NotDadsW41

From www.diy-efi.org

GM TBI regulator P/N 17113186 is a direct bolt-on jobbie, and will give you about 18-20psig fuel pressure. Additionally, this
regulator has vacuum compensation capability. If you hook the included vac
port to manifold vacuum, then you'll get a part throttle fuel pressure decay of roughly 1psig per every 2"Hg manifold vacuum. This comes from certain marine and HT502 applications.

Just wondering if anyone is using this thing? I placed the order for one tonight and I'm going to try it on my 89 L05 9C1 Caprice.

Boy I screwed up that title didn't I? Can a person edit that after it's posted or what???

[This message has been edited by NotDadsW41 (edited June 22, 2001).]

NotDadsW41

I'll take no responses in 3 days as a big old No. HHmmm. Guess I'll be the first then??

kdrolt

Hi Cecil. We know each other from Bcar land. I put the vacuum compensated FPR up on the Bcar digest(s) after I posted the following here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/001593.html

You should talk to Jeff Bedosky directly,
mailto:wpgmedic@home.com since I've been discussing it with him.

You're going to have to revise the setup such that you get around 11.5 to 12 psi fuel pressure at idle and normal steady cruise (when you have 18 to 20" mercury vacuum) and that you have around 13.5 to 14 psi at WOT (zero vacuum). The 502 vacuum FPR (502vFPR) will run waaaay too rich at WOT (18 to 20 psi is too much), and it looks like it will be a bit too lean at good vacuum (idle, steady cruise) with only around 9 to 10 psi.

The DIY link mentions using the GM 502vFPR in series with an adjustable one, so that will allow you to trim the fuel pressure to the needs of the 350 LO5.

The ONLY other comment I can make it that it *may* be possible to modify the 502vFPR directly so that it directly has the psi range desired for a 9C1 LO5 with stock-type 65# injectors. If you have the 502vFPR in your hands, you'll be the first to know.

Go off forum for more discussion.
- Ken '94 9C1

NotDadsW41

Ken,

I think the numbers you give will work pretty good with my setup. Stock FP for my 89 was about 9-10psi. So if 502 model gives that we'll be fine.

I am right now running somewhere aound 15+ psi and my car is running pretty good at WOT. I do have the 93 9C1 exhaust and an open element air cleaner so I need the extra fuel.

It should be here this week and I hope to have it installed this weekend. I'll be sure and post results....

NotDadsW41

It's here boys!!!! I'll try and get it installed in the next couple of days....

NotDadsW41

Guess I'm the only one excited about this. It's installed. I did have to trim back that tube you see coming out of the regulator and I drilled a hole in the base of the air cleaner lid to run a vacuum line out the the base of the TBI unit. Without vacuum hooked up it sat right at 18psi at idle with no change based on vacuum. Hooked the vacuum line up to it and it idles with 10.5 psi. A blip of the throttle and it jumps to 16psi or so. Pretty cool. Car does seem to run smoother thru the RPM range. But it's hard to tell since I'm just using my SOTP meter. Plus it was 100+*F here today during my one and only drive with it. Tomorrow will bring Turbo-Link scanning on the way to work.... Stay tuned.

Tom 400 CFI

I'm excited about it. So excited in fact, that as soon as I saw your first post, I called my chevy dealer, got one, and installed it.

I love it. I set it so hte peak presure was the same as before, but at idle it is lower and it idles much smoother with my combo. For me it was a good, cheap mod. Thanks for motivating me!

[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited July 17, 2001).]

NotDadsW41

Boy I'm glad someone else appreciated it. I've been tinkering with mine to get things just the way I want them.

Did you have to modify yours at all to make it fit??

I switched springs tonight. Went from the spring that came in it to the stock L05 spring that I had. Droped the pressure to about 8psi at idle and 13 w/o any vacuum. I bumped the timing and my stock L05 seems to like ti much more. It runs smooth and hard all the way to redline now.

Tom 400 CFI

Yes, I did have to mod it a bit.

Since mine went on a Crossfire injected engine, the throttle bodies are different. I had to trim the "guide tabs" off both sides, and I had to bend the nipple about 90* so it points basically straight up.

I used my origonal spring right from the begining because I could tell the new one was stiffer, and I knew I didn't need that much force. I was right. I have the presure screw backed all the way off and I have 15 psi WOT, and about 10 at idle, which seems to be just what my engine likes. This is a good mod for my set up.

