Well I got my Holley TBI intake and it's not gonna work at all. The EGR isn't compatable, even the block off plate they provided doesn't fit. The kickdown cable bracket is off by about 1/2". Even if the EGR valve did fit, my IAC would hit it.

Those of you running carb manifolds, how did you work out the EGR and kickdown bracket??

Please help, I'm f*cked if this doesn't work and I'm already gonna lose like $30 for shipping and stuff.

 

its a truck intake, try using a truck EGR, not an f-body one. Almost eveyone that has tried to use this intake has run into trouble, that's why I never recomend it.

[This message has been edited by Tas (edited November 07, 2001).]

 

Yes, that EGR doesn't fit.

 

I think I remember someone talking about an EGR spacer. Would that solve your problem?

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options

 

You got that intake on yet Tas?

------------------
91 RS 5.0 TBI....LT4 cam....Edelbrock headers....3"Dynomax exhaust....5spd.... 3.08.....Ultimate tbi....afpr...ZR 255-50's...Koni's

 

not yet. I'm doing the headers, 3" cat, and 3" I pipe this week. Also going to try to get rid of some heater hoses. Before the intake I need to make an adapter.

------------------
-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options

 

Hey Astro Captin? How about some pics of your problem?

 

I have that intake, yes it is a biatch to install but heres what I did:

-Got a EGR off off a 1978 chevy truck (350), it is a direct fit onto the manifold.
-Removed the IAC, and built a custom block off for it, its kind of cool if you would like to know how I did it just ask. And it runs great without it, just give it a little gas when you start it.
-Customized and installed stock throttle plate, lengthed throttle cable and trans. kick down. This was very easy, I simply used zip ties.
-Installed heater hose, must be lengthened.
-Cut metal fuel lines, installed high pressure rubber. To fit it the rubber to the TB I left a little of the stock fuel line there and clapped to it. If you are using a holley TB like me you will need to buy adapters to fit the thread on the stock metal fuel lines.

If I remeber correctly everything else should bolt up, with little customizing. I had to use new flexable vacum line for everything.

Hope this helps.
Jordan

------------------
1990 Iroc
Canadian Iroc (305 TBI)
-14x3 open element, K&N
-Accel: Coil, Wires, Cap&Rotor
-B&M stage 2 shift Kit
- 4 255/50/ZR16 BFGoodrich Comp TA's
-Hypertech chip, low temp thermostat and fan switch
-1.6 ratio roller rockers
-3" exuast: High flow cat, meanstreak muffler, dual 2.5" outlets
-Holley projection Manifold
-670 Holley TBI.

 

You could also get Edelbrocks Adj. Throttle linkage plate and Holley's EGR adapter. Youll need the adapter for the EGR to clear the IAC ( I think thats the one that gets in the way).

EDIT: Your brake booster line WILL be relocated and replaced. Use the port on the runner behind the plenum. You can either use a full rubber hose meant for brakes or fab up another metal one.

------------------
89CamaroRS
Power Rating: 1.21 Jigowatts
Mods:Flux Capacitor
Future Plans: Time Travel

[This message has been edited by TriGenRS (edited November 07, 2001).]

 

YOU DID WHAT!!!!!. one, your car needs the iac, to run properly, or how it was designed. if gm didnt need it, they wouldnt have put it there. Yes, your car will run without it, but the iac isnt used only at idle. i think it would be a good idea if you read up on this.
two, ZIP TIES???? i wouldnt recomend that.
and cutting the metal fuel lines. Most people have no troubles here, just bending them a little bit, so...

Astro Captian, i hope you didnt follow this advice. i wouldnt recomend anybody doing any of those things, its simply rigged and gheto.

This is not a flame, I just dont want anybody else to follow in these steps.

 

I do not appreciate at all you calling my set up rigged or ghetto!!!

It is a very beautiful installation, I would suggest you do not make assumptions about my work, or how something that you have never done or seen works!

1. Stock fuel pressure will never exceed 20 psi. The fuel line I am running will take up to 120 psi. It is perfectly safe, and nicely routed. You CAN NOT simply bend the pipe, this is much more dangerous, it will in the very least kink the pipe, it more likely will create a weak spot, which could leak! You would have to bend the lines an incredible amount, and it would be a "Ghetto" job if you did that. Adding rubber lines also allows you to easily, and safely add a fuel pressure guage, as I did. Also I sugest you route them in the stock location, there is good reason GM put them there and for nothing else... they look good there.

2. No, the IAC will not effect the performance. YES, I reolize that it works all the time, and helps to adjust mixture and obviously idle speed. But the engine has other ways of dealing with fuel miixture. You will not gain or lose performance without it. ANd thankyou, I did research it before I removed it, I do not do trial and error! It will require more work on your part while the car is warming up. Also, I know that GM would not add anything that is not necessay, but what you need to do is look into why it is necessary. Some person, who does not know what they are doing, would hop onto the car and it would not start. GM can not produce a car that does this.

3. For the zip ties, large "industrial strength" ones have been used. their breaking point FAR exceeds any input that I could ever put on them. And if they break so what... Something else is wrong with your car to lock the throttle blades closed. And it is near impossible to get the force required through the gas pedal. You have very little leverage. Most likely you would be on the verge of also breaking other parts at that point.

-This is a very profesional installation, I didnot skimp anywhere, it was not that I was trying to save money, I was doind it right.

