My frustrations here on my EGR problem have been well documented in the past couple of posts that I have made.Well I finally found the right egr valve to use with my headers 17113496 N and it has made no differance in my EGR issue.I have hooked up a scanner to the car and everything reads fine.I have also hooked up a vacuum pump to both the old and new valve and both have held vacuum.If you push on the diapham while the car is running it will stall out as expected.I replaced the egr solenoid about a month ago with no change as well.I don't know what else to do but disable the EGR through the chip.I have already contacted Brian at TBICHIPS for just a stock chip with EGR removed for 50 dollars.What else can I check to rid myself of this damn code 32? All the EGR passages are clean with nothing blocking them.Will someone PLEASE give me a clue on this?

 

i think i have replied to one of your other posts about this, but i don't remember if this was asked.
is the vacuum line going to the EGR solenoid hooked up to a ported vacuum source at the TBI? an intake manifold vacuum source won't work, there isn't enough vacuum under light acceleration to open the EGR valve.

 

there are a few things you have to look for, first of all did this start after changing some exhaust parts?... you are using a negative backpressure valve which need some backpressure in the exhaust to work properly... your egr should hold vacuum when the engine is off and bleed off while the engine is at idle, if not you have a problem there... you can also check your map sensor which is the one that senses and sends the signal for the egr, if you have to big of a cam your manifold vacuum will be too low, and when the egr opperates there will not be a big enough difference in vacuum for your map sensor to see.... you can start with that, if you need i might be able to send you some diag charts...

 

Denn the posts you responded to was when I asked which type of egr valve I should use.Yes there is a hose running from the front of the tbi to the egr solenoid.This is really driving me up the wall with all the pinging I've been getting on light acelleration.(spl?).It sounds like bottle caps in a glass jar.Old school I could deffinately use a guide to figure this out.

 

removing the EGR from the chip is unlikely to help with the pinging.

have you checked your timing? the outer ring on balancer could have slipped causing you to set the timing too high.
have you tried a different brand of gas? how about a higher grade?

 

timing is deadnuts zero with the esc unplugged about 14 or 16 with it plugged up.All I run is chevron 91 in my car.

 

did you check your knock sensor circuit, if you have a scanner, look for a signal and spark being retarded when you it above the sensor with a small hammer or screwdriver handle, on some application there is an esc module on the same bracket as your egr controller, it controls the advance, how hot is your engine running when it pings, does it do it when when the egr is unplugged???

 

It usually starts to ping when the car has been running for awhile.I haven't looked at my knock sensor lately,would it throw a code if it it went bad?One thing I did notice the other night was I was checking my wires in the dark and ofcourse they were arching,not as bad as last time but one thing I noticed was when I revved the engine up to about maybe 2200 or 2500 rpms I saw a strange spark like light coming from in front of my serpantine bracket just about where the smog pump used to be.As the rpms grew so did the light.almost half way across my serp belt.What could this be?A bad ground maybe? I checked the ground on the front of the engine and it seems good with no frayes and was tight to the block.Could this in addition to the egr cause the pinging to be louder than expected?

 

Like he said earlier, if you have a modded exhaust, the negative valve will need help to open, as it should, with less backpressure.

You will need to drill the vacuum port on the EGR valve to .020 to get a little more vacuum to assist opening of the valve. (where the rubber connection goes on)

 

First thing I'd do is hook the vacuum line to the EGR valve up to a vacuum gague with a long hose, duck tape the gague to the windshield (where you can see it while you drive) and see if the system is even applying vacuum to the valve. Just a quick drive around town should do it on a fully warmed up engine- you should see vacuum any time you open the throttle modestly while drving (won't work just free-revving in neutral). You might have replaced the valve and the solenoid but if there's a wiring or ECM problem it might never be openign the solenoid and applying vacuum to the valve.

 

does it do it when you unplug the egr valve?.... and what are the chances it's actualy a mechanical failure like a bearing on your serpentine set up?.... you said you saw sparks on the belt?????... idler pulley gone bad, maybe it sounds like detonation?... to start i would fix all the little problems, like wires that are no good, plugs, cap......

 

I just replaced the wires again (yeah another 100 dollars) this time I followed the directions exactly on how to cut them to size.(double crimp) It seemed to help as far as the whole arching issue.The cap and rotor are a month old.The plugs I replaced were fouled out due to being to cold and carboned out when I flushed the system with seafoam.So they are only 2 days old.I'll have to make a diagram on how the spark from the bracket is coming out so I can give you guys a better picture on what I was talking about.

 

are they coming out of the pulley?... and did you try to run the car with the egr unpluged?

 

I haven't had a chance to run the car with the EGR unplugged yet to day because I wasn't feeling well today.I will tomorrow as soon as I'm done with work.Here's a picture I took of were the spark is coming from.

 

i changed my computer and prom and it fixed my light problem.

 

Can't imagine what could possibly be sparking up in that area, other than the main ground strap, which you already checked. I'd get under there at night and watch it doing it while it's running. Maybe you've got a frayed wire intermittently grounding against something, although there aren't many wires in that area.

Arcing a power wire can cause all kinds of havoc with the computer. If you got sparks, you need to fix them before you start to diagnose computer-related problems.

 

Just remove it and put a plate over the manifold hole. I used to have that dam SES light come on all the time. So i got rid of all that stuff. EGR GONE, AIR system GONE. Light hasnt come back on yet. Using Stage 1 TBI chips.com chip.