[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited July 17, 2001).]

Keith5

This is the first I've seen of this post. How much was that regulator?

Edit: www.gmpartsdirect.com shows about $41 dollars for that part number. Is this too good to be true? How do the other companies sell static fpr's for the same or more amount of money?

If any of you who have used this could post some numbers like pickup in et's/mph in the quarter, or fuel mileage numbers I would grealy appreciate it.

------------------
1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula LO3 Auto
-180 degree stat
-Hooker Cat-Back
-velcro t-top bag
-Wonder Bar from my IROC
Waiting for install: Open element 14x3, 95 vette lt1 cam

*****Possible future mods*****
4th gen seats, fiberglass spoiler, rear disc, 3.42, torsen(posi), Edlebrock Performer TBI intake, headers, y-pipe and cat, afpr

1985 IROC-Z, TPI Auto
-Accel Super Coil
engine and tranny overhauls coming this summer


http://www.geocities.com/krt80/

[This message has been edited by Keith5 (edited July 17, 2001).]

NotDadsW41

I haven't track tested my car with it yet. Just trying to work some of the bugs out right now. I ran one tank thru with the 18psi spring in it and didn't see much difference in mileage. Of course when I took a plug out last night to check them(before swapping springs), it was pretty wet with fuel.

Right now I'm seeing improved idle and smoothness across the RPm range during WOT runs.

I'm looking for a G-tech to play with now.

Tom 400 CFI

Pretty much what he said.

I went to the track last Wed., but got rained out. I haven't finished a full tank yet so I can't compare milage, but really, I want to drive it through a full tank all on the highway to really check it. That is the most accurate IMO.

The primary reason why I installed it was for better drivability, and I got that. I don't really expect an improved 1/4 mi time since I previously had the fuel presure optimised for WOT. This resulted in a lopey idle and high levels of HC emmissions (at idle). The VRFPR lowered my idle FP, and with the leaner mixture, it idles smoother.

snflupigus

would this make it harder or easier, in your opinions, to tune a custom chip?

NotDadsW41

HHHmmmm.. Good question Snuf. Could go either way. I don't have any experience doing that sort of thing but I'll throw my $.02 out anyway. I think easier. With this you don't have to adjust the enrichment tables/injector pulse width etc... Just the timing curve I'd think.

We'll see what the PROM burners have to say....

Crack Monkey

Very nice - I'll probably be trying this is once I start modding my car.

Dan W

This is not going to eliminate tuning from the equation.

The benefit I see is the ability to run an injector that acts bigger at wot... the ability to support over 450hp with a pair of injectors that could cause idle problems if FP was turned up at idle.

------------------
1988 T/A,
9" Ford, 3.50 gears, Auburn posi, 700r4 -w- 2100 converter, 360ci, 9.8:1 cr,
AFR 195 Heads, Weiand #7525 intake, Lunati roller 219/227, .479/.480, 112 LSA
GM big block 2bbl TBI on truck 7747 computer

[This message has been edited by Dan W (edited July 19, 2001).]

snflupigus

so, say. 80pph injectors running at 8psi at idle maybe, could go to what psi with 0 vacuum, or wot. slow down the pulse width at idle too, and you could get maybe 17psi at wot with 80pph's and idle nicely? hmmmmm...

yes or no. this could eliminate the problem of having an injector too large to meter fuel correctly at idle. watcha thinkin?

Tom 400 CFI

What I was thinking, was this;

With my increased displacement, my engine is inhaling more air. With the ported intake, and the much longer-than-stock-duration cam, it is raises the air flow and fuel demand more at WOT, and decreases the demand (from overlap) at idle. I met the WOT fuel demand by installing MSD 75 lb/hr injectors, and raising the FP to 15 psi. But then my idle was slightly lopey. I thought it was acceptable, untill I saw this post and I knew right away that this mod would help MY engine. I don't think it would help a stock engine at all. But with any engine that has been modified to increase air flow, (at higher RPM) the fuel flow will need to be increased as well. With out getting into PROM burning, the easiest way to do this is by increasing the FP, which gives us a rich idle. Which brings us to the practical aplication of the VRFPR.

FastBroker

I guess it'll work but just never work very WELL. It is a way to avoid getting a proper PROM, I guess, but I would always wonder "what if???". Doing what you did surely will not get you the driveability, power and mileage that a correct PROM will get you, but you gotta do what you feel comfortable with and have the tools/time for...

