Safe what to nitrous.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Los Banos CA
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: stock
Safe way to nitrous.
Hey guys, was just curious as to what I would need to do to prepare my bone stock LO3 (about 36k miles on a gm crate) for a decent shot of nitrous 100-130. Just to give myself a fighting chance against some other cars. It is my daily driver so i would want to be as safe and reliable as possible. thanks guys.
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(sorry for misspelled thread name
) Last edited by RSL03; Dec 9, 2006 at 01:48 AM.
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
NGK TR6 plugs gapped to .035, good new wires, cap, and rotor button, 0 degrees timing, stong fuel pump. This should be safe at a 100 to 130 shot.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Colorado
Car: 1991 TransAm GTA 350
Engine: 350 SBC TPI
Transmission: 700R4
plug and play, if everything is in good workking order. No special accomodations required.
Last edited by TexasSilhouette; Dec 9, 2006 at 06:31 AM. Reason: corrected crappy typing
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
For saftey I would retard the timing a like 4* or so, other than that, just do the proper saftey stuff on the nitrous, window switch, and fuel pressure saftey switch. On a stock car, my biggest worry would be the fuel pump keeping up with the extra fuel needed.
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
stock TBI timing is 0, stock TBI fuel pumps ARE weak so I'de upgrade or at least make sure the one you have is healthy. Change the fuel filter that's important and cheap. I wouldn't hesitate to spray a stock L03 with a 130 shot. The heads are a little weak and the manifolds suck so you may run into some pumping losses with anything over that.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 310
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From: Colorado
Car: 1991 TransAm GTA 350
Engine: 350 SBC TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Dynotunenitrous makes a real neat device that watches your O2 voltage, if it starts to get lean for ANY reson, it kills the N2O. Cheap insurance.
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From: Kansas, where the wind howls
Car: 84 Z28 H.O. w/Megasquirt II
Engine: semi-stock L69
Transmission: T-5 non W/C
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open
Keep in mind a mis-fire will produce a dead lean signal from an o2. May cause inadvertant shut-offs with the o2 sensing switch.
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
Personal opinions are that with a nitrous kit simpler is better, a single hand operated switch with a good 30 amp BOSCH relay is about as fool proof as it gets. You can buy fancy window switches, o2 monitors, the ZEX insta a/f compensation box, and have that expensive stuff fail (as I've seen it do many times) or you can just be logical about spraying and have full control over it in the palm of your hand for 1/100th the price of the fancy setups. Not to say that all that stuff is worthless, it definetly has it's place especially in very large nitrous setups, but for anything under a 250 shot I say keep it simple and save your money for bottle refills.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 310
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From: Colorado
Car: 1991 TransAm GTA 350
Engine: 350 SBC TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I somewhat disagree, O2 monitors are cheap insurance agains the fluctuating pressures inherent in an N2O system. Not knowing the technical ability or comprehension on the audience, I favor the cheap insurance. Many folks running N2O don't understand it but enjoy it none the less. I want to be able to flip the switch and stomp it and know it's going to work, but safely. When I give a system to an owner, I can't evaluate their comprehension, I just know if it leans out and blows their intake plenum off, I'm not going to be their favorite person.
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