I hope you will reconsider your statement snflupigus. ANd Astro captian, I hope you this advice will help in your installation.

Sorry If I was a *** in this post, I was very hurt that some one would say that about work for which I am so proud.

Thankyou,
Jordan


------------------
1990 Iroc
Canadian Iroc (305 TBI)
-14x3 open element, K&N
-Accel: Coil, Wires, Cap&Rotor
-B&M stage 2 shift Kit
- 4 255/50/ZR16 BFGoodrich Comp TA's
-Hypertech chip, low temp thermostat and fan switch
-1.6 ratio roller rockers
-3" exuast: High flow cat, meanstreak muffler, dual 2.5" outlets
-Holley projection Manifold
-670 Holley TBI.

 

IrocJT:
Sorry but i still cannot accept the ZIP tie usage either. True, if they break all the car will do is slow to a stop. But if you want a properly running car, you just cant use zip ties. From the constant heat and cold waves, the plastic will stretch, lose strength, and become brittle. Your "linkage" will lose its trueness and your butterflies will slowly begin to not open all the way. You can call your setup beautiful... but its pretty clear that you didnt take the time to map out your problems. You simply used "brute strength methods" over doing it right. The fuel lines can be bent properly with line benders.

Please dont tell me that you call this "professional" and "didnot skimp" on the installation. Because (with the ties) you did.

Im not doubting you car knowledge but I am saying that you did shortcut your installation.

------------------
89CamaroRS
Power Rating: 1.21 Jigowatts
Mods:Flux Capacitor
Future Plans: Time Travel

 

Well, thanks for the posts. I'm making an EGR "relocator". Basically, I'm tapping two compression fittings into the block off plate they supplied (after making it fit). Then Autogon350 (TPI guy here) is making a block for me to bolt the EGR to, with compression fittings on the bottom of it. Then I'm going to connect the whole thing with hard metal lines. Should work nicely.

I wish I could get some pics. I had to reload my puter and haven't got around to loading the video capture stuff.

I got over the initial "motherfu**** this stupid a$$ thing doesn't fit anywhere!!" stage. I will say the Holley has huge runner compared to the Edelbrock, but I was disappointed that I had to use a hose to wash out all the casting flash and metal chips Holley left in there for me.

Can I use rubber fuel line on this TBI setup, or is that a big NO. Maybe the real thick stuff and two hose clamps on the cut-off ends? It would make things much simpler since my return line is already mangled from when I fit it to the Edelbrock intake. Much cheaper than steel braid and AN fittings.

As for the throttle cable, mine comes in from the front anyway so thats no big deal.
------------------
'92 Astro, GM crate 350, Performer TBI intake, MSD 6AL, 3.42's, 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster 40 2 chamber, B&M 2nd stage shift kit, 255 60 R15 tires on AR-727's, Polished & Bored TBI, Custom EPROM in progress


[This message has been edited by V8Astro Captain (edited November 07, 2001).]

 

I should have read you name more closely...





------------------
89CamaroRS
Power Rating: 1.21 Jigowatts
Mods:Flux Capacitor
Future Plans: Time Travel

 

Installation is coming soon. Can I use rubber fuel line with two clamps on either end?

 

Yes you can use rubber lines but I wouldn't make them more than 6" long. There is damn good reason why most tracks don't let you run more than x amount of rubber fuel line!
If you really need me to dig of some good reasons to back that up then e-mail me because it's off subject.
As for the EGR, please get some pictures, I'm really confused why it would hit the IAC. Why don't edelbrock manifolds have the same problem?
As for the ghetto rig stuff...so what?
Yeah it might be ghetto but it's your car, do what you want, take the risks, let everybody know that it works...SO WHAT IF IT'S GHETTO!
My throttle cable linkage is attached by a huge zip tie that spans a whopping 1/2" at most. I ran into the problem when I got my throttle bracket hooked up. The TV cable was fine, so was cruise control (yes I still have cruise and yes it still works), but the throttle was a 1/2" too short. I looked at adjusting the length at the pedal but that was more dangerous than using a small zip tie. I will agree, this isn't the best setup. But I didn't have much of a choice at the time. I just helped Brian Felts with his throttle hookup. He needed about an inch so we used some hardware and small metal strapping. Works great! I do need to make mine a little more perminant but figure this, if my car throttle breaks, at least I've got cruise control .
The only difference is I will admit, my temp solution is ghetto. Just like my damn problow air filter (what a POS!). I don't like either but I don't have a whole lot of options right now. Money is time and time is money, school takes up both. I have faith in my setup but I wouldn't dare tell somebody else to make it a perminant solution.
Good luck and please get some pictures up.

 

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSer.../FMFPTech.html

Avoid using rubber fuel lines, or use them sparingly, for two reasons. First, rubber is more resistant to the flow of fuel than any hard line. An actual pressure loss can be measured over distance. Second, for safety's sake, it's not a good idea to use rubber fuel line, especially when using a high pressure performance fuel pump.


------------------
89CamaroRS
Power Rating: 1.21 Jigowatts
Mods:Flux Capacitor
Future Plans: Time Travel

[This message has been edited by TriGenRS (edited November 08, 2001).]

 

The difference is that our EFI is a low pressure system. We're sub 20psi which is almost like having a carb pump.

 

Thats what I thought. I appreciate all the input.

I could use a little drop in fuel pressure anyway, maybe I'll do steel braid? That's expensive isn't it.