Dan W

In theory snuf, thats what I'm talking about. But I think I'd apply it to motors that need more fuel than the 90# units can supply. Supposedly you can tune large injectors up to 90 or so # before problems with idle occur. So I'd see this mod as something to be done in combos that need more fuel than that... 2-90# injectors support 360 hp + or - a little depending on the motor at their rated pressure. So in higher HP combos it makes the fuel available where you need it.

When used in an application other than this, its a band aid... kind of like using a FMU with a super charger. Sure you can probably get better balance between driveability and power on a mismatched injector... but below 350 hp, there is a better way. Get the tools and learn to tune. Accept no substitutes.

NotDadsW41

While the benefits of using this on a high HP motor have yet to be tapped. I can tell you that it does work will on my basically stock L05.

I went from using a JET fpr with the FP cranked up to get the best WOT performance that I could. But this made the car run really rich at any other point. Using this vac-fpr I get the benefits of turning up the FP for WOT performance but my idle and part throttle response are still good.

Further trick I have in mind for this thing. My next plan is to hook up an EGR solenoid inline with the vacuum line and hook it to a switch of some kind. What this will do is allow the vacuum to adjust the FP most of the time. Then when the switch is flipped it will stop all vacuum and drive the FP even higher than it would be with vacuum attached at WOT. The switch could even be a micro switch hooked up to the throttle linkage much like a NOS system. Hmmm. Maybe it would work well in conjuction with one of those too.....

4-bolt

Could you guys running this FPR list your mods? Are all of you guys running 305s? My truck info is in my sig. Do you think I'd need to replace the spring with my stock spring. Not that it is a hard thing to do. I don't know what size injectors I have, could someone help me out if they know the stock injector size for TBI 350 trucks? Also, how much did you advance your timing?

I know that's alot of questions, just trying to gain some ground to make a decision. I think this would be the way to go, because the FP could be changed as mods are done to compensate.

------------------
'87 Silverado
350 4 bolt main bore .040 over
TB Injected
Ported and Polished heads
Comp cams 268h cam and top end
Flowtech headers
3.73s on Detroit locker

snflupigus

i would assume your injectors are around 55 pounds per hour. timing is vehicle specific, trial and error, sort of thing. i dont know if the new one comes with a spring or not, but if it did, i would try both just to see for myself if there were differences.

i think it would equally well on either a 305 of 350

NotDadsW41

My mods are pretty simple. Car is an 89 9C1 Caprice with L05. Stock + open element air cleaner and 93 9C1 exhaust. Timing is +4 BTDC.

Tom 400 CFI

My mods are in my sig.

Just an FYI, I drove to Denver and back this weekend, and got 24.5, 24.2, 24.6, and 24.5 mpg in that order. That is a solid 2 mpg improvement over the stock FPR.

------------------
'83 Trans Am: 400 CID oil burning junkyard long block, 224/234 crane cam, Summit aluminum roller rockers, hand ported intake, home bored 2.09" (53mm) throttle bodies, MSD 454 injectors(75 lb/hr), Holley 255LPH fuel pump, custum modded FPR, Edelbrock TES headers, SLP 3" stainless steel cat back, stock ECM & chip. Borg/Warner T-5 World Class, 12" Corvette rotors and clipers, GTA 16" wheels, South Side Machine subframe connectors, 1LE sway bars, 3.45 ring and pinion, Alpine sound.
Best E.T. 13.532
Best MPH 102.24

JRoy91RS

Hey guys. I've been watching this post very closely, thinking seriously about buying this FPR. Will it bolt right up to the stock TB? What about running a vacuum line to the front of the TB from the FPR? Since I have open element, one of those vacuum outlets is plugged. Would this work? It seems like the consensus is to stay with the smaller spring? What sort of results did you have with the stiffer one? Did you have to adjust the TPS at all? Thanks guys.

JRoy91RS

BTW, my engine is definitely NOT stock. I am running a roller 355 480/480 2.02/1.60 heads, stock TB, and 65# injectors. It sounds like this FPR would be a great 'band-aid' for my application before I get prom-burning down better. Oh, and if anyone knows someone who has or can burn a chip for my application, I'd appreciate it. I'm running the Hypertech thermomaster for the caprice cop car.

