Ok, so I got my car out here in Hawaii i've been driving it around I've already put like 1,000 miles on it. Ran fine, occasionally overheating, but this is normal, and lately it hasn't gotten to that point of over heating. Drove it to work today, totally fine. No problems at ALL. Get out of work, and start it up, starts fine, again, no problems. Drive out the gate. Wait at the stop light, still good. Drive down the road, 2 minutes later, I have to come to a yield, it hesitates, kind of weird, not sure what it was, but I shut off the radio to listen to the car fully. Went back to normal. Driving about a half mile or so, another stop light. This time I had to actually stop. Engine idled VERY rough, then died. At the green I tried a few times to get it started, and it was very hard. Kept turning ovev, but would sputter, and keep turning over, finally caught and I was able to get across the road. Finally died. Well, I waited a little bit, because now I'm off of the road, and I can get it to rest a minute. I try to start it again, took even longer, had to throw it in gear (auto) while turning it over, and it finally went. Drove all the way up the hill, didn't stop once, kept going, across the bridge, started up the hill, had to tap the break so not to bump the guy in front of me, and BAM!, dead. So I pulled over, tried to start it a few more times, got it kind of rough idling, few more feet and it stalled again. All these times I'm IN GEAR, and it's an automatic, so WHY is it stalling?? My only guesses running through my head at that time were gas related:
Fuel filter clogged,
Fuel pump sh*ting the bed,
But, why when you tap the brakes would it die faster?
Because when I had to start it I had to let my foot off the brake for it to catch a little bit. Brake depressed, just turning over.
I'm not really sure. Like I said, I've drove this car fine for close to 1,000 miles, and this is the first it's ever happened.

 

Ok, so I think after this post, it will alleviate a few possibilities. But, I still hope someone has some ideas. I got it to run today, took a little while. After checking to see if the fuel pump came on, we had spark, fuel was getting to the throttle body, and none of the fuses were blown, checking the pins on the ditributor cap, we put it all back together, and she took a little bit, but it fired up, and idled. Pretty good for the most part, but occasional sputter. I backed up in the parking lot, and came forward a few times with different variations. First I tried it quickly, and it wanted to die. Then I tried it very slowly, and it ran pretty well, again a little sputter, but managable. Third time, slow at first, then quickly and it almost died. Foot off gas, came back to normal. So, I'm still thinking fuel somewhere. My first step is to replace the fuel filter. At the very least, it might not change it, but I'll know it's new, and it will take out another possibility. I also want to pressure test it.
Other than this, anything run through anyones mind? I mean this came on very suddenly. Like I said before, car ran like a champ before this happened. And it's been in my family for 8 years, so theres nothing "rigged" on it.

 

You need to list your rides details - year, model, engine, etc.

By the looks of it - fuel starvation. Check Fuel pressure.

//RF

 

92 Camaro RS 305 TBI, Automatic, everything is stock on it. And yeah, that's the only thing going through my head. It's not getting enough fuel when it needs it.

 

Try using a volt meter to test voltage at the battery before start and after, V reading should be 12.4-12.6 before you start and cold, with car on re-check voltage at battery and on hot terminal on alternator. V shold be between 13-14.8ish. Hitting the brakes could cause a Voltage/Amp surge causing stall with a bad alternator condition. fuel filter, try about 4 oz. of marvel mystery oil, to see if this changes symptoms.or vacuume leak in manifold/brake booster, but that feels unlikley. best guess

 

As RF said, it sounds like a fuel issue to me also. I'm thinking it's either a fuel pump, a bad map sensor or a vacuue leak.

1. I would test your fuel pump for the correct pressure...11 or so psi.

2. I would test your MAP sensor....applying the brakes affects manifold vacuume...The ecm calculates how much fuel is needed based on this MAP calculation.

3. If you have checked both items and it's still not right, I would look at all vacuume lines...hoses and connections.

HTH, Brandon

 

Hey guys, thanks for the help. I have been working 12 hr shifts last few days. I got everyday off this coming week except for wed, thurs. So I'll run through these things. I appreciate all of the help. I love my car. Just bought it off of my mom, we've had it 8 years in our family, so it's my turn. I'm just trying to stay ahead of it, by replacing parts before I HAVE to replace them. Looks like it got me on this one. But thanks, I hope to have her running well again so I can keep saving for the new engine.

 

Once underway the torque converter can lockup effectivly acting like a standard transmision. When you tap the brakes it unlocks the conveter letting the engine die. When it starts hesitating try mashing the gas if it instantly dies then this is a pretty good indication that the fuel pump is dead.

 

You can rent the guage from most auto parts stores too.

Do a search on testing the map sensor

You can find vacuume leaks many ways..Running a propane torch (unlit of coarse) is one of them. With the engine idling direct the propane torch at each vacuume connection...If the idle changes theres your source.

Good luck.

P.S. You may want to check for the map and vacuume leaks first.

 

Ok, so this is where I'm at. I had bought some spark plugs, a new distributer cap, and rotor, and fuel filter. I've installed all of these. Car didn't run after fuel filter, but did after dist. cap/rotor and spark plugs. It started right up. Didn't run too bad, so I thought I would take it out. Got out the gate of base just fine, no hesitation at all. So then I matted it. Yup, cut out again. So it looks like I'm probably dealin with the pump now huh?? I also have a ignition coil that I just bought. I want to install it, but it's got rivets, and I don't have the tools to replace this from where I'm at on base. Could it also be the ignition coil that would make it run bad under acceleration? Because as soon as it cut out, I returned to base, and let it sit for a minute. It idled fine.
I've yet to pressure test the fuel. I don't have access to these pressure and sensor testers. Our parts store out here in Hawaii is retarded and you can only rent their tools if your using them in the parking lot, which makes no sense to me.
There's the latest update. Lay it on me. :-D Thanks again guys.

 

Not charging ( low system volts ), coil ( weak spark ) fuel pump/filters/screens.
Pretty much in that order is what I'd be checking.

 

It's got a brand new battery, and it seems to hold charge. I mean, it had only been hooked up for 15 minutes or less before I took it for a spin. Wouldn't that eliminate the first part? (low system volts) And yeah, I need to change that ignition coil. That's a pretty important check. Especially since I already own it. It won't be any additional money out of my pocket.

 

Ok, just a closure to this. (Well, as far as I know.) I replaced the ignition coil, those brackets that are riveted on SUCK!!!. They were a PITA to file down and break loose. Now that the new Iggy coil is on there, I took it for spin just now and had no hesitation what-so-ever.
I went down the hill, slow then accelerated hard, no problem, came up, gave it gas, let off, gas let off, thinkin it would cause it to over accel and cut out, but it didn't. So as far as I can tell, it was a combination of the plugs, distributor cap/rotor, or the ignition coil. Now, I think because I tried starting it so many damn times, my starter sounds a little funky when I start it up. Don't know how to describe it, but it's different than normal. Thanks for the ideas. I wish I had access to the tools to try those sensors. I basically was just hoping that wasn't the problem. My next steps were taking it to the garage and testing the fuel pump. Which I may still do just for piece of mind, while I order another one. Thanks again. I know if it acts up again, what to check next.