Read me!! RELOCATED O2 SENSOR...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 26
From: Wesley Chapel, Florida
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: Dart SHP 406ci T88 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP 35 spline Ford 9" 3.50 gears
Read me!! RELOCATED O2 SENSOR...
I'm thinking about relocating my O2 sensor from the collector of the drivers side header to the point where both driver's and passenger side headers meet in the Y-pipe(I have the Edelbrock TES system) for more accurate O2 readings from both sides of the engine which will hopefully give me a better mixture. Has anyone done this before? Is it worth doing?
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92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
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92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
I have heard and read that the number 5 cylinder exhaust pipe just befor the collector is where you should put the O2 sensor. Thhey say that the number 5 cylinder runs the leanest, so you will dump more fuel.
Also just before the collector it will definitley be hot enough exhaust.
(just what I've heard)
Also just before the collector it will definitley be hot enough exhaust.
(just what I've heard)
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 26
From: Wesley Chapel, Florida
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: Dart SHP 406ci T88 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP 35 spline Ford 9" 3.50 gears
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jmp1999:
I have heard and read that the number 5 cylinder exhaust pipe just befor the collector is where you should put the O2 sensor. Thhey say that the number 5 cylinder runs the leanest, so you will dump more fuel.
Also just before the collector it will definitley be hot enough exhaust.
(just what I've heard) </font>
I have heard and read that the number 5 cylinder exhaust pipe just befor the collector is where you should put the O2 sensor. Thhey say that the number 5 cylinder runs the leanest, so you will dump more fuel.
Also just before the collector it will definitley be hot enough exhaust.
(just what I've heard) </font>
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92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
You can move it to the collector as long as you put in a heated one.
No, you cannot join two O2 sensors into one. They would cancel each other out and the ECM would see a flat line. I've been trying to find a way to get the ECM to use two O2 sensors but I dont think its possible with our computers.
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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
317 RWHP, 418 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
No, you cannot join two O2 sensors into one. They would cancel each other out and the ECM would see a flat line. I've been trying to find a way to get the ECM to use two O2 sensors but I dont think its possible with our computers.
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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
317 RWHP, 418 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 26
From: Wesley Chapel, Florida
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: Dart SHP 406ci T88 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP 35 spline Ford 9" 3.50 gears
I think I'll leave it the way it is. Thanks fot the input guys.
------------------
92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
------------------
92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 26
From: Wesley Chapel, Florida
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: Dart SHP 406ci T88 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP 35 spline Ford 9" 3.50 gears
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by pwdbychevy:
I think I'll leave it the way it is. Thanks for the input guys.
</font>
I think I'll leave it the way it is. Thanks for the input guys.
</font>
------------------
92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
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From: 600 yds out
Car: Bee-Bowdy
Engine: blowd tree-fity
Transmission: sebin hunnerd
Axle/Gears: fo-tins
It'll run with the O2 sensor in the Y-pipe, but as said before you NEED to use a 3-wire heater sensor.
There is really no difference in the operation, as far as I could tell. When my van was stock it was on the Y-pipe with a heated sensor, I moved it to the drivers side manifold because the ECM I use to run my 350 expects it to be there.
It acts funny on start-up. A heated O2 sensor takes about 10 seconds to fully warm up. A non-heated one takes a couple minutes so the ECM tries to go to closed loop but the CTS doesn't match. It makes for some wierd idling sometimes.
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'92 Astro 350 TBI Edelbrock intake, MSD 6AL, 3.42's, 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster 40 2 chamber, B&M 2nd stage shift kit, 255 60 R15 tires on AR-727's
There is really no difference in the operation, as far as I could tell. When my van was stock it was on the Y-pipe with a heated sensor, I moved it to the drivers side manifold because the ECM I use to run my 350 expects it to be there.
It acts funny on start-up. A heated O2 sensor takes about 10 seconds to fully warm up. A non-heated one takes a couple minutes so the ECM tries to go to closed loop but the CTS doesn't match. It makes for some wierd idling sometimes.
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'92 Astro 350 TBI Edelbrock intake, MSD 6AL, 3.42's, 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster 40 2 chamber, B&M 2nd stage shift kit, 255 60 R15 tires on AR-727's
the reading would be more accurate, but as you move it away from the motor you will affect it's heat up cycle. the sensor has an operating temp range, if it is further from the motor the exhaust temp will have dropped by the time it hits it the sensor. also the time it takes teh exhaust to get there(yes i know it is only a fraction of a second) will cause a delay in the reaction of the computer.
over all it is a good idea bad idea thing. the only way to find out if it works is to try it.
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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto.
14.209@95.46mph
Best 60' 1.917
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over all it is a good idea bad idea thing. the only way to find out if it works is to try it.
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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto.
14.209@95.46mph
Best 60' 1.917
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by pwdbychevy:
I'm thinking about relocating my O2 sensor from the collector of the drivers side header to the point where both driver's and passenger side headers meet in the Y-pipe(I have the Edelbrock TES system) for more accurate O2 readings from both sides of the engine which will hopefully give me a better mixture. Has anyone done this before? Is it worth doing?
</font>
I'm thinking about relocating my O2 sensor from the collector of the drivers side header to the point where both driver's and passenger side headers meet in the Y-pipe(I have the Edelbrock TES system) for more accurate O2 readings from both sides of the engine which will hopefully give me a better mixture. Has anyone done this before? Is it worth doing?
</font>
Worked fine for me.
There is a corection table for how long the ecm expects to see a change when it *tests* the O2, but the numbers seem to be sloppy.
The TBIs are real forgiving in the O2 transistional times.
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From: 600 yds out
Car: Bee-Bowdy
Engine: blowd tree-fity
Transmission: sebin hunnerd
Axle/Gears: fo-tins
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NJ SPEEDER:
the only way to find out if it works is to try it.
</font>
the only way to find out if it works is to try it.
</font>
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'92 Astro 350 TBI Edelbrock intake, MSD 6AL, 3.42's, 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster 40 2 chamber, B&M 2nd stage shift kit, 255 60 R15 tires on AR-727's
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 560
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 peg leg
I relocated mine to just behind the collector where the Y-pipe bolts to the header. It works great, but yes, it does idle strange sometimes. This could be due to something else. Oh, yeah, mine is a 4-wire heated sensor, too.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 26
From: Wesley Chapel, Florida
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: Dart SHP 406ci T88 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP 35 spline Ford 9" 3.50 gears
Did you notice a difference in fuel economy and power when you did that? How would you hook up the wires for the sensor? Hopefully the sensor comes with a diagram if its universal. What was the part number? Thanks.
------------------
92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
------------------
92' Camaro RS 305 TBI
Best 1/4 mile - 14.6 @ 96 mph w/NO NOS
Best 60' - 1.9 secs
Check it out
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=4860
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