NotDadsW41

I ran my vacuum line from a spare port on my TBI that was there after I switched to an open element. I did have to drill a hole in the base of the air cleaner lid to make it work. My second thought is to bend some brake line and use only rubber at the points where it needs to attach.

Keith5

So those that have this. Do you recommend it for modifications of an open element and above? By next spring I should be ready to put an edelbrock manifold, lt1 cam, and headers on. When I do all that do you think this regulator would workout better than an adjustable one?

------------------
1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula LO3/700R4
-180 degree stat, Hooker Cat-Back, Wonder Bar
Waiting for install: Open element 14x3, 95 vette LT1 cam
**Coming Sometime**
4th gen seats, 3.42/torsen(posi), Edlebrock Performer TBI intake, headers, y-pipe and cat, afpr
http://www.geocities.com/krt80/

Tom 400 CFI

Keith, I think you would definitely benefit from the VRFPR AFTER your proposed mods. I don't know about w/ the open air since I didn't do the mod when my car was near stock form. Notdads can answere that better than I.

BTW the VRFPR IS also adjustable. If you put it on and didn't like it with your stockish engine, just disconnect and plug the vacuum reference line, and adjust it to your current (or optimal) setting, and it will function exactly like your current regualtor.

snflupigus

anybody want to do a group purchase on these. im having my parts department order one for me, but if more people want em, email me. snflupigus@aol.com

he told me 40$ for the one. thats not cost. actually its like the used car service price. i wont be making any money off these personally, but the dealership will. so.... if i can get some more people maybe i can talk my stepdad into dropping their price closer to their cost.

snflupigus

nevermind on the gp. gmparts direct is selling at dealer cost because they do so much volume, so... im actually paying more for the damn thing thru my own dealership ordering from gm themselves. gm parts direct is actually a dealer that has licensed gms name, read the bottom disclamer. so, im a 45$ on those, while they are at 41 somethin. o well. guess thats how business works.

snflupigus

posted here as well as other thread.

what are they chargin for shipping on those vafpr's? from gmpartsdirect.com which btw is not owned by gm. i am just wondering, i just bought one at cost thru my family's dealership and it was 45. partsdirect has em at 41, but are they charging like 10$ shipping or somethin?

btw, took the vafpr apart, the inner disc on the diaphram has a higher ridge, the spring is MUCH thicker and shorter, stronger. and instead of having the cone with a notch in it, its just a disc with an indendation for the other side of the spring. it is adjustable from the factory, but you need one of those little hex wrenches with a hole in the center. and wtf is with were they put the vacuum tube, anybody got ideas on how to rotate it and resolder/weld?

anybody got more updates on this thing? use on stock 305? how is everybody who has done it's car runnin?

[This message has been edited by snflupigus (edited August 23, 2001).]

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Close enough. $9.95 S&H. Mine will arrive in 5 days. I guess you all ran them out of stock.

------------------
90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

NotDadsW41

My L05 Caprice is running with one right now. I put my original spring in as the one that comes with the vFPR is really stiff and will cause the car to run WAY rich. 18psi on a stock motor is just too high.

The keyed torx bit you talk about is not needed. Just take a little screwdriver and break that tab off from in the center. Then you can use a standard torx bit to adjust it.

On the vacuum tube, I just cut it off so that all I have left is what comes straight out from the can. I'm running a 7/32 vacuum line thru a hole in the base of my air cleaner to the port that was unused when I took off the stock air cleaner with thermac.

I intend to take some brake line and bend a hard line to run to this with only rubber at the points where it mounts to the vFPR and the TBI body.

BTW, I've adjusted my FP to be about 9.5 psi at idle, it jumps to 13psi w/o vacuum. The problem I have is that my stock spring seems to be failing. What I'm seeing is the FP down around 7.5 if the car is good and hot. Example, outside temp is 100*F, start the car after it's been sitting at work for 8+ hours, FP is 9.5psi, drive home some 25+ miles with the AC on, check FP at idle in the driveway, 7.5 and bouncing. Fuel pump is new so I know it's not that. I think the spring is fatiguing from heat soak. In other words, the engine gets hot and the spring get soft, thus the FP drops. Thoughts???

kdrolt

Cecil (NotDad's..), I doubt that heat soak can cause a temporary problem in a metal spring... unless the spring is bimetallic and designed to work that way. Springs lose their temper from corrosion, heat, and work cycles, but when they lose it, it's a permanent loss.

