from any carbureted or TBI chevy truck from 1968 to current allows for the use of a taller aircleaner element. This will provide gains until the rpm at which the neck becomes the greatest restriction.
H.O. Dual Snorkel aircleaner
The H.O. dual snorkle air cleaner was available on L69 305 carbureted f-body engines up until '87. It features two air inlet necks on opposite sides which are larger than the single neck stock aircleaner. It uses the same filter element and can also use the same chevy truck lid to use a larger element.
Advantages: Cold air induction, more than twice the flow potential of the stock unit, and no hot underhood air getting sucked in.
Disadvantages: It may be of some difficulty to adapt to TBI cars with A.I.R. components in the way on the passenger side above valve cover. The necks are still a limiting factor to airflow, but this does outperform the stock air cleaner by far. Also, the snorkels do come with THERMAC valves, limiting airflow. Typical cost: From $20 (used), to $250 (new).
Aftermarket Open Element
Open element air cleaners are just that. The element is exposed on all sides to the open air. They are available from numerous companies in a variety of styles and prices.
To accomplish this mod the vacuum line to the thermac must be plugged, the IAT (Intake air temperature) sensor must be removed from the stock aircleaner. It can be relocated to the open element base but is not necessary. Power may be gained by relocating to a cool area. The breather may be left to the open air without worry. Any Drop aircleaner will work. All will give noticeable gains. Please see THE ULTIMATE below before you spend your cash.
Advantages: Almost unlimited flow potential. Very low price, very good horsepower to dollar ratio. Huge seat of the pants difference. Very easy mod to accomplish.
Disadvantages: Engine now takes in slightly hotter air allbeit more air. Non factory appearance.
The Ultimate
Take note of the gold iridite finish spacer ring on the TBI unit. This serves to lift the stock drop aircleaner so as to not interfere with the TBI components which surround it. Talk about compromises! GM used a spacer to raise the drop aircleaner! The spacer greatly limits flow since it forces air to flow only through the top of the TBI unit this causes the injectors over the TBI to be another flow restriction.
The solution for improvement:
A typical non drop aircleaner that is slightly clearanced for throttle linkage works perfectly as long as a larger 3" tall element is used. GREATLY improving flow not only with a larger element but by unshrouding the TB bores. A Double whammy! Look for the typical "Mr. Gasket" Non drop aircleaner sold at most autoparts stores. Remember you will need a larger element to keep the lid at the right height.
For even more flow
Try an Xstream aircleaner lid along with K&N filter. The Xstream lid makes the entire lid another filtering surface. The K&N filter flows more as well. For a ram effect you can go as far as a ram air hood or a cowl induction hood.
Reccomendations: Removal of the rear hood seal, this is an old-school hot-rodder tip to let some hot air out. *Warning* removal of hood seal may let some water in the engine compartment, and on the distributor, but I haven't had any problems with it so far.
****NOTE**** If your air cleaner housing rubs against the coil wires, I suggest adding a piece of cardboard to stop the rubbing, if these wires ground out, your car is screwed, big time. You will be stranded on the side of the road.
Below are cut-and-paste from the tech articles themselves, the first from the one titled "Throttle Body Coolant Bypass", the second title "Ultimate TBI" Both are under the heading of "carbs/f.i." Can anybody that has not smoked crack within the last hour tell me where exactly the first article ever says TBI, or where the second says anything about a coolant bypass??? Does everyone here understand that "Throttle Body" does not mean TBI? As for the diagram itself, the only words in it are: "To intake manifold water outlet", "From heater control valve/diverter", and "copper/brass patch coupling" If you want to read the "Ultimate TBI" article I would suggest clicking on that link, not one below it.
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Instructions
By IROCZDave(iroczdave@aol.com)
This procedure is considered a "free modification."
After doing this myself on my engine (88' 350 TPI) I noticed a difference in the throttle responce right away, as far as horsepower, well I've heard you may get 5 additional HP out of this.
From what I have read GM incorperated this into the throttle body to prevent any kind of freezing of the TB valve in extreme cold conditions by having water from the cooling system run through it.
This heats up the throttle body quite a bit (just try touching the "Tuned Port Injection" plate after a long drive) and from what I understand there is a possibility that the incoming air may be warmed slightly.
You want the air going into your intake system as cool as possible I've heard, cooler air has more density, that's all I know.
There are two ways to do this, both have the same results, I will cover both in this article and you can decide which is to your liking.
NOTE: If you live in an area where extreme cold conditions exist I would not recommend this procedure.
The above diagram shows the "quick" method using a hard tube (approx. 5\8") to connect the existing hoses using clamps.
This takes little time to do, however if you are a stickler for details as I am this looks like a quicky job.
I simply got a new piece of 5/8" hose with a built in (90 degree) elbow, and ran it from the black plastic heater control valve/diverter and down to the intake manifold outlet this took about 10" of hose to do and looks much better!
NOTE: Place the elbow end of the new hose at the intake outlet.
Now after you have everything back togther take you car out for nice long drive and when you get back, open the hood and feel the TB, it's cool to the touch!
You can leave the water outlets on the TB open if you wish, or do what I did!
I got some new 5/8" hose and from the left side TB water outlet ran the hose over past the battery through the fender and down under the battery tray , attacthed a small pickup funnel to the end of the hose and mounted it to the fender support bracket facing forward for maximum air pick up.
Then another piece of 5\8" hose from the right side TB water outlet ran next to the upper radiator hose, down next to the radiator and under the car, pointing rearward.
