That I just need a new IAC sensor? Isnt that the sensor that plugs into the bottom of the air cleaner assembly in the back? If so I think I may have damamged it when I installed an open element air cleaner and drilled a hole through that.

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89 camaro 305 tbi, flomaster 3 chamber cat back, gutted cat, Edlebrock TES Headers, Exhaust cutout, Edlebrock open element, and a 160 degree T-stat. 2 kicker comp 12"'s, polk for the rest. Phoenix gold xs2300 to subs, kicker impulse 404XI to 4 speakers, pioneer DEH- P7000R head unit, and finally a 12 disc changer. Full leather interior from http://www.MrMikes.com (its nice)

 

No, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve and unit is located on the throttle body unit itself. The sensor you're talking about that went to the air cleaner assembly is the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor.

However, after looking up a code 23 in my book, it says that relates to the M/C solenoid, which I have no idea what that is. A code 33 is the MAP sensor, and that code could be set by a faulty MAP sensor. If I were you, I'd check my codes again and make sure it's 23 and not 33. If you think you damaged it and a code suddenly appeared, then you probably did. Coincidences are rare when working on cars, at least in my opinion.

If it is damaged, just buy a new one. They're pretty cheap, under $20 if I remember.

If you really are having code 23, I can't help you

Jason

 

SEthirdgen.org technical data says:

"23 Manifold Air temperature sensor"

Someone has got to know what that is

 

That is the senser in your air cleaner .

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92RS LO3
ultimate TBI mods
open air element
3"cat back
posi with 3.42 gears

 

Man I'm sorry DTPMIKE, it is the IAT sensor, I don't know what I was thinking. I looked up the code in Chilton this time and it says that code IS for the IAT sensor according to Chilton. The first time I looked it up in Haynes, and I guess they're wrong. The Hayes and Chilton manuals aren't agreeing with each other.

Anyways, I've already done the open element swap and I replaced my IAT sensor. The part # was 25037313, that's for an 89 Camaro 305 w/ TBI ("E" engine).

I apologize again for telling you that was the MAP sensor, I don't know what I was thinking. But I double checked about the code I told you earlier and Haynes was wrong, Chilton seems to be right in this case.

Jason

[This message has been edited by 89BlwnRs (edited May 08, 2001).]

 

Well I jsut did some tests before I saw your posts. I disconnected the IAT and ran the car until it threw a code, then I checked and surely no new codes except 23. So I guess the IAT is damaged because when I am on the highway for a while it will come on, but that is the only time.

What exactly does the IAT do? Would it affect gas mileage?

 

THe IAT = Intake Air Temp. It measures the incoming air temp so the ECM can adjust fueling accordingly. It enables the ECM to adjust the fueling based on air temp. For example, hot air is less dense than cold and requires less fuel.

 

Did you get the IAT put in the new air cleaner? If you didn't and the sensor is setting in the engine bay where it can get really then it can also throw a code from beeing to hot to long.

 

I had the same problem, looked it up in haynes and it was a m/c solenoid. WTF?!? Looked it up at work, it was the air temp sensor. Checked it on the car, the sensor was unhooked-gee, go figure. Check the resistance of the sensor, it should be (correct me if I'm wrong, guys 4k or something like that, and should decrease as it get hotter.

 

I just bought the non drop Summit 14x3 air cleaner with the knock off K&N filter. The cost was $40. The Summit filter is identical to the K&N! Go figure.

Anyway, I'm heading to the track tonight to test the stock air cleaner/IAT sensor setup. I'll then replace the stock air cleaner with the open element and the IAT sensor with the 4.7k ohm resistor.

I'm curiouse to see the differnces/improvements!!

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89 Formula 305 TBI
160* stat, 200* fan switch, K&N, Headers, 3in Flowmaster (hollow cat) back, pullies, 1.6 full roller rockers, B&M trans cooler, home-made ram-air
3.73 Richmond gears and SLP Zexel Torsen Posi (MAY 01), Wonder Bar

 

You said the resistance should be 4.7k.Is that what the stock resistance should be or is that some kind of after market part.

 

That's not the resistance of the sensor, that's just the size of the resistor that you can put into the wiring connector for the IAT. It tricks the computer into thinking the air temp. is lower than it really is (I think 4.7K ohms equals 58*). It supposedly gives you a couple more HP, but it's not worth it.

 

Agreed. Just replace the sensor. It is easy to damage the tip of the sensor since it sticks out past the protective shell.

 

Me too! Please report back!

(still looking for a stock dual snorkle)

 

I dont care about tricking my computer. I want to know what resistance should the iat read stock.How do you tell if it is bad or if it is not making a connection to the computer.

 

I tried one of those resistors things on my Beemer. It defintley gave the car a bit more pick up from standstill but it looked crappy and it felt like the motor wasn't happy.
If your changing your sensor and cleaning the connections and all that don't forget to reset your ECM.

 

Dont replace teh sensor with a resister. The IAT effects the knock handling and depending on how its set up it may also remove fueling at cool temps.

You can check the IAT with a dvm. I can post a table with the resistance vs. temp later on.

 

Heres the table. Set your meter to the right resistance range, stick the probes in the end of the sensor, and measure.