If the FP drops when the engine is hot, there are several things that come to mind:

1. partial vapor lock (fuel lines too hot, bubble forms within them). You could try shielding both the fuel lines and the TBI itself (a heat shield bolted gasket-style between the TBI and the intake).

Does this only happen in brutally hot weather? Or in any hot weather?

2. Are the fuel lines rubber hose? Are they old rubber hose(s)? Rubber gets more pliable when it gets hot, so that could cause a reduction in FP with heat, because the hose will expand.

3. Got plenty of voltage MEASURED AT THE FUEL PUMP? Is the line loss small? If you run the AC in really hot weather (likely), then you might not be putting out as much amps from the alternator at low speeds and idle (tired alternator), and that might lead to less current, as well as the voltage drop, to the fuel pump. The pump may be new, but it can only pump as well as the electricity provided to it.

On the question of the vacuum line, Cecil's pictures suggest (and I think Tom already did it) that the entire unit can be taken apart and put back together with the vac line turned 180-deg from stock (pointing outwards). I think some minor grinding was needed to do this, but it otherwise looks like it will work.

FWIW, I mentioned the used of an orifice restrictor in the vacuum line a long time ago (May this year?). It helps delay the increase in FP which is appropriate when you go WOT, because the engine can't use all that fuel until the rpms are high; the converse is also true when you get off the throttle after WOT. The engine is still at high rpm and you don't want to go lean at the end of a run -- you want the fuel pressure to slowly back down. So the orifice mounted within the vacuum line is still a good idea.

FYI. - Ken

NotDadsW41

Ken,

It happens anytime the car is good and hot. We've been over 100*F quite a bit here recently. But it happened on my trip to Indy too. It wasn't all that hot for most of the trip but yes we were running the AC. I would get a code 44, lean at the O2, when I took the car off cruise and let it coast, like for an off ramp from the interstate.

1. The vapor lock is a possibility I guess.

2.The only rubber lines are near the tank and about a foot up near the passenger side of the engine. The rest are steel lines.

3. Haven't checked that yet. I guess the alternator could be tired. But is was a brand new, not rebuilt, AC-Delco unit less than 30k miles ago.

I did install a restrictor per our off-line conversations. I took a piece of aluminum rod 7/32" ID and slopped some JB weld into one end. Then I drilled a very small hole thru the JB weld.

Could it be heat soak actually effecting my gauge and nothing else??? My gauge is a liquid filled unit from Summit that is mounted in the fuel line right about the intake manifold. I guess the liquid would le tthings move easier once it was hot, right?

I am sitting on another spring from a 90 truck TBI unit that I want to install and see what happens. If that doesn't work I might have to to the 18psi spring and start trimming it...




------------------
CD Smalley [URL=http://notdadsw41.home.att.net]
1991 Quad442 Calais W41 - #142 of 204
1992 Astro
1989 Caprice 9C1
1986 Caprice Classic

snflupigus

is there enough vacuum without a hose? That tube is pointed directly at the injector for a reason maybe, maybe its supposed to get its vacuum signal right there, but it wouldnt be much at all would it. hmm? I just dont understand why the designed it like that. As for flipping it around, you would have to grind the cup's plate a little bit, as well as right into your return line on the top of the pod. i think hacking it right at the elbow is best, but im sure you could grind it out, rotate it 90 to point towards the firewall, and then re-jbweld it or something.

the spring in there is hard thats for sure. i didnt know it would yeild that high of a pressure, wow. I think ill let you guys play with it some more before i put it on my now stock 305.

NotDadsW41

It won't get enough vacuum just like it sits. I tried it. It really does need a line running to it. I just cut off a bit of that tube, to the point that what was left was straight.

The spring that comes with it is VERY stiff. You can use your stock L03 spring in it w/o problems. I'm using my stock L05 spring. Come on snuf!! Live on the edge!!!

snflupigus

you think they intended it to draw its vacuum from there though? But its just not right with our ap?

o what the heck, ill give it a try.

Tom 400 CFI

Snuf, or anyone,



There are some pics of what I did on my car. Greanted the TB's are different, but what I did will work fine on yours too. I heated the vacuum nipple w/a propane torch (go easy, it heats up quick) an bent it to the desired position. Easy.

I ran the vacuum line to a MANIFOLD vacuum port. You wan manifold vacuum -not ported vacuum or any other vacuum source.

I used my original spring too. the one that came w/ the unit was too stiff.