What this does basically is "air cools" the TB housing while your driving, I don't have the air volume specs if there is any to take in the first place, it's just an idea I had and I decided to try it.
Remember I cannot prove if this really has any effect at all it's really just a little experiment of mine so if you choose feel free to try it!
Ultimate TBI
By Pablo Morales (olbap@bellsouth.net)
Aircleaner options, mods, and specifications
Stock Aircleaner
The stock aircleaner element can only effectively feed a 305 motor to 4500 rpm and that isnt even the greatest restriction, the single neck that is approximately 1" by 2" is, not enough flow for all but the weakest of 4 cylinders. With that said some modifications are still possible.
Remove air silencer ringthat is tack welded around the mouth of the aircleaner that encircles the throttle body. This requires air to enter directly from the top. Removal requires breaking the tack welds.
Removal of Thermac Device: The thermac is a temperature/vacuum controlled valve that directs heat from the exhaust manifold to the intake when it is below a certain temperature to decrease emmisions. The flap is a direct threat to intake airflow. To remove: The vacuum hose that connects to the aircleaner from the throttle body must be plugged. Remove the preheater duct hose that comes from the top of the exhaust manifold. It may be left at that however for added gains one may "Gut" the device by removing the flap, rod and plunger from the intake path. This requires a bit of ingenuity and a bit of a hack job. You will need to cover the hole on the bottom of the neck if you are ducting cooler air to the aircleaner.
Ram Air. The neck to the aircleaner has an opening that is 3" in diameter. Most hardware/home stores sell 3" diameter aluminum ducting typically used to expell hot clothing drier gasses. If your battery is on the passenger side of the car you are in luck. You will need to relocate your evaporative canister located in the front driver side engine compartment. I have moved it over to the framerail next to the radiator though removal of cruise control is neccesary. From there you will need to make a slightly larger than 3" hole in the sheet metal where the EVAP. canister used to sit. Run the aluminum ducting from the neck through the hole and affix it to the bottom of the car facing forward. At speeds this will create a ram air effect pushing cool air into the tubing.
Lid from 350 GM pickup truck Any aircleaner lid from any carbureted or TBI chevy truck from 1968 to current allows for the use of a taller aircleaner element. This will provide gains until the rpm at which the neck becomes the greatest restriction.
H.O. Dual Snorkel aircleaner
The H.O. dual snorkle air cleaner was available on L69 305 carbureted f-body engines up until '87. It features two air inlet necks on opposite sides which are larger than the single neck stock aircleaner. It uses the same filter element and can also use the same chevy truck lid to use a larger element.
Advantages: Cold air induction, more than twice the flow potential of the stock unit, and no hot underhood air getting sucked in.
Disadvantages: It may be of some difficulty to adapt to TBI cars with A.I.R. components in the way on the passenger side above valve cover. The necks are still a limiting factor to airflow, but this does outperform the stock air cleaner by far. Also, the snorkels do come with THERMAC valves, limiting airflow. Typical cost: From $20 (used), to $250 (new).
Aftermarket Open Element
Open element air cleaners are just that. The element is exposed on all sides to the open air. They are available from numerous companies in a variety of styles and prices.
To accomplish this mod the vacuum line to the thermac must be plugged, the IAT (Intake air temperature) sensor must be removed from the stock aircleaner. It can be relocated to the open element base but is not necessary. Power may be gained by relocating to a cool area. The breather may be left to the open air without worry. Any Drop aircleaner will work. All will give noticeable gains. Please see THE ULTIMATE below before you spend your cash.
Advantages: Almost unlimited flow potential. Very low price, very good horsepower to dollar ratio. Huge seat of the pants difference. Very easy mod to accomplish.
Disadvantages: Engine now takes in slightly hotter air allbeit more air. Non factory appearance.
The Ultimate
Take note of the gold iridite finish spacer ring on the TBI unit. This serves to lift the stock drop aircleaner so as to not interfere with the TBI components which surround it. Talk about compromises! GM used a spacer to raise the drop aircleaner! The spacer greatly limits flow since it forces air to flow only through the top of the TBI unit this causes the injectors over the TBI to be another flow restriction.
The solution for improvement:
A typical non drop aircleaner that is slightly clearanced for throttle linkage works perfectly as long as a larger 3" tall element is used. GREATLY improving flow not only with a larger element but by unshrouding the TB bores. A Double whammy! Look for the typical "Mr. Gasket" Non drop aircleaner sold at most autoparts stores. Remember you will need a larger element to keep the lid at the right height.
For even more flow
Try an Xstream aircleaner lid along with K&N filter. The Xstream lid makes the entire lid another filtering surface. The K&N filter flows more as well. For a ram effect you can go as far as a ram air hood or a cowl induction hood.
Reccomendations: Removal of the rear hood seal, this is an old-school hot-rodder tip to let some hot air out. *Warning* removal of hood seal may let some water in the engine compartment, and on the distributor, but I haven't had any problems with it so far.
****NOTE**** If your air cleaner housing rubs against the coil wires, I suggest adding a piece of cardboard to stop the rubbing, if these wires ground out, your car is screwed, big time. You will be stranded on the side of the road.
BWhahahahahahahaha rofl now this is entertainment
no coolant running through a TBI throttle body, sorry
thats only TPI cars
im closing this now
and please refrain from profanity and anti american remarks in the future. If you get us mad enough we might turn canada into a parking lot (and we can do this
)
no coolant running through a TBI throttle body, sorry
thats only TPI cars
im closing this now
and please refrain from profanity and anti american remarks in the future. If you get us mad enough we might turn canada into a parking lot (and we can do this
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