BTW remember that if you don't like the mod, just unplug and cap the vac line and it will perform just as if you had never done the mod.

[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited August 25, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited August 25, 2001).]

NotDadsW41

What??? I'm running to a port on the front side of my TBI. Are you saying that I don't want that????



------------------
CD Smalley [URL=http://notdadsw41.home.att.net]
1991 Quad442 Calais W41 - #142 of 204
1992 Astro
1989 Caprice 9C1
1986 Caprice Classic

steve8586iroc

Manifold vacuum is highest at idle and lowest at wot, ported vacuum is lowest at idle and highest at wot. My understanding of the vafpr is that it will have the lowest fp at idle(highest vacuum)and highest(lowest vacuum)at wot. Is this correct or am I missing something?

Steve

Tom 400 CFI

W41, I'm not sure if the port you hooked to is correct or not...I'm not familiar with which port does what on your 2 bbl TB. You need to check your port w/a vac gauge and see if you are getting manifold vacuum.

Steven, You are mostly correct, but one change. Ported vacuum is taken from the edge of the throttle plate, just above the closed (idle) position. Therefore, ported vacuum is highest at part throttle (cruising throttle setting). On the ported vacuum port, there is NO vacuum at idle, and none from about half throttle on up. That is why older engines have the vacuum advance hooked up to the ported vacuum port -to get maximum advance at part throttle cruising speeds for fuel economy.

NotDadsW41

Tom,

After reading your description I must have it right. If I was on a ported vacuum I'd have none at idle. Thus I would see higher FP. Since I have vacuum there and it make the FP drop when I hook it up I must have manifold vacuum. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was starting to think I had it hooked up wrong.

Cecil

snflupigus

for simplification.

low vacuum = spring takes over more, closes off return line more and boost fuel pressure because less gas can get back to the tank.

high vacuum = vacuum is helping open the port going back to the tank, allowing pressure to stay low.

you want high vacuum at idle, so pressure is low.
you want low to NO vacuum at WOT for highest fuel pressure the vacuum adjustable fuel pressure regulator can go to, by your manual setting.

Just a reiteration for those who got lost reading the last few posts.

btw, on the front of the 2bbl tbi. the very bottom center nipple has ported vacuum from both barrels, the far right (on 454 only) has a larger ported vacuum hole. on the small block tbi, the far right is a manifold vaccum port. all the rest are manifold. i think the bottom center is for cruise control if i remember right, its the only one that is ported vacuum.


[This message has been edited by snflupigus (edited August 26, 2001).]

steve8586iroc

Tom, thanks also for clearing up the ported vacuum thing for me as well.

Steve

Tom 400 CFI

No problem guys.

I hope who ever tries this mod has success. I'm still very pleased with the improved driveabiliy. Good luck!

Tom 400 CFI

Just an FYI for the general group on this "mod". I have seen a aolid 3 mpg increase in fuel economy with the VRFPR. KEEP IN MIND MY COMBO. Not everyone will see the same benefits, but I did want to share this info with everyone.

I check my fuel milage very carfully, and for comparisons and analyisis, I use road trips. I had been getting about 22mpg ever since I put in the 400 last year. I drove to Denver a month ago and pulled 24.5 mpg going out and coming back. Then this past sunday, I drove down to Arches National Park, and pulled down 25.5 mpg!! Needles to say I was pretty happy about that. Esspecially with 400 cubes.

So, I just wanted to keep you all informed on the results of this little mod.

------------------
'83 Trans Am: 400 CID oil burning junkyard long block, 224/234 crane cam, Summit aluminum roller rockers, hand ported intake, home bored 2.09" (53mm) throttle bodies, MSD 454 injectors(75 lb/hr), Holley 255LPH fuel pump, custum modded FPR, Edelbrock TES headers, SLP 3" stainless steel cat back, stock ECM & chip. Borg/Warner T-5 World Class, 12" Corvette rotors and clipers, GTA 16" wheels, South Side Machine subframe connectors, 1LE sway bars, 3.45 ring and pinion, Alpine sound.
Best E.T. 13.532
Best MPH 102.24

RyanSS

Damn dude, that's really good MPG, especially with a 400ci. I am hoping for 20 with the 350 I'm building.

------------------
89 RS parts car

Daily driver 91 RS auto LO3 63k

New project- 89 Formula 350 WS6
383 or 400 to come!